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@Vtecmec @EvilChuckie666 @Wing8806



Also, I made this compression tester. See any flaws before I try it out?
Hi
The only problem with the compression tester is that it doesn't seem to have a 1 way valve? (to hold the reading) so the gauge will just flick up and down with every stroke, and if the vacuum is really only -6 that would indicate a valve timing issue.(VTEC on at idle?)
 

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1998 Honda Prelude
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Hi
The only problem with the compression tester is that it doesn't seem to have a 1 way valve? (to hold the reading) so the gauge will just flick up and down with every stroke, and if the vacuum is really only -6 that would indicate a valve timing issue.(VTEC on at idle?)

I should be seeing a code if I were stuck in VTEC, right?

And yeah I thought of that after I posted a pic of the compression tester, I used an industrial air hose end and female connector to solve that :) only now I still need to get to the auto parts store because my battery has a bad cell now. If it wasnt an hour and a half walk I'd have been there by now. I work 6 days from 10-9 so that's an undertaking.
 

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1998 Honda Prelude
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Not if it's purely mechanical issue, the ecu won't detect it?
So I took off my VTEC assembly, and I found it was clogged with my assembly lube I used almost a year ago that I got from O'Reilly's. This assembly lube had a granular material about it, something I never seen before but the bottle assured me that this was all going to get dissolved immediately in oil and was to provide a thick viscosity reducing the chances of any dry start. I know this is what it is because I had taken off my VTec assembly before and it also was gooped up in this stuff. The button was moderately difficult to manually press down, making me believe that it wasn't all the way shut due to the granular material. This could have provided enough pressure just to operate the 4th and 3rd pins where I heard the sound coming from.

All this is speculative as I still need to reassemble and operate the car.

If I get my can of carb & parts cleaner, wrap the straw with tape or something and hold it up against the port that oil goes through to activate all the VTec pins, could that theoretically manually operate VTech and clean them?

In my spare time, I got a sheet of carbon paper from work and then pressed it up against my timing cam gears, then taped that paper to a piece of wood and poked dots in the wood, then I drilled holes and tap them to add ribs, and then slid dowels through the holes. It slides perfectly into the cam gear notches. If I use bungee straps one end holding the wood and another end on my hood to create tension, you think that will hold my timing in place so I can remove my cam? Just the one side the other side would stay put.
 

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I feel you would be better off reinstalling the auto tensioner tool and compressing the tensioner back in. You're already aware of how much tension these belts are under as it is. Trying to cut a corner here could damage the belt or more, so just be cautious with whichever method you decide to go with and work safely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
[
Not if it's purely mechanical issue, the ecu won't detect it?
I'd imagine the knock sensor at least would be saying something.

I had a moment of bliss today. Fleeting, but there was a moment where the sounds disappeared again...

When I apply a little pressure to the throttle, the engine bogs and almost stalls, if I go all in, my engine sounds like hell, and when I release the throttle, it stalls, but when I crank it back up, I get a fleeting moment where the sounds dissapear, maybe 5-10 seconds. Then they return.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
It's pointing to the VTEC system? did you disassemble it at any stage? (the rockers/cams etc.)
Oh yeah, I disassembled the entire cylinder head when I had to get a new one (scored a port and polished head and intake mani for $300something on ebay) and moved everything over.

@Wing8806 @EvilChuckie666 @Vtecmec

Alas,. the great mystery has a new clue. I changed my oil over a high strength magnet in the oil pan, no metal shavings. Ran the motor for a bit, moved the magnet around under the pan and listened for anything moving around, didnt hear anything. Changed oil again. No metal.

Then I said screw it I'm taking off the pan. The sound goes away, and seriously sounds like it's coming from the cylinder head, and the oil pump suction tube isn't clogged b/c I ran it with the valve cover off and oil pressure seemed fine. No light anyway. No metal in oil, but screw it, let's take the time and make sure this has nothing to do with rod knock.

I got the pan off and there was obviously still some oil in the pan and I put my magnets up to it and....
Alligator Crocodilia Road surface Nile crocodile Terrestrial animal


The "oil" defied gravity.

When I rebuilt this motor, I got the best of the best gaskets and seals. I checked everything 10x, followed strict detail on torque, replacing every single bolt and nut that I touched keeping "bolt stretching" in my mind. I know preludes consume oil/are known for always having some oil leak somewhere but not my car, not when I was done with it. @Wing8806 helped me figure out this oil pressure problem I was plagued with and when that was all said and done, since the oil bridge was off and the bearings were 24 years old I replaced them

I replaced the bearings and thrust washers with KING XP performance bearings, I replaced the nuts and bolts to their housings. I got plastigauges and checked them twice.

My oil level and quality was perfect when this happened.

I hit VTEC one time and these bearings got fucked.

KingXP is about to get a mouthful from me. I highly doubt they'll do anything and I'm certain their "warranty" covers the bearing and not the damage their failure would do (which they might as well not have a warranty at all) especially since the repair wasn't done by a "licensed mechanic."

... Unless one of y'all are a licensed mechanic with the power to write me up a receipt... I mean only if that wouldn't get you in trouble or anything.
 

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JDM 4th Gen Prelude 2.2 Vtec Turbo
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Ahh, that's not great.

I used king bearings and have had no problems, is it possible they were starved of oil? (if they are the problem)

Given you found sludge in the vtec spool valve and you've had oil pressure issues, it is possible that the feed to the main bearings is gunked up too.
 
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