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Discussion Starter #21
In the end I loosened the lower mounting bolt and removed the top mounting bolt for the power steering pump; that allowed the pump to pivot enough so that I could remove the belt. Got the alternator and alternator / AC belt off as well. I might just go and remove the A/C compressor bracket off to get that power steering tensioner pulley nut off.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yeah, two factors messed up that bolt:
1) mistakenly thought it was reverse thread
2) didn't have a really good box wrench

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I probably have a spare ps tensioner laying around. Just pay shipping and it's yours. Message me if you want it. I don't check in here very often now that I don't have any 3rd gens.
 

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and we miss ya Buddy....... Hay remind me, but did u have a spare water inlet pipe for a 3rd Gen? Somebody on here was desperate to find one.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I spent quite some time removing the radiator; it was definitely not as straightforward as I thought it’d be. Not much space, needed to undo the fans first, needing to undo the radiator support as well, but ultimately got it out. The pic below shows the AC fan removed, and all the AC lines that were still blocking the other fan. You can also see the unbolted radiator support. Is this how others hv removed their radiators?

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I noticed the radiator was dripping this grey liquid out the lower radiator opening.... is this some StopLeak stuff? When I first drained the radiator it was still green coolant. In any case this radiator is done.
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Finally, does anyone know where I can find a front engine mount? Mine is torn.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Today was one of those "not exactly sure what progress I made" days. The crank pulley tool I bought was slightly out of tolerance, so I had to shave that down a bit. Afterwards, i cracked two sockets trying to remove the crank pulley out. I've used non-impact sockets in the past, but this is the first time I've actually split them. Even PB Blasted the bolt. The suspension arms are in the way, and therefore I can't use a jack to push on the breaker bar for the crank bolt.

I gave up on that and decided to remove the power steering tensioner pulley bracket. I got the four front bolts out, and proceeded to remove the one facing the driver's side. That bolt absolutely would not budge. PB blasted that one, as well as blasted a knuckle. No progress.

Back to an earlier post, thanks for the offer on the PS tensioner pulley; I'll definitely keep that offer in mind if I become stuck. Right now it's two sockets (1/2in and 19mm) and a front motor mount on order.
 

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and we miss ya Buddy....... Hay remind me, but did u have a spare water inlet pipe for a 3rd Gen? Somebody on here was desperate to find one.
It's nice to be missed, even if just a little :D
Yeah, I think I have a water inlet pipe for a manual. Wouldn't work for an auto though if that's what they need. I really need to go through my spare parts to see exactly what I have.
Today was one of those "not exactly sure what progress I made" days. The crank pulley tool I bought was slightly out of tolerance, so I had to shave that down a bit. Afterwards, i cracked two sockets trying to remove the crank pulley out. I've used non-impact sockets in the past, but this is the first time I've actually split them. Even PB Blasted the bolt. The suspension arms are in the way, and therefore I can't use a jack to push on the breaker bar for the crank bolt.

I gave up on that and decided to remove the power steering tensioner pulley bracket. I got the four front bolts out, and proceeded to remove the one facing the driver's side. That bolt absolutely would not budge. PB blasted that one, as well as blasted a knuckle. No progress.

Back to an earlier post, thanks for the offer on the PS tensioner pulley; I'll definitely keep that offer in mind if I become stuck. Right now it's two sockets (1/2in and 19mm) and a front motor mount on order.
Sounds good, lemme know. I think have more than one of those.
 

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I spent quite some time removing the radiator; it was definitely not as straightforward as I thought it’d be. Not much space, needed to undo the fans first, needing to undo the radiator support as well, but ultimately got it out. The pic below shows the AC fan removed, and all the AC lines that were still blocking the other fan. You can also see the unbolted radiator support. Is this how others hv removed their radiators?

View attachment 27277

I noticed the radiator was dripping this grey liquid out the lower radiator opening.... is this some StopLeak stuff? When I first drained the radiator it was still green coolant. In any case this radiator is done.
View attachment 27278

Finally, does anyone know where I can find a front engine mount? Mine is torn.

Bought all of my motor mounts from Rock Auto then beefed them up with windshield sealer silicon....
 

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Thanx luzer, I bumped the coolant pipe thread to the top. Its now 2 months old.... so who knows. but its nice to know that 1 may be still out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Update: crank pulley bolt was on pretty tight; I was literally jumping on the breaker bar, and the bolt actually "popped" twice before finally loosening.

With timing belt and t-belt covers off, i had space to remove the last bolt holding the bracket for the PS tensioner. With a six-point that tensioner pulley nut came right off, a sigh of relief.

Head is off, and the old gasket was completely trashed. I haven't had a chance to grab some measuring calipers, but the gasket bores matched the B20A3 block. As other members' experience have shown, the smaller gasket ultimately fails supposedly due to the gasket's circumferential penetration into the combustion chamber as well as inadequate gasket crushing.
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Looking at the block, piston #1 is spotlessly clean. I'm wondering the the gasket started failing at this piston, and that the coolant just kept lightly "washing" the cylinder" until the entire gasket gave up.
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Here's the head, and #1 combustion chamber echoes the almost-spotless surfaces like piston #1.
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I haven't cleaned the gasket material off the head surfaces, but I applied a straightedge to the mating surface and it looks to be fine. I checked front, back, and diagonally both ways. I'll check again after I've scraped everything off.

Speaking of scraping, what is the best way to clean the block surface? I have read people stuffing rags into the cylinders and injecting shaving cream into the coolant / oil passages. Others are using Roloc to whisk the material off. I'm planning on just carefully using a razor blade along with WD40. Also, should I clean the carbon buildup on the piston heads and combustion chambers? If so, what would i use?

Finally, I understand Honda head bolts are reusable, but where could I find a new set? I believe B20 and B21 uses the same bolts. I have checked Fel Pro, ARP, Summit, no success.

Much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
update:
I scraped off all the old gasket material from the head's surface. I used a brass wire brush and Purple Power and went to town, and I'm sure I added some micro-scratches to the surface.
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Not taking any chances, I took it to the automotive machine shop.
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Aside from the scratches I made to the surface, the machinist concluded the head was previously planed on a belt sander. Add to that, the sealing surface wasn't parallel with the valve cover sealing surface, and this was evident by each pass of the tool only cutting one side of the surface.

That circular raised feature on the corner of the head, the machinist mentioned, represented the lowest point the head could be milled down to.

Head is all nice and sexy now, and I'll be adding some MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner) to get that carbon buildup off.
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Back on the block, it's time to plug up the passages and start scraping the surface clean. This will be a tough one...
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Discussion Starter #36
Updates:
Spent a good amount of time soaking the pistons and combustion chambers with the Mopar combustion chamber cleaner. Started with a toothbrush, and then moved to a harder-bristle brush. I suppose I could go all out and get it spotless, but this will do.
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The previous gasket was the composite type, and nothing short of those rotary tools would get the last bits of the residue off. The surface is smooth, and I used a good amount of brake cleaner (it was quickly available at the auto store) to scrub / razor / toothbrush clean. I also "swabbed" the head bolt holes to get the old oil and other fluids out.
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With both sealing surfaces as clean as I can get them to be, I taped them up and then continued with wiping down the rest of the engine bay. Also degreased the CYL sensor, distributor, intake manifold, bell housing, the block itself, and the accessory brackets. Wiped down the hoses / harnesses / fan shrouds as well, 30-yr dirt takes some elbow grease to scrub off.
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Going to clean the IACV tomorrow, head bolts, as well as replace the front main seal. I bought one of those crank / cam seal toolkits; in the past I've used the fork / big socket method and it's always been nerve-wracking. Finally, as I was wrapping up for the day, the FedEx man dropped off some new shoes! Thank you for the continued service during these times.
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Tire Rack had just released the Azenis RT660, but Discount Tire was selling the old 615s for $80 off. It was a hard decision, but $80 is not unsubstantial, and I've driven the previous gen 615 and liked them a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The head is back on and nice and tightened. I swear, lining up the head onto the block is not a one-person job. The Mrs. graciously helped me line up everything while I had literally positioned half my body into the engine bay so that I could hold the head steady. Tightening the head bolts almost felt like Russian Roulette; even with the bolts' threads and washers oiled up, you still feel that "pop" while tightening it down from 22lbft to the FSM's 49. You almost think something bad's about to happen.
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FWIW, the dowel pins fit very snug into the head gasket holes. The head gasket coolant passage holes were sized different than the block's passages. The gasket used was an 83mm bore, and I can actually see the larger circumference on the gasket's bored with respect to the cylinders'.

Another thing I noticed is how crazy the engine leans back. I know all the literature states "18degrees," but you don't really notice it until you have the other sub assemblies out of the way.
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I also made use of the crank seal tool, that thing is pretty cool. I'll be using it on the cam seals as well, hopefully it'll be just as straightforward.
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Not everything in life is ideal, and that's when I noticed the cam bearing caps were pretty scored. I'm guessing the engine oil must have been contaminated hard. The cams' journals were fortunately still smooth. I started checked valve lash on cylinder one, and it was way out of spec (as in no gap). I haven't connected the timing belt back on, but I'm wondering if the rest of the valves are also way out of spec, and might have put too much wear onto the bearing caps. One can only speculate, and at this point, I doubt I can find replacements. As it's a journal bearing, hopefully the surfaces won't see anymore wear in the future.
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Tomorrow will be raining, so hopefully I'll have some more time to clean up the intake manifold assembly attachments, bolt up some accessory brackets, and try and deftly put the new radiator in. That was a huge PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Quick question... I’m trying to remember where these two little brackets go. The mounting hole is 10mm, and it looks to hold those 3/8” size hose/wire harness looms. Thanks in advance.
C7E3A26E-2A2B-4DE1-B4B2-B58C90FB20EC.jpeg

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The first one seems to hold the line going down to Oil sensor, It is located on the driver side near the 3 bolts hold top shock mount.

For the 2nd one, maybe it is at back of the engine head (firewall side) holding of the looming wire or fuel hoses ????

Has been a while... I could be wrong for both !
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I will have to check that first one, i know there's a sea of black brackets. The only other location I could think of was the radiator fans, where it would also hold a harness loom. You can see the bracket is specifically angled, too.

For the second one, yes, I believe it was somewhere close to the firewall, but I just can't figure out. I hate it when things like this happens, I bagged and labeled them meticulously, but in the heat of "needing to remove more stuff," i forget to label every single thing.
 
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