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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bought all my stereo equipment in 2002. Can you believe I've been waiting this long to install it!!! Hahaha.. crazy. Finally stars aligned and found a weekend to do the job. Anyway, running REAL speaker wire through the front doors of the 5g has always been a daunting task. Various methods out there:

1. Don't do it: tap stock wires. Not an option for me, since running 200W each to the front speakers.
2. Drill through foot board area: unsightly, not a very clean install, quick and dirty.
3. The Molex thing: the NTPOG way, drill through Molex connectors to run your own wire, but maybe 14 AWG at best, and a royal pain. Risky.


I think what's below is a clean and easy way. Allowed me to run 12AWG twisted pair wire with thick insulation, measuring about 5/16" diameter.


Ok, here's the target. Need to run wire from cabin into door through this area. You can see the rubber boot through which the stock wires run:


Problem is where to drill hole. Very difficult to fit even a right angle drill between door jam and door. I found it impossible, actually. So, we're going to drill from inside the door instead, here:


There's the infamous Molex connector. We can leave that alone. Mark out a spot just above it with your Sharpie:


You'll need the following: standard drill, Flex-a-bit extension, and hex shank drillbit set:


Flex-a-bit is really a life saver. But be careful, can't take to much torque or will break and unravel. Went through 3 of these trying to enlarge the hole to 1/2". When you get to 3/8", use a grinding stone instead to get it to 1/2".


Before you start drilling with your smallest bit, use something sharp to punch an indentation in the sheetmetal first to give yourself a fighting chance of actually starting the hole where you want it:


Here we go:


Be patient, move up in small increments with the bit sizes. Don't get greedy..... and.... Done!


Prime that biyatch!


And grommet it. These are 1/2" grommets from Home Depot, with a 3/8" opening, perfect for the 5/16" diameter wiring I was using:


Start snaking the wire up through the footwell above the fuse box. You'll see an opening:


Aim for where the stock wre bundle exits, and you'll get there:


Now wrestle out the rubber boot around the wire bundle and X-acto a slit in it to run your speaker wire through. There's PLENTY of space to run your wire through this rubber boot:


Might be the hardest part. Get your wire to peak through the slit, then you're golden.


Ok, reseat that boot, and advance your wire through.


And... Finished! Clean, no pinching whatsoever. Leave a bit of slack...



Repeat other side:




Congrats, you're done. Enjoy your new sound system!
 

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no mo mod
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why not run the wire the rest of the way through the rubber boot and make a little hole on the other side by the door connector?
 

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or better yet, doo it right.

I think the other way is better and this is half assing t

Thats just my opinion
:)
 

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http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240993
Thats what I did

That wire should be enough to power ANY speaker.
Anything bigger is just unnecessary for the front stage.
Plus there is nooo risk of getting any rust anywhere. That would suuckk badly.... and blow.
Just make sure u seat the connections tightly like they were, or some door accessories wont work. Dont freak out like I did. It most likely will be a loose connection somewhere
 

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That's still kind of half assed though. You'd have to cut the wire if you ever wanted to take the door out completely.
Just add some crimp connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
guys, as you see in my post I credited the ntpog method, but as I also said there are some problems with it: can't run heavy gauge wire through the molex, and you risk damaging the molex connectors. This is simply an alternative. The rubber boot is not big enough to run heavy wires through, and why would you anyway if you have to drill a hole in the door? The wire I use is triple insulated, or you could just use some wire loom for added protection. also, with priming and grommeting the hole, I don't rust should not be an issue.
 

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repost....double please:smilejap:
 

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What kind of sound deadening is that on the door, and does it work? My aftermarket stuff is starting to fall off.
 

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i hate to post and not have pics but i have done this twice on a 3rd gen and it was difficult and VERY tedious took almost 45 min per door (i took my time) i would post pics but it looks like stock. you run the wire with the stock wires inside the grommet. you DONT need to cut the rubber grommet. it is easier but to me not as clean and looks ghetto. you need to pull it off the door jam and the actual door and take a coat hanger and pull it straight duct tape your wire to the end of the coat hanger and feed the coat hanger through slowly you dont want to mess up any of the factory wires. like i said it is hard and very very tedious but it is worth it for the factory look. you can use this coat hanger teqneque for so many things and allows you to run wire with out riping everything out i do sujest pulling the carpet for running power wire because you dont want that wire to be steped on constantly or have any moving parts around that wire cause it could eventually ware out the wire coating and short out. ill post pics if people ask
 

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You don't need monster wires no matter what they tell you. Just make sure the ends are not corroded and the insulation is not cracked. You'll be fine.
 
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