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Hello all, i sorry for my english) When i can find "o0LudeRacer0o" to asking about swap dualcarb to pgm-fi? I find he post, but her e-mail disable and post without photo(
if the email is disabled the person is no longer part of the community and a lot of the pictures are disabled due to most of them being on the photobucket webhosting site which now charges to allow sharing.

But more than likely the pictures are no longer available.
 

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Yes, i have FI head, wiring and many other, but i think connect wiring will be hard, so i want more info and picture, maybe in englishspeaking man their is analog drive2?
 

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Yes, i have FI head, wiring and many other, but i think connect wiring will be hard, so i want more info and picture, maybe in englishspeaking man their is analog drive2?
Here is a thread for an H22 swap thread from carb https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271916to FI and the H22 swap.
The information and pictures can help you decide what route you want to go on your conversion.

Here is MustardCat's link for the swap - http://prelude3g.com/p3g/powertrain/b20a3tob20a5/b20a34tob20a5.htm
 

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mustardcat has the write up posted under the header power train at http://prelude3g.com

no detailed pictures though. Might try his youtube video feed.
 

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Hi all,

Just bought an 89 2.0SI 4WS and so far am loving it, although it does need a bit of work. Right now it is need of some suspension work and I was wanting to get an alignment done afterwards. In reading up on this process it seems there is a pin needed and I had heard nailbender was, at one point, making these tools. I cannot PM him as my account is too new, so hopefully he'll find this message.

Alternatively does anyone in the Seattle area know of any shops that can handle an alignment on the 4WS?

Thanks, and glad to be a part of the 3rd Gen community!
 

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Hi all,

Just bought an 89 2.0SI 4WS and so far am loving it, although it does need a bit of work. Right now it is need of some suspension work and I was wanting to get an alignment done afterwards. In reading up on this process it seems there is a pin needed and I had heard nailbender was, at one point, making these tools. I cannot PM him as my account is too new, so hopefully he'll find this message.

Alternatively does anyone in the Seattle area know of any shops that can handle an alignment on the 4WS?

Thanks, and glad to be a part of the 3rd Gen community!

There's a thread where he's selling these. But I have one I can sell you if you can't get a hold of him.


Edit: Here's his e-mail address:
[email protected]
 

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Power loss

I recently bought an 89 prelude si, it starts and idles very well and you can drive it, but there is major power loss when driving. I’m new to Honda’s and very clueless. Any ideas?
 

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I recently bought an 89 prelude si, it starts and idles very well and you can drive it, but there is major power loss when driving. I’m new to Honda’s and very clueless. Any ideas?
Welcome to the forum Wyatt. You aren't giving us much information, and there's no way we can help you with anything more than a guess at this point. What have you done to the car since you bought it? Did it have this power loss when you bought it, or is that more recent? Auto or manual trans? How many miles on the engine? Any check engine light or stored trouble codes? Was the car stored for any length of time before you bought it? If it's a manual trans, is your loss of power due to a slipping clutch?

Answering those questions will give us more information to help you. Here is my mental list of things I do when I buy a 3rd gen prelude, unless I have documented proof that they were done very recently...

*Change all fluids. Engine oil and filter, transmission fluid (and filter for auto, if equipped), coolant flush, brake fluid flush, clutch fluid flush (if manual trans).

*Replace fuel filter

*Tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap, and rotor. Replace air filter. Check/adjust idle. Check/adjust timing. Check/adjust valve lash.

*Check timing belt for any signs of wear or damage. I usually replace the timing belt unless I have reason to believe it has been done recently.

*Check wheel bearings.

*Remove wheels and check the brakes.

*Check axle boots and suspension component boots (I usually do this before buying).


I may have forgotten something since I'm working from memory here, but you get the idea. There's really no way for us to diagnose your problem without more information, and you likely have some work to do before we'll be able to help you much.
 

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I need a nut to go on a clutch hardline into the master cylinder for a 1990 2.1, i know someone who has an 89 2.0 parts car that i can tear them out of but would they be the same nuts? Having a pretty horrible time trying to find these
 

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I don't totally understand your question. Are you going to swap the entire metal tubing hard line from the 89 to your 91? If yes they are the same. If your talking about the nut on the tubing going into the master cylinder only, you can't just replace it without some work. The tubing is flared at the end to hold it on. You could cut the end off and take the nut to the autoparts store and buy some straight brake hardline with a matching nut. I assume it is metric tubing but I don't know. The problem is if you can make the old hardline reach the master cylinder after you reflare the end of the stock tubing. You have to use a flare nut tubing kit to recreate the end for it to work right. You can borrow with money down a good flaring kit from the auto parts store to do this or to make a patch. It is not the easiest thing to flare the end of the tubing correctly or even ben it with out kinking it.

If there are no obstructions just swapping the line would be the way to go. Sorry if I overstepped but it sounded like you didn't know what you where talking about unless it was poor wording.
 

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Intake manifolds for a 3rd gen b21a1? Anybody have one that they would recommend/is there any still made?
There are very few OE parts that are still made, but nothing like motors, transmissions, intake manifolds, cranks, throttle bodies, exhaust manifolds. etc..
 

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I don't totally understand your question. Are you going to swap the entire metal tubing hard line from the 89 to your 91? If yes they are the same. If your talking about the nut on the tubing going into the master cylinder only, you can't just replace it without some work. The tubing is flared at the end to hold it on. You could cut the end off and take the nut to the autoparts store and buy some straight brake hardline with a matching nut. I assume it is metric tubing but I don't know. The problem is if you can make the old hardline reach the master cylinder after you reflare the end of the stock tubing. You have to use a flare nut tubing kit to recreate the end for it to work right. You can borrow with money down a good flaring kit from the auto parts store to do this or to make a patch. It is not the easiest thing to flare the end of the tubing correctly or even ben it with out kinking it.

If there are no obstructions just swapping the line would be the way to go. Sorry if I overstepped but it sounded like you didn't know what you where talking about unless it was poor wording.
It was poor wording however i did get the issue figured out, what i wondered is if the nut would be the same between the 89 and my 90, which it was, everything is good new hardline is in
 

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Does anyone have the xenon body kit from andy’s autosports? Is the kit just covers that fit over your bumpers/skirts? Does it come as an entire bumper? Any answers would be great
 

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its a facia glued on. 1funryd sells them or used to. It is a much better then the fiberglass duraflex crap.
 

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Valve cover nipple

I kinda snapped the plastic where the hose connects for my pcv intake on my valve cover. Any ideas where I can find a replacement or remedy it so I can put a breather on or reattach the hose.
 

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if it is the pcv hose and it is on the valve cover end. Just replace the pcv. If your referring to the pcv grommet I think rockauto has them. If you didn't want to pay shipping just get the part number from their site and buy or order in store at your local autoparts store. If you can't find a part number let me know and I will get you one. You do have a fuel injected engine right? If so the other breather hose connects to the valve cover METAL nipple. I couldn't see how you would break it. Be careful removing the grommet because if it has never been replaced it will probably be brittle and could break up dropping a piece inside the top of the head. When you remove it keep all the pieces if it breaks up and make sure you can put them all together in your hand or on the bench top to make sure you have all the pieces. If you don't I would remove the valve cover and get them. You don't want them plugging up the oil drain passage back through the engine to the oil pan.
 
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