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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, after getting this car back together I've put about 1k miles on it so far. So far I have drained the old oil out and refilled with synthetic 10w-30 (didn't change the filter yet as it looks new, I don't trust it though). It had an unknown viscosity oil in there. I got a chance to take the VTEC screen filter off and it was beyond clogged...absolutely packed with crud which scares me. I don't know the condition of the bottom end. The top end looks decent. It still had some gunk.

I first noticed this issue during my first commute to work which is about 50 miles one way. It only does this after maybe 30 or so miles into the commute. The motor does tick pretty loudly, but it probably needs a valve adjustment as it sounds from the upper end. There is also a knocking at idle, which is probably just something vibrating as it goes away with rpm.

Now the important stuff:

No CELs

Clutch in, gear in neutral, coming fresh off the highway, the car does not idle. It dies immediately. Usually I have to crank it up about 3 or 4 times before it attempts to idle. It will then idle low at about 600 rpm by itself. I can keep it alive by giving it a bit of gas when it wants to stall.

After getting off of the highway and entering the stop and go portion of my commute, the idle will do a slow hunt from 500 - 900 when it doesn't stall.

The oil light is flickering at idle only when hot. Today, it started doing solid blinks which go away once the car is restarted, but comes back sometimes when it has to idle. Maybe because I changed the oil?

Power steering to full lock will usually kill it. I'd say about 95% of the time when the engine is hot.

My idle from my last emissions test read 790 rpm, which was last week.

Balance shaft belt is off.

VTEC works now, so I believe the oil pump is good. Oil pan looks good, free of dents.

Things that I should do:

Change the filter
Change the oil pressure sensor
Valve adjustment
Check for vacuum leak
Leak down/compression test

Sell car if the above doesn't fix it. But seriously, is there anything else I should be on the lookout for?
 

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Why would you change the oil and not the filter?

A common misconception is that properly adjusted valve are quiet. Valves that are too tight and held open are quiet. As the saying goes a happy valve is a noisy valve. Would be a good idea to check them if they haven't been done for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The filter looked clean so I didn't mess with it. Based on the VTEC screen, I may need to find something to flush this motor with anyway.

I changed the oil so that I would know what viscosity was in there.

I checked my TPS at lunch today and it reads 0v KOEO and throttle closed and 3.5v throttle open. I could not set it within factory spec of 0.5V closed 4.5V open. It doesn't look OEM either. Do Prelude TPS's have hex bolts, stock? Or are they shear bolts like the Accord?

I agree on the valves, it's no telling if they have ever been adjusted. I'll throw a feeler gauge on there to check the specs.
 

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Ok guys, after getting this car back together I've put about 1k miles on it so far. So far I have drained the old oil out and refilled with synthetic 10w-30 (didn't change the filter yet as it looks new, I don't trust it though). It had an unknown viscosity oil in there. I got a chance to take the VTEC screen filter off and it was beyond clogged...absolutely packed with crud which scares me. I don't know the condition of the bottom end. The top end looks decent. It still had some gunk.

I first noticed this issue during my first commute to work which is about 50 miles one way. It only does this after maybe 30 or so miles into the commute. The motor does tick pretty loudly, but it probably needs a valve adjustment as it sounds from the upper end. There is also a knocking at idle, which is probably just something vibrating as it goes away with rpm.

Now the important stuff:

No CELs

Clutch in, gear in neutral, coming fresh off the highway, the car does not idle. It dies immediately. Usually I have to crank it up about 3 or 4 times before it attempts to idle. It will then idle low at about 600 rpm by itself. I can keep it alive by giving it a bit of gas when it wants to stall.

After getting off of the highway and entering the stop and go portion of my commute, the idle will do a slow hunt from 500 - 900 when it doesn't stall.

The oil light is flickering at idle only when hot. Today, it started doing solid blinks which go away once the car is restarted, but comes back sometimes when it has to idle. Maybe because I changed the oil?

Power steering to full lock will usually kill it. I'd say about 95% of the time when the engine is hot.

My idle from my last emissions test read 790 rpm, which was last week.

Balance shaft belt is off.

VTEC works now, so I believe the oil pump is good. Oil pan looks good, free of dents.

Things that I should do:

Change the filter
Change the oil pressure sensor
Valve adjustment
Check for vacuum leak
Leak down/compression test

Sell car if the above doesn't fix it. But seriously, is there anything else I should be on the lookout for?
Check oil pressure with an external gauge so you know what you have, If your idle is dropping down to 500 that will make your light flicker. If you prove you have low oil pressure, replace motor or get rid of it. If oil pressure is borderline low try a heavier grade of oil and run it as long as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Too late, I started to hear definite engine knocking today that varies with rpm. Now that I think about it, the oil I removed did look strange...turns out it had metal in it. Selling it is my only option now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nope, I'm in Atlanta. I'm sure someone can bring her back to life. I don't have the time or space to do a swap right now.

Definitely should've went with a stock Lude.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It ain't dead yet...I found an auto lude that has a transmission problem.

So for 1k, I can pick up
Engine
Interior
A/C lines and compressor
Oem PS pump
Sawblades
A good exhaust
A sunroof visor
5lug parts
A clean shell to sell to someone who wants to do a v6 swap.
Misc bolts and screws
Honeycomb grill
New radiator is included.

Not bad. I'm going to check this car out tomorrow. I just hope he hasn't ran it hot.
2001 Honda Prelude - $1000
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/5387344358.html

I'll make a thread showing the engine damage whenever I get it apart.
 
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