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Okay PreludePower i'm going to lay it on you. Over the last week I decided to take on the task of installing my new Momo Corse steering wheel. When I do something I like to do it right and I like to be prepared so there are no issues and the job gets done quick. Thinking I had done my research correctly and having read multiple threads throughout honda-tech, preludeonline, ntpog and youtube videos I figured I had all the information I needed. This could not be further from the truth.

Let me start by saying every write up or video was done on a 5th gen prelude. They all made it look so simple, and it really should have been had I owned a 5th gen. All the write up's and videos claimed that the 4th gen and 5th gen preludes are identical installs, again this was extremely bad information. Well guys, after many hours of researching sketchy info, piecing together fragments of information from all the sites, and some trial and error I have successfully completed the installation of the steering wheel, successfully wired the horn, and cleared the SRS light. I hope you all find this useful as I really wish this existed when I did this mod :lol:

TOOLS REQUIRED:

- Flat head screw driver
- Philips head screw driver
- 19mm socket
- Ratchet
- Allan key (provided with hub)
- 10mm wrench
- T30 Torx screwdriver
- Torque wrench
- Loctite "blue" (medium strength)
- Aftermarket steering wheel (momo in this case)
- HKB Boss Hub Kit (NRG slim hub would be very similar)
- Wire strippers
- Electrical tape
- 2.2 Ohm 1/2 watt resistor
- 1 foot of wire
- Horn Shoe #35259-SH3-A02 (or a feeler gauge, little bit more ghetto)

I stole the photos for the steering wheel removal from the NTPOG write up for the 5th gen because I never took photos when I removed it. I will explain the differences as I go along.

Step 1.
Use the 10mm wrench to disconnect the battery. You don't want an airbag blowing up in your face.

Step 2.
On the left hand side of the wheel there will be a plastic cover. Remove it and the first torx bolt will be revealed.



Step 3.
Now this was the first difference between 4th and 5th gens. The 5th gens as you can see in the picture has a 2nd cover on the opposite side. The 4th gen does not. This confused me as you need to remove both to get the airbag off. It turns out you have to pop off the cruise control cover as it is hidden underneath it. Use your flat head screw driver to pop the cover off. It took a lot of force, I honestly thought I was going to break the cover it was that much pressure.



Step 4. The bottom of the wheel is similar to the 5th gen like in this picture. Remove the cover and it will expose the srs clip attached to the airbag. unclip it.



Step 5. Remove the 2nd torx bolt holding the air bag. Your airbag can no be removed from the wheel and set aside. Be careful with it.

Step 6. The first thing that should become apparent is what you will be looking at does not look like this picture below. The clips are much more difficult to remove. I used the flat head to help get the clips out. You will need to unclip the horn and the cruise.



Step 7. Grab your 19mm socket and ratchet and crack the wheel loose. Before you do this though make sure the wheels are perfectly straight. In the NTPOG they stress about making sure the reel is perfectly aligned. Lucky for you (unlucky for me as this was where the unknown processes were soon discovered) you will be removing the reel so that entire stress is gone. Just make sure your wheels are as straight as possible so your alignment will remain true.



Step 8. Now that the nut is loose this is where I found it pointless and unneeded to use a steering wheel puller. The part is about $15-20 at a parts store. You DO NOT need to buy one. In the picture it shows it being used. All you need to do is loosen the nut but keep it attached with a few threads. All you need to do is grab 10 and 2 on your wheel and give it a good pull forward. It is not on there near as tight as the write up leads you to believe. The nut was left on so you don't smash your face with your wheel. Finish loosening the nut off and remove the wheel.

 

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Step 9. This is about as far as the NTPOG write up will take you for a 4th gen. This is what you'll now be looking at.



As you can see the SRS clip is a male end, not a female like the 5th gen. What does this mean? It means your resistor can't just clip on with ease to remove the SRS light.



On the 5th gens the BOSS hub also slides right on with the reel. Not the case as you can see. This means the reel has to come off.





Step 10. Removing the reel means it is time to remove the covering. You will need a really long Phillips head screw driver for this as the screw by the ignition in the back has an abnormally deep hole. Once the cover is removed you'll be looking at this. There are 3 Phillips head bolts holding the reel on. Remove them to let the reel become loose.



The reel is held on by a 6 prong clip, unclip this and then remove the entire reel and set it aside.



 

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Step 11. This is where it gets fun! There was no solid confirmed information about this 6 prong clip. Preludeonline gets thumbs up for having the suggestion on which prongs they believed were the SRS prongs. As it turned out they were correct! #1 (the far left in the picture) is for your horn. #4 and #6 (3rd from the right and the furthest right) are your SRS prongs. Insert your 1 foot wire for the horn into prong #1, then bend and insert your resistor into the #4 and #6 prongs.





This should be the result



Step 12. This step is making sure the wire stays in place and the resistor does as well. Neither sit in the prongs super tight. I taped the wire by itself first. Then bent the resistor back and followed it up by taping around the clip. These are now both secured.







Step 13. Guess what? Now that you have set your SRS light off it is time to remove it. Just because you turn your car on with the resistor installed doesn't mean it will just disappear like the 5th gen preludes. No, our preludes are not as smart as we still are rocking that OBD1 technology. Guess what that means? Ya, you guessed it go behind your center console and break out the srs plug which is beside the code reader plug.



Step 14. Break out the wire strippers and make two short wires like so.



Step 15. I found this gem of info on our very own PreludePower :) I'm just stealing the information and posting it step by step here. It took me 3 times before my light reset properly so just keep at it until you get it. It does in fact work.

1. You need to find the SRS light reset connector. The SRS light reset connector is located in the front part of the center console on the drivers side of the 4th gen prelude. The connector is yellow in color and is a 2 prong connector. It sits under the center console next to the 2 prong blue engine diagnostics connector.

2. Clip one alligator clip to one of the prongs and the other alligator clip to the other prong. If you're using 2 strands of wire, you won't be clipping, but twisting or shoving the wire into the respective prongs.

3. Hold the two ends of your wire together, so that they are now connected.

4. Keeping the wires connected, turn the ignition on (Do NOT start your car).

5. The SRS light comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off. Quickly disconnect the two wires.

6. The SRS light will come on again. Quickly reconnect your wires.

7. The SRS light goes off. Disconnect your wire connection and leave the wires disconnected.

8. If you did this correctly, the SRS will blink twice.

9. Turn the ignition off and wait 20 seconds.

10. Turn the ignition on, thus starting your car, and hopefully the SRS light will now be off.

11. Turn your car off, assuming the above instructions WORKED and your SRS light is now off. If you SRS light failed to go out, you either did the procedure incorrectly, or your SRS system has something else wrong with it.

11. Remove your wires, do not cross them at all or let them touch. Replug the yellow connector back into the "dummy harness under the center console".

12. If the SRS light comes back on (assuming you reset the SRS correctly and the light was off), then something is malfunctioning in the SRS Airbag System and you'll have to see a DEALERSHIP or repair shop.

Remeber, you only have a 4 second window to connect/disconnect the wires. Example: when the SRS light comes on in Step 6, you have 4 seconds to reconnect the wires.

Once you have successfully completed the above you should now be looking at a dash like this ;) (plz ignore the idle as my foot bumped the gas :p )

 

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Step 16. Now that we got the SRS light successfully cleared it is time to get the horn working properly. It became very apparent while reading multiple threads that people did not understand the function of the steering reel. The purpose of it is to allow your wheel to spin side to side without having a wiring harness spin wires left and right. If you had a wire harness constantly going left and right you'd have some issues. The reel is like a very long spring loaded wire system (very thin wires) that prevent this issue. But wait? How do we make a horn work if the tab is connected by a 1 foot wire and the ground plate spins? This stumped me as well for a little and all I could find were really ghetto fixes that created bad noises and issues for those with vibrations in their steering wheels (aka solid motor mounts). Well as it turns out there is a part for this. A Honda Shoe Horn it's honda part #35259-SH3-A02. This is originally for a civic. This piece of info came from PreludeOnline.

Well guess what? I didn't feel like going to Honda and I wanted it done when I was doing it. What does a shoe horn look like? This is what it looks like.



What is the purpose of this? How does it work? What do I need to do for it to work on a prelude? The purpose is it acts as a contact point for the power from the horn wire. On the back of the hub there is a metal plate that spins with the wheel. Since a wire can't be attached to the spinning plate or it would tangle up and eventually come loose and cause some serious issues you need a system that connects but allows it to spin freely. This is just that.

There is an issue, if that Horn shoe moves at all and bumps the surrounding metal it will cause your horn to honk non stop. I came up with the following solution. This picture shows the metal that can cause it to sound. I'm sure the Honda horn shoe stays in one place better but even the possibility of running the risk the horn shoe moves and touched the exposed metal of the hub was enough for me to take precautionary measures.



Step 17. Take electrical tape and wrap a single piece around. Any more than one layer will cause it to be to tight when you pull the contact plate over.



Now slide the plate over along with the HUB and you should have it looking like this. Make sure that the TOP mark on the hub is lined up properly. At the same time grab your 19mm socket and your torque wrench and torque the nut to 36 ft/lbs. Don't worry about spinning the hub while torquing. If your keys are out of the ignition it will lock up. When it is torqued put your keys back in and spin it back to the top.



With it being almost midnight when I was working on my car I got creative. Seeing as i'll never use this clearance from my feeler gauge and it having a hole drilled in it already I opted to use it as my Horn Shoe.



Cut to size and bent to shape.



Step 18. You will now install the Horn Shoe and connect your 1 foot horn wire from the plug. There is a small mount point near the top right of the hub perfect for this. Wrap the wire around the screw and install the Horn Shoe as follows.





Congrats, you should now have a Horn Shoe that doesn't contact any metal other than the contact plate and you will be able to spin the wheel without it moving out of position. Best of all you now have a working horn.

Step 19. Grab your horn now and wire it like so. Test it out and make sure it works. (this picture was taken before when I had the hub removed. your hub will be installed by this time, I just prewired it based on the momo wheel instructions ahead of time)



Step 20. Secure the plug to something. I chose the metal brace. Because I did this I included the following image and circled where a screw cannot be installed when you put the cover back on. Otherwise you'll screw into the plug which will cause some serious issues.





Step 21. The next step is simple. Grab your wheel and bolt the 6 allan key bolts on. Use the TOP marks on the hub to line the top of your new wheel up. Take a step back and admire your hard work.





Best of luck guys, hope this helps someone out there. I sure would have appreciated a real write up when doing this.

Update* I ordered the proper Honda Horn Shoe today and will be installing it when it arrives. I'll update the write up once I am done installing it allowing everyone to see both ways to do the horn hook up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No problem! Be sure to order the Horn Shoe from Honda for a less ghetto install (even though it is the same thing) it's around $5 for the part.
 

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One thing to mention about the clock spring/reel, is that Honda makes them so they turn 5 FULL times, this means that if you remove your steering wheel and turn the clock spring and do no know its position, in order to get it centered correctly one must turn it counter-clockwise all the way, then turn it clockwise 2 and 1/2 turns, this will centralize the clockspring and align up the wheel so that the wheel can freely turn both directions as per its engineering.

Great write up, does this work with only this particular hub or will this work on other hub units as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks! And you are correct ^ that is why it is so important on a 5th gen. The 4th gens require having the reel completely removed making that part pointless. As long as the wheels are straight everything will be fine.

Yes, this write up will work with the NRG hub as well. There are a few differences between a BOSS hub and the NRG hub. The boss hub has a removable contact pad where the nrg pad is built in. I've owned both and have seen the differences. The wiring routing just slightly different as well but both require the Horn Shoe to hook up the horn. Other than that all the steps would be followed the same.
 

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Here is what the Honda part looks like.



What you'll need to do is cut the end off and then bend it so it contacts the plate with the ball end. You can actually just bend the metal until it breaks, that is what I did.



Follow the same steps as I did with the feeler gauge and you have a proper setup.

 

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Great that you got it figured out. So... did you dispose of the cruise controls then or did you relocate them? On the longer road trips I'll admit that the cruise is sure nice.

When I had to service the reel in my 4g a few years ago I was really surprised how heavy that wheel assmebly was. After that I wanted to go to an aftermarket wheel, but as usual, I got side tracked. Besides the OE wheel is huge relative to most aftermarket ones and I haven't had power steering for the last 12 years. With wide sticky rubber the steering effort is pretty severe. So much so I'd get blisters after a long circuit track event.

Whenever I get around to the swap I'll be by here for the writeup. Thanks for posting up!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I deleted cruise control years ago so I did not bother to include how to wire it up onto the wheel. I agree, it is nice to have but I rarely used it in the prelude. On my dailys all the time, no so much on this car. Glad you appreciate the write up.
 

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I got the nrg set up and I just drilled and new screw hole into there so I didnt have to bend anything. Worked out pretty good. Cruise control,,,....lol I think that was the first mod I ever did to the prelude, 10 years ago.
 
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