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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok whin i get in my car in the mornings and head down the streat it starts to miss like it is only running on 2 or 3 cylenders (and yes i let the car worm up at least 15 min). thin i get in it latter on to go to work ( i work nights) and it runs fine no problems. it also has no power till i hit about 4000 rpm's ad thin the car just jumps and halls a$$, and it dusnt matter if the throttle is to the floor or just down enuff to speed up. the cap and rotor are good and the plug wirers are good i cleand the plugs and regaped to .35 if i recall. any ideas as to why it is doing this?
 

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did this start after you gapped them? The gap seems a little small.
 

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does it go every single time at 4000 rpm? hows your coil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
did this start after you gapped them? The gap seems a little small.
no it has bin gaped that way for months and that is what they wer at whin i got the car.

does it go every single time at 4000 rpm? hows your coil?
some times if i am lucky it will get power at 3500 but mostely at 4000 and pritty much every time. the coil looks to be fine i have evin tryed hooking up another coil and it didnt seem to make a dif.
 

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Get a new set of NGK v powers and gap them at .039-.044 and tell us if that works.
 

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Have you checked the timing with a light? And does the vacuum advance work? The timing at idle (warmed up) should be somewhere around 15-20 degrees. Without the vacuum advance it will be much lower, probably closer to 0 degrees.

C|
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Get a new set of NGK v powers and gap them at .039-.044 and tell us if that works.
ok i will try that it isnt going to get much past freezing tomarow so it may be a day or two

Have you checked the timing with a light? And does the vacuum advance work? The timing at idle (warmed up) should be somewhere around 15-20 degrees. Without the vacuum advance it will be much lower, probably closer to 0 degrees.

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and i will re check my timeing also. i am not sure if it is working on acount i can disconect the vacume advance and it idles at the same rpm and dusnt seem to change the way it runs so that may be part of my problem, infact i cant evin feel any vacume comeing from eather hose going to the dizzy.
 

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ok i will try that it isnt going to get much past freezing tomarow so it may be a day or two
Mmm, yeah. It's -2F here right now. The high tomorrow is supposed to be +1F. Can't wait.



and i will re check my timeing also. i am not sure if it is working on acount i can disconect the vacume advance and it idles at the same rpm and dusnt seem to change the way it runs so that may be part of my problem, infact i cant evin feel any vacume comeing from eather hose going to the dizzy.
That's a problem. There should always be vacuum on the one line to the distributor. When it's cold both lines should have vacuum.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mmm, yeah. It's -2F here right now. The high tomorrow is supposed to be +1F. Can't wait.





That's a problem. There should always be vacuum on the one line to the distributor. When it's cold both lines should have vacuum.

C|
wow its not that cold here but it is 12f today and will only get up to 35 if lucky.i will duble check the vacume and see.
 

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did you get the motor wet just before this happened..or is there super high humidity where you are?

my car does this exact thing whenever i drown the distributor at the car wash.

stumbles to 4000, then runs out just fine. once it dries out, no problems.

you might need to check your rotor and cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
did you get the motor wet just before this happened..or is there super high humidity where you are?

my car does this exact thing whenever i drown the distributor at the car wash.

stumbles to 4000, then runs out just fine. once it dries out, no problems.

you might need to check your rotor and cap.
ok i do have vacume at both hoses. no infact the humidity here is 7 and i havent wached the car in quite some time. it dus run better whin it woarms up but no matter what i do it just dusnt have much power till 4000. it dus seem to get a bit at 3500 but at 4000 it just wants to go, and that would be great if i could take it past 5000 but if i do it smokes like nothing els. i think its just time to eather retire the car or try to get another engine for it, but if i do go thrue the truble of swaping engines i dont really want to go back compleatly stock i would like a bit more power out of it. i just cant afored to do much right now and i dont have any choises at the pick and pull no one has a 2.0 si and i lost my chance to get a wrecked 3rd gen.
 

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What color is the smoke that you get at 5k+ rpm? It's starting to sound like a problem in the fuel delivery, almost like it's getting too much until you get to the higher revs, then it's got enough rpms and load to burn efficiently....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What color is the smoke that you get at 5k+ rpm? It's starting to sound like a problem in the fuel delivery, almost like it's getting too much until you get to the higher revs, then it's got enough rpms and load to burn efficiently....
the smoke is blue and i am pritty sue it is oil as to the fact that i have no oil leaks but i have to put a quart or so in it every cuple of weeks to every month if i take it past 5000.
 

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You might have some bad rings my friend check your oil level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
You might have some bad rings my friend check your oil level.
well i would if some one had sent me a bloody dipstick toob. i have a dip stick but no toob for it to go in so the hole is just pluged and i have to go buy the oil light on the dash.

and i am pritty shure the rings may be shot the car has over 200,000 miles on it and the last owner didnt take much care of the car. he braged about driveing it at 140mph and suposidly faster and whin i went to look at it and he pulled it around for me i could tell he trashed it. hell the clutch disk was shatterd and all the sprinds were just flotting in there.
 

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I hate to say it, but if it's burning oil that bad, you might as well rebuild it. Or better yet, find another motor to put in, then rebuild the original one. That way you can rebuild yours and still run the car while the rebuilding is going on...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
what about just doing a rering on it and some new bearings?
 

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New rings and bearings would be fine if the pistons and cylinders are not too worn. But the only way to know that is to pull the head and check the cylinder walls. If there is any sort of ridge around the top of the cylinders they need to be bored. In that case you would need new pistons too.

If the car is still in decent shape it's probably worth a rebuild. For that I would definitely pick up a used core from the JY and rebuild that. If you have an SI you can get a core from any '86-'89 Accord as well as an SI 'lude.

Unless you really want to go all out for performance most of the upgrades are going to be with the head, intake and exhaust. A well built stock bottom end will handle a fair bit more power than what they produced from the factory.

C|
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
New rings and bearings would be fine if the pistons and cylinders are not too worn. But the only way to know that is to pull the head and check the cylinder walls. If there is any sort of ridge around the top of the cylinders they need to be bored. In that case you would need new pistons too.

If the car is still in decent shape it's probably worth a rebuild. For that I would definitely pick up a used core from the JY and rebuild that. If you have an SI you can get a core from any '86-'89 Accord as well as an SI 'lude.

Unless you really want to go all out for performance most of the upgrades are going to be with the head, intake and exhaust. A well built stock bottom end will handle a fair bit more power than what they produced from the factory.

C|
i have checked the junk yeards and there arnt any ludes or accords with a good engin. in fact there is only one in town that evin has theas cars and the engines are already gon and the cars are striped. i ws lucky to fined the dx tail lights that i found, i dont know guys i may just drive it till it quits and sell it or some thing. dont get me wrong i love driveing the car, but i just cant afored to do a rebuild or to spend $700 + on a good engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok now the car is starting to back fire so it has to be a timeing problem or the timeing belt.
 
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