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Discussion Starter #1
Is this block good to hone? I think it looks like its already been honed, I know about the messed up cylinder but do the walls look too thin to anyone? Also I think its a base block cause of the oil filter thing but can anyone tell for sure?




Thanks for looking

Edit: and why are the walls white? Every other H22 I see has black walls
 

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It looks questionable to me, when you drag a fingernail across it how noticable is the drag? I don't know of any shops in the area that can properly hone an FRM sleeved block however (IIRC you are in the souther NH area) and when you have it this far apart it really might make sense to just sleeve it and get forged goodies. But thats JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well its not mine. The guy whos selling it says the cylinder wear wont catch a finger but you can see it. Are you from around here?
 

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Take it to a machine shop and they will tell you for sure. If you have to go farther than .25 then you will need to use iron liners or resleeve
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Well its not mine. The guy whos selling it says the cylinder wear wont catch a finger but you can see it. Are you from around here?
Yeah I live over in nashua. RJT Machine in lawrence is pretty good you should have them check it out (like blake is suggesting). I would check with RJT to see if they are familliar with machining FRM. The instructions are pretty specific for a hone:

To hone FRM liners, perform the following:
· Use a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer stones for nonferrous metals. The honing pressure should be 200-300 kPa (2-3 kg-cm2, 29-43 psi).
· Use an oil type honing oil.
· Hone at 45-50 rpm to a 60 degree-crosshatch pattern.
· Do not stroke the hone more than 20 cycles.
· After honing, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles by washing with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately. Never use solvent; it will only redistribute the grit.
· Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it isn’t deep enough to catch your fingernail, and doesn’t run the full length of the bore.

(copied from NHTSA Service bulletin SB618958 #1893)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I live over in nashua. RJT Machine in lawrence is pretty good you should have them check it out (like blake is suggesting). I would check with RJT to see if they are familliar with machining FRM. The instructions are pretty specific for a hone:

To hone FRM liners, perform the following:
· Use a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer stones for nonferrous metals. The honing pressure should be 200-300 kPa (2-3 kg-cm2, 29-43 psi).
· Use an oil type honing oil.
· Hone at 45-50 rpm to a 60 degree-crosshatch pattern.
· Do not stroke the hone more than 20 cycles.
· After honing, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles by washing with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately. Never use solvent; it will only redistribute the grit.
· Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it isn’t deep enough to catch your fingernail, and doesn’t run the full length of the bore.

(copied from NHTSA Service bulletin SB618958 #1893)
No shit! Really wow, your car is black with no spoiler? If it is ive seen you a few times. I know there are a few ludes in Nashua, ~5 or so, we should have a meet lol.
 

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Yep black with bronze rims (enkies) carbon hood and trunk with dark tint all around. I work afternoons and would be cool to get together sometime but the lude is about to be going into the shop soon for a little more TLC
 

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Yep black with bronze rims (enkies) carbon hood and trunk with dark tint all around. I work afternoons and would be cool to get together sometime but the lude is about to be going into the shop soon for a little more TLC
We should. Mines going for some work too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Where in Nashua you from? I used to work at the Circuit City in Nashua (DW HIghway). I used to go everywhere in Nashua.
I live across the bridge in Hudson. I have lots of friends in Nashua though and Im there almost every day lol, nothing to do in Hudson.
 
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