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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry guys, I know this has been discussed a lot in the past, but from all that I have read there has never been a clear solution to the low heat/ operating temp issue. I have changed my stat out to a 190 deg (aftermarket unit... Just can't justify spending $45 for a stat from the dealer, especially if it doesn't solve the problem) and the car still takes a long time to warm up. That just sucks during the winter. (Yes, I have the correct antifreeze mixture, and the control valve works fine. The fans rarely come on, but work fine. I have good heat in the summer :smile: )
My car has AC and is from California, so I imagine the rad is a HD model. No doubt this compounds the issue.
Anyhow...
I have been looking at a few different stat from parts suppliers, and have found two different types listed for our cars.

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=9253+10610+4294965656+1631+11921

Stant makes a #13869 (reverse poppet)

and a regular #45869 type.


Does anyone have a pic of the factory OEM stat?
I'm curious about the "poppet" bypass stat.
"The primary valve operates
exactly the same as the non-bypass thermostat and opens allowing
coolant to flow to the radiator when the engine is at normal operating
temperature. The secondary valve allows coolant to be circulated
back through the engine during its warm up stage. The temperature
of the engine is able to rise more evenly, minimizing hot and cold
spots in the engine. The primary valve begins to open and the
secondary valve closes when the engine temperature rises. All
coolant is then directed through the primary valve to the radiator
ensuring that the correct operating temperature is maintained.the primary valve opens"

Does our motor have a bypass setup?

Thanks,
Paul
 

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There are hoses that are placed between the thermostat and waterpump. I guess those bypass it. I haven't had a thermostat in my lude for three years, so I couldn't tell you what it looked like when I removed it... sorry. When I first got mine it ran hot all the time.
 

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well for me it always worked to just pull both fan fuse's.then put them back when needed.but i guess u could run a bypass to a swicth to cut the fans on and off.once i took them out she heated up fast.
 

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well for me it always worked to just pull both fan fuse's.then put them back when needed.but i guess u could run a bypass to a swicth to cut the fans on and off.once i took them out she heated up fast.
i wouldnt doubt that
 

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I had the low heat problem. my lude would never warm up. It ran fine, never had a problem with the way it ran. but on cold mornings it wouldn't heat up and the heater wouldn't work. I first replaced the stat w/ a replacement from autozone. That did not work. So i decided to replace the thermostat housing and electrical switches on the entire housing (and because i eventually broke the stud on the original thermostat housing, so be careful). I just went to junk yard and pulled one. Cleaned it up, and replaced the old one, i used the same stat and everything heated up fine. so you should try changing those things out.
 

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Cold lude

Well with the rad you have and Thermostat it will take a while, to be honest they take a while even as standard, you have to remember they are a large engine and they are cast iron so takes a while for the engine to transfer the heat to the water!! Just have to be more patient!! Once it's warmed up and it's still bit cold you could put some ally foil on half the front of the radiator that will help. But as for warming up quickly there just isn't an answer just wrap up warm and start your car few minutes earlier than normal!!
 

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i believe judgey is right, it takes awhile for mine to heat up too, but man it gets so hot when it finally warms up! i just hate waiting 15 minutes before i can go anywhere.

i have teh factory manual though, i believe it shows what the stat looks like i'll get back to you on that
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies guys.
I guess it's the nature of the beast, but I'm hoping i can find a way to help her along a bit. I've covered some of the rad up, swapped out the old 190 deg stat for another one. This one looks to have a smaller opening so... might cause a slow down in the fluid flow when it begins to open.
Going over some old posts, a lot of guys say that he dealer stat works the best. I'm wondering if there is a big difference between OEM and the aftermarket stuff? Stant has been around for a long time, and have a pretty good rep.

Thanks Prelude85, Let me know if you find that pic

Paul
 
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