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1,942 Posts
I have the instructions at home and I don't have a scanner, but here is what is involved from memory:

1. relocate battery to the trunk
2. install inline fuel pump (drag style) (do not use the intank pump that comes with the kit, it will not give enough fuel pressure unless you have bigger injectors)
3. install vortech boost dependant fpr, connect vacume line
4. replace front motor mount
5. drill hole for intake (if you have the cold air version)
6. relocate radiator overflow tank
7. drain oil and coolant
8. remove bumper and radiator
9. remove oil pan and get oil return adapter welded on, using a new gasket and hondabond replace oil pan.
10. remove oil pressure sensor, put t in block and run the oil line to the front of the engine.
11. remove exhaust manifold (have liquid wrench ready)
12. install turbo manifold and turbo, connect the oil line, bend oil dipstick
13. install oil drain tube
14. install coolant lines (2) run them to the turbo
15. install turbo downpipe
16. install charge pipe between the turbo outlet and t-body
17. install intake pipe and air filter (in fender)
18. install check valve to the map sensor vacume line
19. replace radiator and bumper
20. install BOV, connect to vacume line
21. install wastegate vacume line
22. install boost gauge
23. add new oil filter and fill up oil
24. add new coolant
25. pre lube the turbo
26. start car and add coolant as necessary, be scared, very scared.
27. rev the engine and listen to the bad ass sounds, look for leaks
28. drive around the block and go into boost a little, stop, pop hood check for leaks

I'll post my write up if I can find it.

1,942 Posts
Here is my turbo install write up from 2 years ago:

I started doing the dirty work on installing my Ludespeed kit today. I had already installed the fuel pump, FMU, and check valve weeks ago. So today I decided to start getting the actual turbo installed. I started working at 8 and finished at 11:30. I had plans today so I couldn't work all day long. Also it started raining last night and I was getting cold after lying on the wet ground for two and a half hours.

First thing I worked on was getting the EGR tube removed and the blocker plate installed. This took me much longer then expected. No, not stuck bolts like you would expect. I was able to remove all the bolts no problem. The problem I ran into was that I was so cold that I dropped my screwdriver bit and one of the nuts down behind the intake manifold and I couldn't get them out. I couldn't feel for them or see them. So, I ended up removing a bunch of hoses trying to find them and I dumped coolant all over the engine and ground. I guess those hoses still hold a lot of coolant even after you drain the radiator. And to make matters worse, I still can't find that nut and bit!

Since I was getting fustrated, I decided to switch over to another task. I decided to put the K&N valve cover breather. A quick, simple, and fast task to complete. That little filter looks really cool sitting there. The only problem is that there are a bunch of metal tubes that run next to it and I had to remove these so that I could fit the filter. Since I needed to re-attach one of the coolant lines that used one of those metal tubes I had to find a way to connect them without the tubes. I ended up using my dremel to cut one tube to a small length separate from the other tubes and attached a longer tube onto the existing one. I will have to post a picture of this to better explain it.

Next was the front engine mount. This was pretty easy to do, because I spent about a half hour attempting to take it off last weekend and I had figured out exactly how to do it. I first removed the radiator fan completely. Then I removed all the bolts from both parts and it came right off. When I had tried it before I tried to just remove the big fat bolt that goes through the rubber mount that holds both parts together. Well, the nut I was using my big ass breaker bar with 6 ft cheater bar on was welded onto the mount. So that is why over 600 lbs/ft of torque couldn't remove it. It came off easily when this time I took out the whole part and broke loose the correct side. The new ludespeed mount looks cool.

Well, now I got up enough guts to get under the car and start removing the big items. So I jacked up the car, put jack stands in the correct places, blocked the back wheel, and left the jack as extra safety. I had already sprayed liquid wrench on all the exhaust bolts earlier so I had to just get down and start having fun with 14MM and the largest breaker bar Craftsman makes. This was easy; I quickly removed all the exhaust bolts, no problem. I guess having done three header installs on Hondas helps. I removed the down pipe and got the hell out from the under the car. Sorry, I just have some phobia where I imagine that oil pan crushing my face.

So that's where I'm at now. So tomorrow I have to remove the oil pan, finish removing the exhaust manifold, install the oil return fitting, and install that actual turbo and piping. Yeah!!! Hopefully tomorrow night I will be doing a write up telling how fast my car is....

So, sorry not complete yet.

Sunday morning I got up and started on the install again. Luckily the rain stopped for the day so it was a little easier to work. I first worked on removing the top of the exhaust manifold from the head. It is easy to get all the little bolts off the head studs, but that darn manifold gets stuck when you try to pull it out. I had to remove the heat shield from the alternator in order to get it out. Next I took some cleaner and sprayed it on a rag and cleaned up the exhaust ports on the head as good as I could. There was a lot of carbon build up and it took a lot of time to get it off. Next I attached the turbo to the new exhaust manifold and installed it. I didn't bolt everything down tight yet, just enough to hold it.

Now I started on the oil pan. This turned out to be a real bitch of a job. First I measured up the oil return line and made a mark on the pan so I know where to place the fitting. I drained the oil and removed the filter. While I was waiting for the oil to drain completely I started removing the oil pressure switch from the block. Removing the hardened plastic off of the switch was nearly impossible and I ended up breaking the switch. But I did get it off. I installed all the new brass fittings and connected up the oil return line. I had to buy a new oil pressure switch (luckily it's cheap) and install that. I hope these fittings don't leak! I used liquid thread sealant, but that stuff doesn't seem to harden up. It just stays in a liquid form I guess. I should have used Teflon tape. Or maybe I was suppose to kneed the tube first? Anyway, I have a feeling I might be removing these fittings again. Now, back to the oil pan. I removed most of the bolts, but there were still some that I couldn't get to. In order to get to these bolts I had to remove the under car brace, the engine stiffener, and the flywheel inspection cover! So I finally got all the bolts off. Now I couldn't get the pan off. The hondabond stuck between the gasket and each side was like Krazyglue. I had to pry with a screwdriver until I got it partway split. It took forever trying to work around the pan in order to remove it but I finally seperated the whole thing. But wait, the pan still wouldn't come out. So I had to work it back and forward while the pan rubbed against the flywheel and the suspension brace. I came real close to removing the brace, as that was the only way I could see removing it. After about two hours of work the pan finally came out. I just had to keep working it back and forward. Now I can see why people try to mount the return fitting without removing the pan.

So now the pan is removed, I've drilled a hole, but the muffler shop I went to, to get it welded told me that they can't weld the brass fitting because it will melt. So I found a bolt to use as a bulkhead fitting and I am going to JB weld it up tonight. I hope the JB weld will stick!

So that's where the install is right now. I am only going to have a little time to work on it today, so my goals for today are precise: install the oil pan and return line and install the coolant lines. If I have any time left I will install the piping also.

People were worried about me warping the oil pan because I had to pry it off...

So about the oil pan, I didn't warp it. I didn't put enough pressure on it to do that. I cleaned it up with Castrol super clean and used my dremel with a wire brush and removed all the old gasket material. It looks good. I grinded all the paint and metal off of the area surrounding the oil return fitting so that I could JB weld it up. I figure, the JB weld is just for reassurance because the bulkhead fitting is strong enough to hold the fitting in place and will not fall off. I used a little JB weld on each side and shaped it nicely around the bolts on both sides. I install a new oil pan gasket and used lots of ATV gasket maker stuff on both sides of the gasket. That ATV stuff stinks! It smells like vinegar. Getting the pan installed was easy, thanks to HighMileage. If it wasn't for his advice in a seperate thread about using zip ties to hold the gasket it place I probably wouldn't have had it installed yet.

That was it for yesterday. I did run into one small problem though, the fitting for the oil return line is a little too close to the engine stiffener. This is a little aluminum block that connects the engine to the tranny. So I had to grind down the stiffener just a little bit to make it fit. I haven't got it back installed yet, but today I should get it done.

I am thinking that I might buy a whole new oil pan and get some high quality Earls fittings, take my time with it and get it all welded nice and install that later on (like next month) after I get my car working right now.

Today, I will install the down pipe, engine stiffener, under engine brace, piping, water hoses, and vacuume connections. I should get it started tonight. I probably wont get the Boost gauge or A/F gauges installed until later this week because I need to plan the placement of these out a little more

So, I still have not finished.

Last night I got the engine stiffener installed, the under car brace, and the downpipe. The downpipe took forever. It was a little short and the holes where it lines up with the cat were a little small. I had to drill them out a little to make them bigger for the install. I also had to clamp the header to the cat so I could get the bolts in. It was a hell of a time and took forever but I finally got it in.

The JB weld looks and feels like it has dried to a nice hard solid. I think it should hold nicely. I'm just a little worried about what happens when it gets real hot.

The coolant line installs were easy and uneventfull. Same with the O2 sensor install.

The radiator fan was very hard to re-install. With the turbo up there, there is little room to squeeze the fan in. I ended up breaking one of the tabs that gets bolted down. But the remainder three bolts should hold it fine. Side note: I didn't remove the radiator or right side fan like Tom suggests. I did the whole install with it still in place.

The pipe that goes from the turbo to the intake was a little hard to connect because the distributer gets in the way. If it was about a half inch longer on each side it would have been a lot easier.

I still have to fill the car up with radiator fluid and double-check all my connections before I start the car up. Also, I need to install the intake pipe. Since I have the cold air setup, I will need to remove the bumper and relocate the coolant tank. I need to do the vacuume connections also. But all this stuff should be easy (yeah right!)

I'm pretty scared to start the car up. This install has required so many changes that could introduce leaks, such as:

oil sending unit install
oil pan gasket install
coolant line Tee's and connections to turbo
oil return line
oil return mount on oil pan
vacuume Tee's and connections, hoses.
gasket seal on EGR intake connection
exhast from manifold to turbo
exhaust from turbo to downpipe
exhaust from downpipe to cat
intake charge leak at BOV
intake charge leak at turbo or Throttle body connections

I have double-checked all these items
That first start up is freaking me out. Wish me luck!!!

Not quite running on...

I finished up all the vacuum lines, removed the front bumper and coolant overflow tank. While the bumper was off I inspected places to mount an intercooler. It looks like I will be able to mount a short intercooler right on top of those A/C lines. It will involve cutting the bumper support beam a little for clearance and drilling holes to route the pipes, but that's another project for another time.

My kit came with the cold air option. I had previously drilled the hole for the intake to go through and I was able to install it with a little work.

After I got the intake installed I replaced the upper radiator hose and opened up the air bleed valve on the head. I filled up the radiator and then closed the valve, leaving the radiator cap off.

I double-checked all my connections, checked the oil (again), pre-lubed the turbo, reattached the battery, and then started the car up.

It started up fine, sounded fine and looked fine. I put the heater on high heat and the fan all the way up. Since I am still using the stock exhaust and cat I can hear the turbo and its beautiful whine clearly. It sounds powerful. The air getting sucked into the cold air intake makes a cool "whirr" sound. For those few moments every problem I ran into during this install was worth it.

I let the car idle, quickly running around with a flashlight looking for any coolant or oil leaks.... nothing.... After the car is up to temperature I stab the throttle. The spool of the turbo is the only thing I hear as the rpms shoot up faster then a B16a with a lightened flywheel. The rev was exponential in speed. But it wasn't boosting.

Do you turbo guys get boost when you rev without strain on the engine? My boost gauge went from a 20psi vac to 0psi. But there weren’t any Blow-off valve sounds and no positive boost.

I was just about to close up the hood and go for a test drive when I decided to look for leaks one more time. So I get on my hands and knees, look under the car and sure enough, a slow leak (drip) from the oil pressure sending unit can be seen. So that means that I didn't do a good enough job tightening those fittings and I probably need to kneed the liquid thread sealant tube better before applying it. So no driving impressions yet.

I will have to jack up the car, remove both intake manifold braces, oil filter, and probably the front brace again. Damn! Another day I will have to wait before getting to drive this thing!

Well, I did get it installed and working. I ended up having to remove the oil pan again and get the oil return fitting welded in and connected to the turbo with nice -10 AN lines. Oh and you don't get boost without load on the engine. I ran the car with the turbo for about 6 months or 5000 miles. I didn't run it very hard though because it would ping under wot. I just wasn't getting enough fuel. I ended up removing the turbo after I did a compression check on my 160,000 mile oil burning engine and found that she wasn't gonna last much longer.

Now I'm thinking of reinstalling the turbo after building up a turbo prepped B20 block and getting a stand alone ecu solution.

3,866 Posts
Only part of the install I didn't like was the oil renturn line. Later the pressure line also caused problems. The puching oil line thing sucks. If you don't do it right you'll lose compression threw the hole and you will not see it in any tests. All your extra boost goes out the hole the guage goes up and everything but now power. To me forever to figure it out

Suggest you have the plug welded in.

3,866 Posts
im confused. what do you mean "you don't get boost without load on the engine"?
Basically you'll have hole were it doesn't belong bleeding out air. I don't know how true this is. I plan on tearing down the engine soon to see why I have sometimey performance. I haven't had the money to really rebuild the engine the way I wanted to until now.

13,157 Posts
im confused. what do you mean "you don't get boost without load on the engine"?
the speed of the turbo depends on exhaust output. if you are not pushing the gas pedal down far enough, the engine is not taking in much air, and there is not much exhaust to spool the turbo. the heavier you go on the gas pedal, the faster the turbo will spin, and the more air the turbo produces.
boost pressure is when the turbo pushes out more air than the engine is sucking in. and you need to go heavy on the gas pedal to make this happen
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