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Black or White stock blades

  • Black

    Votes: 35 63.6%
  • White

    Votes: 20 36.4%
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Skunk2 shift knob (dark metal)

or

Civic Type R/ Mugen (silver titanium round ball type)
 

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Tein basic coilovers or SS???
I have either Flex or SS - sad to say that i don't remember, but they're nearly the same, love'em

I'd go SS over basics, if i'm not mistaken you need to use your stock tophat with the basics, where the SS come with new ones. Tein's site will tell you for sure and it's worth it.

what do you guys think of the 5th gen OEM sunroof?....should i install it or not?
5th gen OEM sunroof installed in a?

I'm assuming you drive a 4th gen? if so - go for it if you want a sunroof that won't rust :)
 

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5th gen OEM sunroof visor for a 5th gen sunroof.........i own a 5th gen :) hahah....you think it'll be worth it???....and how does it prevent rust bro?


OHHHHH the sunroof VISOR - you had just said sunroof, i assumed you had a 4th gen. In the 4th gen 'ludes, the roofs rust since they're not glass, so installing a 5th gen glass sunroof prevents that (in their case).


I'm personally not a fan of the sunroof Visor. Despite it's a discontinued part now (like the door molding) - it doesn't flow right in my eyes....
 

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I always have trouble telling on this computer... but if that is indeed an OEM rear lip, I'd say keep it.
 

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my 5th gen has been losing oil like no ones business. It's around a quart for every 1000 miles or less. I don't use vtec! My compression score is 220, i passed my leakdown test with flying colors, there is no oil on the ground or around any of the seals or the oil pan. It has all been sealed or replaced prior to this. My valve stem seals are good as during deceleration no cloud of oil is seen. There is also no blue smoke seen on startup. Most importantly the motor was rebuilt less than 20,xxx miles ago. It has been suggested that the motor was rebuilt improperly and that although my piston rings may have been replaced the oil rings may not have and could be causing the oil to burn slowly.

I'm not sure what to do. Fixing this is pricey since I have put in all the money to fix all the leaks but I can't even go 3000 miles before my oil light comes on and I find out I'm short 4.5 quarts of oil. I'm currently running synthetic but I don't know if going down to conventional will increase the burn rate, debatable I know. What I'm considering is finding a short block or someone's leftovers and swapping blocks but is this really worth it? I could just refill the oil every time I fill up but it's such a pain.

Any suggestions? funding is limited so no jdm swaps please.

have you checked under the dizzy/camseal/intake manifold for oil leaks?

I can see you burning 1qt every 1k miles.... depending on how hard you drive it.

are you 100% sure you're burning that oil and not leaking anywhere? it's going somewhere and i can't see you burning 4quarts in less than 3k - maybe half a qt every 1,000 miles but it doesn't seem right as you said.


btw - you posted this in the wrong section, toss it up in the 5th gen forum as a new topic.
 

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We all know you're going to go with what's more functional in the end lol
 

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All you need is something thicker to go across the radiator support (stuck to the hood of course) that will prevent that extra airflow from going under the hood and give back some pressure from you latching the hood, so the hood will be slightly pulling upward with the thicker stripping pushing it while the latch does it's job pulling it down.



***edit***

Hood pins of some type really should be used.....that latch on the cf hood will break at some point - and you'll want to be prepared.
 

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gauges....on the pillar or above the radio? my first will be the a/f gauge :)

also...so i dont waste money what gauges should i buy? like n/a i need 1,2,3 and turbo i need 1,2,4,5. numbers are example of types.
I think Pillar looks cleaner - if you were doing only 2 i'd say steering column
 

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Where would you put it though?
I saw the one guy (forgot who) who put it in his visor but I imagine that would be a pain in the ass to look at unless you sit real far back.


I don't see why it wouldn't be able to get hooked up to a doubledin - that's the first thing that comes to mind
 

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Those anyone think any of these RIMS would look better on my car than what I got now??
Mine is the one in the signature. A friend wanna trade and he let me choose any of the 2 sets .
Thanks
The wider spoke civic wheels a fellow member on here has on his 5th gen if you were curious - they're EXTREMELY close to the caliper to where it needs to get filed down. look up jblude01 or check for a black 5th gen with green rims in last years KOP meet pic thread or the past 2 years OBX meet pic threads

Keep my black AP1 Wheels or sell them and get some 17" bronze circuit 10's? Getting a new car soon, still gonna keep the lude, but I'm not gonna break the bank on wheels.

You could paint them bronze or a dark gold. press10 has his painted bronze and it looks niceeee
 

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since i have no idea how to claybar and wax my car if i take it to honda and get the $180 super duper ass raping special for them to completely detail my car is it worth it?
Unless you've had someone get their car detailed there previously - no.


I had mine detailed at a chevy dealership - my paint has burn marks all over it now. Happened back in June and i've not had a chance to fix it yet :(
Basically alot of the time it's just some random person thrown in there to wash cars... let someone else be the test subject.

claybaring is not hard at all. Your paint is what? a year old if that? I doubt you need it. (but i can take a look at it sunday if you want lol)
 

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i am thinking of using window tint film on my fog lights (they are clear) to smoke them. i was wondering if i should just use niteshades tint spray instead of the tint? i am thinking of using 30%
You're better off with the nightshade spray - regular auto glass tint is a real pain in the ass to form around the slight curve of the fogs. Unless you can find pre-cut pieces, just go with the spray.
 

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i am thinking of using window tint film on my fog lights (they are clear) to smoke them. i was wondering if i should just use niteshades tint spray instead of the tint? i am thinking of using 30%
Just looking for an opinion on an exhaust setup (most likely everything from the header through to the tip) that fits my budget while actually being an upgrade...I know there's plenty of cheap options out there that are said to be good by the people who bought them and didn't want to admit that they really weren't that great, and then there's the best options which are a little more than I'd care to spend. Trying to find the most cost effective setup. Obviously it'll end up being over a grand to get some good parts together but 2 G's is more than I want to spend. This set up also ideally has to pass an emissions test called AirCare, which is similar to BAR in California, so a catalytic converter must be present.

So far I know I'm most likely going to start with the Vibrant header...I had my heart set on the Hytech Replica, but then when I saw that the Vibrants came back and were just over $500, I'm definitely gonna be going with that, which basically outlines my budget mind set. Willing to spend some cash and don't want the bottom of the barrel parts, but not looking to get the best of the best and fork out several G's. Basically, the "mid range". I know 3" exhaust assemblies are said to be best for the H22's...however I don't want a SUPER loud exhaust note if possible.

Currently, only engine performance mod to the car is a Type S intake. Down the road I'm also looking at getting a Euro-R manifold package from Rosko, Type S size throttle body, etc. so desirably the parts should be of good enough quality and function to compliment these components as well.

If you're a TLDR kinda guy just read the bold.
If you just want sound, a 2.5" custom piped exhaust with your choise of resonator and muffler will be fine. I have an 18" vibrant resonator with a Greddy Evo2 muffler and it sounds good to me - but a little loud to some. So pick a less straight through design muffler if you don't want rasp or a high pitch.

Otherwise, like you said - 3" is the way to go but you might need 2 resonators with your muffler to make it reasonably quite.

How will a silver prelude look with the....red SiR...carpets.....including the red center console?.....Rest of the things will be OEM....including door panels and seats...
do a photo request of a silver 'lude with the sir interior - I know there are a few out there. I personally think that just having the carpet and center consul is kinda bleh.... should do at least the door panels to make it flow a little better. exterior color really doesn't matter IMO, not like things that low in the car are visible when looking from the outside. So it's all a personal choice kinda thing
 

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2 1/2" or 3" exhaust I am hearing good and bad what do you guys thinks?
i was thinking of getting a new exhuast put together ive done a searches on here and pz so far i have found part of the answer but i was thinking an apexi Noir muffler with a vibrant resonator and get custom piping from a local shop more than likely just 2 1/4" or 2.5''? any opinions on this set up? oh and where is a good place for depo black housing headlights i know ebay but which seller do yall recommend?

edit: also looking at getting a high flow cat as well.

I'll answer both questions at once;


2.5" for sound. 3" for power.


my butt dyno tells me I've deff lost low end power on the 3" vs the 2.3" i had previously - but i do feel a slight difference in the mid-high end. Sound gets raspy at 4k+ but nice and deep when below that.

2.5" is much much easier to control sound wise. If I didn't do the 3" for power, i'd have a nice sounding custom 2.5" for sure.


I stand by Vibrants resonators - thats all i've ever used.

magnaflow makes aftermarket catalytic converters, so does SMSP.
 

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I'm a little biased - because I love Motegi wheels.... i'd say keep them. Maybe powdercoat them a different color to change things up a bit?
 
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