Honda Prelude Forum banner

1 - 20 of 164 Posts

321 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Official HyTech replica H22 Tri-Y 4-2-1/ FLEX / DRAG / RAMHORN header CONTINUED!


I am selling these headers out-right. This is no longer a group buy. Everyone gets the same price.

If you want the price, send me a PM. If you want the price, send me a PM.
If you want the price, send me a PM. If you want the price, send me a PM.
If you want the price, send me a PM. If you want the price, send me a PM.
If you want the price, send me a PM. If you want the price, send me a PM.
If you want the price, send me a PM. If you want the price, send me a PM.

If you do not have enough posts to send me a PM, just email me.

[email protected]

The shipping is the same for everyone in the contiguous US, and you should be sending a PM anyway.




To save time:
This header is A/C and P/S friendly.
This header is SH friendly
This header is 4G friendly (read here:
This header is NOT an OEM replacement. This is a performance piece. You should have or be installing an aftermarket exhaust. Some welding will be required.
pictures and dyno.
If you have any questions not already answered, send me a PM. I don't check this thread very often.

Now, here are some pictures of the header before & after installation.

^^^Picture of the crossmember notch taken from above. Unfortunately, the shop doing the install was clueless as to how to install this header. Otherwise, that notch would not exist.

^^^ Idea of the ground clearance (ignore the shitty welding job, it has nothing to do with the header). My car is lowered about 1.5 inches.

Here are the results of this header.
Car: KRONS 1998 SH
Mods: eBay CAI w/ K&N, Carsound universal high-flow cat, custom 2.5" crush-bent exhaust, OBX muffler (2.5" In/Dual 3.0" Out)
Temp: 66ºF
Hum: 6%

321 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I cannot claim any power gains from this header since it went on as part of an H22 swap.
The fitment to the head was perfect. The slip joints were tight but once you get them started a pair of channel lock pliers will pull them tight so that was not a problem either. You may have to file the inner edges of the outside pipes for them to slip on a little easier. I'd also recommend a little PB Blaster or WD-40 as well. DO NOT try to use the bolts to bring the peices together because it will not work. DO NOT flair the pipes to make them slide on better. Some people have done it and are now fighting leaks. I have no leaks.

I cut the front crossmember to accomodate the header. This is a minor thing and nothing to worry about. I cut more than I had to but that was because I didn't have the motor in the car.
Here's a couple pics of where I cut the crossmember:

When I purchased it, I also purchased a 4 way adjustable test pipe.
Here's the one I purchased:
And an alternative:
The header/test pipe assembly was too short. By about ~18". So I purchase a 2.5" pipe from Autozone with flaired ends. I measued and cut the pipe to size and it fixed the problem. The collector flange is the lowest point of the entire header. I would recommend taking it to a muffler shop and having them weld in a flex pipe right before the collector so that it sits slightly higher and can flex. Otherwise it will crack, unless your using really good aftermarket mounts. I've got Energy Suspension inserts in the front and rear mounts plus a brand new driver's side mount and my transmission one is in great shape. So needless to say, my engine is pretty solid and moves very little. If mine cracks, I will be getting a flex pipe installed.

The difference in space between test pipe and header collector:

The solution:

The results:

Here's several pictures showing the ground clearance in refference to the sub-frame brace:

The next one is the ACTUAL ground clearance. The car is off the jack stands:

I spent some time driving around and can say that I have not had any problems with it scraping with some exceptions. The collector flange will scrape on speed tables and speed bumps slightly, but nothing major. The secondaries do not scrub or scrape despite how low they look. I drove down several gravel driveways and a handful of pothole- filled roads at about 40mph (you wouldn't want to drive any faster down them anyway). My car is lowered on H&R race springs (approximately a 2" drop all around) and am sitting on stock wheels and tires.
How my car sits:

next to a stock ride height MS6 (my father's):

Next to other ludes at a GA meet:

The oxygen sensor posed a minor hold up. If I would have installed the O2 sensor in the bung on the header it would have interfered with the sub-frame brace and would have easily broken if the engine moved slightly.

Pictures explain better:

My solution was to put it in the O2 bung on the test pipe which is actually closer to the factory location anyway. But since it screws into the side instead of the top, the wires have to be extended several inches and then zip-tied out of the way of the half-shaft.

After driving for a week the header has turned a deep bronze with a slight purplish tint in places. No picture. sorry.

The dyno results finally came in earlier today. It picked up 7-11whp on 98 SH with the following mods: CAI, Custom 2.5" crush-bent exhaust, OBX 2.5" single in/3.0" dual out muffler. The temperature was 66ºF and 6% humidity.

Original dyno thread that I stole that from:

NOTE: that came from an SH so it WILL FIT on SH's!!!!!
I took the pictures with the only camera I have: my phone. I am kind enough to post up pics, info, and answer all questions so please guys, cut me some slack.
If there's any questions or you want a picture of something specific, let me know and I'll see what I can do.
1 - 20 of 164 Posts