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i'm going to replace my oilpan gasget
i did a search and i read that the bolds are to be torque at 7lbs that should be 31 nm is that right?
and where do i put the liquid gasget (loctite) on the place where it meets the crankseal?
and what is the order of the bolds to tight them up like a cylhead?
i couldn't find any info on the manual
thanks
 

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7 ftlbs or 10Nm
torq them from the center out

make sure the block area and oil pan gasket are clean.
i like to apply a thin layer of hondabond to the oil pan itself first then put the gasket on. then apply another thin layer but more so on the each end of the gasket. then install the pan and gasket onto the car

kind of a reissurance thing for me
 

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put hondabond on the entire front and rear on the gasket (both sides). (the half circle part) do not put any sealer anywhere else, it will cause the gasket to squish out when you tighten it. 6.5 ft lbs or 78-80 in lbs is what I do.
 

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One more thing to add, there are metal washers (don't recall how many) that are part of the gasket and have a tendency to stay on the block when removing the old one. I had leaking issues before because I didn't see one of these washers. There should not be any lips around any of the studs on the block (there are a few studs to line up the oil pan)...
 

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The manual calls for putting the oil pan gasket in dry except for four points at the corners of the gasket at the crankshaft. Torque is applied up to 7ft.lbs (54in.lbs) working from the center out toward the ends.

Doing this sealed my oil pan... of course this was my second trip in! The first time in I thought I would ensure myself a leakfree seal by smearing hi-temp RTV on the oil pan gasket surface as well as the block surface. All that did was allow the gasket to squeeze out and make passages for oil to leak out! And leak it did... right on the exhaust pipe. Take it from me, put it in clean and dry except for a touch of hi-temp RTV at the corners!
 

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holy old thread batman. The manual doesn't say it but you ARE suppose to put sealant on the half circles aswell under the crank. The gasket has ribbing there for this.
 

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One more thing to add, there are metal washers (don't recall how many) that are part of the gasket and have a tendency to stay on the block when removing the old one. I had leaking issues before because I didn't see one of these washers. There should not be any lips around any of the studs on the block (there are a few studs to line up the oil pan)...
see post below..
 

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Take a look at the new gasket and you will see the brass spacers everyone is talking about. When the old gasket is removed these may stay attached to the studs. So...when you put the new gasket you will now have DOUBLE spacers. leaky..leaky..leaky

This would be a good opportunity to do something about the lousey Honda oil drain plug. Go to this site to see what I mean.

http://www.artsautomotive.com/HondaOilPan.htm
 

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One more thing to add, there are metal washers (don't recall how many) that are part of the gasket and have a tendency to stay on the block when removing the old one. I had leaking issues before because I didn't see one of these washers. There should not be any lips around any of the studs on the block (there are a few studs to line up the oil pan)...
Very important....listen to this man, 4 metal spacers at the corners of the oil pan gasket that are usually overlooked, if you forget to remove just one then you will still have an oil leak.

and another note, oil pans usually require that you go thru the torque cycle twice. DO NOT USE AIR/POWER tools here, use a simple 1/4" socket/extension/ratchet and just tighten the bolts by hand. I never go by specs since all pans seem to be different, just make the pan tight and "snug" when you visually see the gasket start to spread, no need to overtighten the bolts here., when all the bolts are snug, repeat the cycle to determine if all the bolts are tight. No need to use force here..
 
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