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prince of darkness
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210 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey, using my bros sn, don't remember the password for mine.
Anyways, I searched everywhere for an answer to this problem, so dont want to sound like a noob lol. Here goes... have an 01 sh... started having the spongy clutch pedal and trouble getting in an out of gears, all that shit.
So my bro and I bled a few times, didnt change much. There was a little fluid leak it looked like on the master, but slave was fine. Immediately replaced BOTH. Bled the line like ten times, even ran like a gallon of fluid thru it a couple times. After that, felt good for like a minute then as soon as I shifted from first to second, pedal went spongy again. Checked all the lines, no leaks.. Is there something Im missing? Honda mechs had no clue lol ( what a surprise!).... talked to a honda specialist, he said I needed a clutch job for $1500, only thing is, the clutch grabs just fine. The problem feels hydraulic. Sry for the long post, but Im at a dead end, didnt really want to waste a bunch of money if its something i can do myself. Give me whatever you got!!!
Thanx patrick
 

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yea im having the same problem i did the slave/master as well and still spongy but again clutch grabs fine so im just going to replace my clutch and fly wheel with the exedy/fidanza combo and a stainless steal clutch line and rebleed everything and hopefully everything go back to normal lol
thanks, patrick
 

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prince of darkness
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210 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
A clutch job for $1500 is a ripoff. When was the last time you replaced the clutch? How many miles are on the current one?
Ive only had the car for about 20000 miles of its approx. 100k... to my knowledge its never been replaced, but it seems kind of soon. I usually drive it pretty good, mostly fwy, havnt hammered it to much. I got refered to this honda/acura guy by the mechs at the honda dealer, they said it would be like $900 at the dealer, but thats still a lotta $$. Like i said, it i dont want to blow the money if thats not the prob. i was hopin maybe someone had seen this before an had a good answer. The prob seems to be with the engaging/disengaging..... if the clutch is bad then i will spend the $$ to replace it...... not gonna do it at some cheap place tho, an have some foolio mess up the ATTS, know what im sayin.
 

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Hmm are you sure the slave cylinder is moving? It should actuate about ~1" with the clutch floored.

The next option after master and slave cylinders would be the pressure plate spring gone bad...
 

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prince of darkness
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210 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
OH yeah, forgot to add, did you adjust the clutch pedal after changing the cylinders?
Yes,yes, and yes lol......... even bench bled the master cyl..... slave moves as it is supposed to. the pedal adj. doesnt adjust far enough to do anything worthwhile, there isnt any real pressure til about halfway to the floor... at one point while bleeding there was pressure all the way to the top, but it went away quickly. It does have metal clutch lines, how common is it for those to have air leaks maybe?... there is no fluid leaks anywhere, but it seem like air is gettin back in after its bled and closed off.
 

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The next option after master and slave cylinders would be the pressure plate spring gone bad...
I was having the same problem you you are describing. I replaced my slave and master cylinders as well to no avail. My clutch was still grabbing fine, just felt like junk and made the car difficult and not very fun to drive. This was my problem. Its time for a clutch job.
 

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The hard lines dont leak unless they've been bent back and forth numerous times and causes a crack. There are several other rubber lines on the clutch system as well, double check those. It runs along the fire wall to the passenger side frame then over the tranny. Has the current pressure plate EVER been taken out? I dont mean replaced or anything, but has been just taken out to check or whatever? With the way you're describing the symptoms, reminds me of all my pressure plate bolts coming loose after I had replaced the whole clutch assembly. And I should say 1500 for a clutch job is just plain highway robbery, especially since theres no guarantee it'll fix the problem.
 

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If you can get a hose fabricated, I would get a solid SS line going from the master to slave cylinder. So nice to avoid all the other junk in between :D

I did this for my 5 spd swap and used 6'. You can get away with 5.5' or even 5' i'll say 5.5' at least.
 

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prince of darkness
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210 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hey, so I just wanted to kinda update this with answer, just in case anyone actually does search ( hah) hoping it might help someone out.
Went to a clutch shop yesterday, to have them check it out. The new master cyl. I put in myself ended up being bad....they put a new one in and pressure bled it. Felt good for a couple of drives around the shop, after that it jsut went to shit. had one of their more exp mech drive it and he immediately said that there is a broken spring on the clutch disc itself. They are at the moment working on gettn the new one in... gave a hellluva deal i think. under $500 for complete job with new exedy oem clutch.
Thanx for everyones ideas.
 

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:-(ahhh..this makes me cry.... i guess this means im prolly gonna be needin to order some clutch parts, got my line done, hopefully ill have time to put it on monday, been way to busy to do anything, but let us know if everything is good after you get it out of the shop
 

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Bearderator
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8,519 Posts
just wanna add always check the rubber hydraulic lines for kinks. Buddy of mine was having trouble with his 5spd car for weeks, trying to figure out what it was and using up fluid. I took a look at it cause I had had similar problems with my civic in the past, first thing I find is a kink in the lines, stopping all pressure from going to the clutch pedal.
 

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prince of darkness
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210 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
no you're just an idiot. besides the fact that the only rubber part of the clutch line is 10 inches long and not in a kinking position you should really quit repeating everything your dad's tells you.
 

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Premium Member
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433 Posts
Did you go OEM replacement? Because some aftermarket slaves and masters are just terrible, I went through 3 slave cyls in a week, because they were all faulty, then I went too Honda.
 

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I need a Clutch Master Cylinder too soon.. a new one from Honda is cheaper than an aftermarket rebuilt one... what's up with that?
 

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prince of darkness
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210 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
yes oem is the best. order from majestichonda.com for the best deal. my brother ( the one with the clutch problems ) did get an oem and it did work a lot better than the cheap knockoff.
 
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