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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a 1997 Honda Prelude H22a 5spd with vtec at 203k miles. I rode in it just a week before it blew, it was nice... He hit a pothole with his rpms around 4kish and his autotensioner gave way and made the belt go loose. It still turns over but it wont start. It burns oil like hell. But he sold it to me for $800. Its now in my barn ready to get the engine pulled.

I know for sure it needs a new timing belt and a manual tensioner (1320 performance?), but for everything else im not sure. Ive heard valves bend on these cars but wont destroy anything so it should be saveable if it ran good before. I was thinking of pulling the engine out and just inspecting valves and doing a rebuild on the bottom end. Any idea on a good kit? Ive seen the one listed below and my friend said I might need oversized rings which they allow choosing the size of. Whats your guys thoughts? I dont have the money for a new engine so im trying to rebuild this one. I want it to be a daily, no performance stuff done on it atleast for the time being. But I do some spirited driving occasionally. Thanks!

 

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I would replace the timing belt, do a compression and leak down test. But seeing as you've tried turning the car over after the tensioner gave up, remove the head and inspect the valves that way. I fear there may be something bent if many attempts at starting were made.

You do not need oversized rings unless a shop was working on the block - and in that case leave it to the shop.

If the cylinder walls look good and have no scoring, you can either simply replace the rings with fresh factory rings or leave it be. Personally if the walls look good, i'd leave them be. I've had severe oil burning issues in the past and it turned out to just be bad valve seals.

I highly recommend sticking with factory Honda parts if you intend to keep the car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would replace the timing belt, do a compression and leak down test. But seeing as you've tried turning the car over after the tensioner gave up, remove the head and inspect the valves that way. I fear there may be something bent if many attempts at starting were made.

You do not need oversized rings unless a shop was working on the block - and in that case leave it to the shop.

If the cylinder walls look good and have no scoring, you can either simply replace the rings with fresh factory rings or leave it be. Personally if the walls look good, i'd leave them be. I've had severe oil burning issues in the past and it turned out to just be bad valve seals.

I highly recommend sticking with factory Honda parts if you intend to keep the car.
Appreciate it man. Ill look into all that. Worse case scenario I might try swapping a F20b I found down the road for like $900. Heard its like a direct swap. We'll see once the engine is pulled within a few days. First time doing it and I believe I have mostly everything disconnect. Cant really tell if anythings connected behind the engine... agh
 

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Appreciate it man. Ill look into all that. Worse case scenario I might try swapping a F20b I found down the road for like $900. Heard its like a direct swap. We'll see once the engine is pulled within a few days. First time doing it and I believe I have mostly everything disconnect. Cant really tell if anythings connected behind the engine... agh

Behind the motor, you need to disconnect the following;

return fuel line
fuel feed line
primary and secondary o2 sensors
heater core hoses
power steering high pressure line (can be moved out of the way if disconnected from the pump)
power steering pressure sensor
evap lines from bulkhead to intake manifold (I believe there are only 1 or 2)
shifter cables
rear mount (just remove the horizontal bolt to the engine bracket)
vacuum hoses going from intake to intake manifold/vacuum box beneath manifold if still there)
axles


Besides that, i'm sure you've disconnected everything else you could set your eyes on just by looking at the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Behind the motor, you need to disconnect the following;

return fuel line
fuel feed line
primary and secondary o2 sensors
heater core hoses
power steering high pressure line (can be moved out of the way if disconnected from the pump)
power steering pressure sensor
evap lines from bulkhead to intake manifold (I believe there are only 1 or 2)
shifter cables
rear mount (just remove the horizontal bolt to the engine bracket)
vacuum hoses going from intake to intake manifold/vacuum box beneath manifold if still there)
axles


Besides that, i'm sure you've disconnected everything else you could set your eyes on just by looking at the engine bay.
I believe I have everything disconnected besides just the driver axle (Ill need to take the axle nut out, wont come out otherwise). Main issue is the chain I got with the hoist is too long so I think ill head to harbor freight for an engine leveler. Can my hoist lift the engine on the 1/4 ton setting?
 

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I believe I have everything disconnected besides just the driver axle (Ill need to take the axle nut out, wont come out otherwise). Main issue is the chain I got with the hoist is too long so I think ill head to harbor freight for an engine leveler. Can my hoist lift the engine on the 1/4 ton setting?

It sure can, as mentioned above!

The engine leveler is a life saver with these cars. You'll still need a short chain though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It sure can, as mentioned above!

The engine leveler is a life saver with these cars. You'll still need a short chain though.
I got an engine leveler from a friend that uses 4 small chains with L brackets on the end... Whats the best spots to hook these? Hopefully yanking it out tomorrow and inspectingnit Wednesday morning for bad valves and cylinder walls
 

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I got an engine leveler from a friend that uses 4 small chains with L brackets on the end... Whats the best spots to hook these? Hopefully yanking it out tomorrow and inspectingnit Wednesday morning for bad valves and cylinder walls
They all come with 4 chains and L brackets, you still need chain to reach the transmission though.

Hook it to the lift points on the front and rear of the transmission as well as the power steering bracket lift point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So the engine is out, trans disconnected and head is off. Cylinder walls are smooth, pistons dont have any bare metal areas of contact. Valves also seem to be flush with the head. Maybe I got lucky?

I guess I just need new timing, new valve stem seals (oil burning), and other general engine gaskets. Anything else I should do or shouldnt do? Lol

Tell me what you guys think from the pictures.

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