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I need some help. I have a 98 prelude with 120,000 miles and I've been running 10w30 motor oil. Somehow, it's dissapearing! I have no leaks, have seen no spots, the plug and filter are tight and all seems fine, but it keeps dissapearing. It's happened twice in 6,000 miles and I don't know what to do, does anyone have any suggestions or help? It would me much appreciated, if so please e-mail me or post, thanks
 

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That is actually normal. From what it sounds like you are burning oil. This is not uncommon for the h22 motor. I only have 96,000 miles and I use 10W30 also, and I use about a quart or 2 per month under normal driving conditions. I have no leaks and the car is in perfect mechanical condition. If you are using more than what you think you should be your head gasket might need to be changed if you cannot see any visible leaks. If it is just losing oil and it is a head gasket you should have some oil in your antifreeze. Hope this helps.
 

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The thing to do is check the oil every time you get gas, and figure out how many miles it takes to burn one quart.

H22's are blessed (heh heh heh) with FRM cylinder liners, which tend to eat up rings if the oil isn't changed often enough, and cause oil burning.

If your not changing your oil every 3k miles, start doing so NOW.
The manufacturer may say 7500, but they don't care if the car blows up five miles beyond the warrenty.
If you care about your engines future, change the oil at 3k miles, no more.
 

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I believe as soon as you've used synthetic you have to continue to always use synthetic FYI
 

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no, you dont need to continue using synthetic once you start using it.

try using 10w-40 full synthetic.
actually, i just saw you're in georgia, so you're safe using 15w-40, 15w-50, or even 20w-50 full synthetic. or part synthetic. the oil is a bit thicker, so it'll be harder for it to work its way into the combustion chamber.

or you can even try using a can of 4 cyl engine restore. it only lasts about 3k miles, so you gotta use it with every oil change if you want it to continue to work lol. and it can be used with synthetic oil just the same as regular oil.

20w-50 full synthetic with a can of engine restore will deffinitely make a noticeable difference in how much oil it burns, and it'll raise compression a bit, maybe even a noticeable amount to affect how smooth it idles, and how much power it actually has.
 

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I'd deffinitely go with 20w50 if the temps are above freezing.
Synthetic is good stuff, back in the Dark Ages you had to be very careful about mixing it with normal oil, but those days are gone.
Now it already IS mixed with normal oil for one, and will happily mix with any brand of normal oil, any grade of normal oil too.


One important note:
If the engine is COLD, like sub freezing, you have 20w50 in it(or thicker) and you rev the engine up high enough, you run the risk of blowing the oil filter off.
The reality is that you shouldn't be reving the engine up when it's cold anyway, but it's something to remember :p
 

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I can support the VTEC/burning oil thing too. My Civic has the SOHC VTEC engine in it, and the only time it burns oil is when I'm driving in sustained VTEC. I was always under the impression that it wasn't necessarily a FRM thing but a VTEC thing since I'm convinced the D16Z6 does not have FRM. Honda recommends 5W-30 for the D16Z6, but I think that switching to an oil of greater weight would really help combat this problem just as Bob and Moto suggested.

And Bob, you should never use something like 20W-50 when it's really cold anyway, right? So the whole revving/blowing the filter off should never be an issue. Use the heavy stuff when it's hot and the light stuff when it's cold. This is correct, is it not?

--J
 

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Pretty much, yeah.

If it's not sub freezing, 20w50 is plenty thin, it's all we use at my shop (temps here go from mid 30's to mid 80's), only one kind of car doesn't like it, a certain flavor of mazda that has hydrolic lifters that pump up with thick oil.

We don't put it in hybrids, either, they call for 0w20 :p


There isn't any way for vtec itself to cause oil burning, all it does is switch cam profiles.
Now high rpm driving, THAT causes oil burning, especially sustained high rpm.
High rpm and high throttle means high crankcase pressures, which means more oil blown out the breather tube into the intake, which means more oil burnt.
 

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Hell yes change it at every 3k!

If you have synthetic, and use high quality oil filters so it stays nice and golden clear, you could go further.


You know all those FRM oil burning problems? (B21, H23, H22, etc.)
Those all stem from not changing the oil often enough.
 

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any "choice" brand of synthetic to run? some friends are convinced that quaker state is the best. dont really know. want to switch to synthetic though.
 

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Bobnova said:
Hell yes change it at every 3k!

If you have synthetic, and use high quality oil filters so it stays nice and golden clear, you could go further.


You know all those FRM oil burning problems? (B21, H23, H22, etc.)
Those all stem from not changing the oil often enough.
i run an sk2 filter and change my oil every 5-6k with either RP 5w30 or mobil1 5w30 extended performance. Oil comes out perfect and no metal shavings whatsoever.
 

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2.2L said:
i run an sk2 filter and change my oil every 5-6k with either RP 5w30 or mobil1 5w30 extended performance. Oil comes out perfect and no metal shavings whatsoever.
Better not have metal shavings!

The key is the color, carbon is the first thing to build up in the oil, thats a large part of what turns it darker colors (eventually black).

If you have an engine in good condition (which you obviously do) you can go much further before the oil starts to build up a load of damaging bits.


Your an exception rather then a rule, most of the preludes on this site have engines with some wear in them that build up gunk more quickly.




As to what brand, Redline is probably the best, Mobil and Castrol are both very good.
The key is to try to find out what % of the oil is actually synthetic. You would think that full synthetic oil would be 100%, but it isn't. The anti-foam/anti-this/anti-that compounds the oil needs in it won't disolve correctly in synthetic, so the companies put a % of normal oil in to hold those compounds.
Some companies will tell you what % of the oil is synthetic, others won't.


I use Castrol generally, but right now i have Mobil in there as the parts house was out of Castrol.



EDIT:
It should be noted that for normal driving, normal oil changed often is just as good as synthetic oil.
If you have a turbo, or spend a lot of time at high rpm, then you have a good reason to use synthetic, as it's much stronger and deals with those conditions much better then conventional oil does.
 
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