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Discussion Starter #1
ok guys heres the deal,

im lowered on ground controls and kyb agx's. amount of drop is unknown as i bought the car that way. i have a couple questions regarding my bad tire wear.

ok the inside of my rear tires are getting eaten to shit, im not gona say its horrible but im afraid that soon im going to start seeing belts. i know that lowering affects your suspension geometry and affects camber greatly. im also aware that whats making my tires wear to shit is negative camber. heres my questions to you guys, how the fuck do i fix that shit? i figured that adjustable ball joints (thats what the guy who did my alignment said) and a camber kit would fix it. i searched around here and i read a couple threads saying that camber kits wont work becuase id be trying to revert my suspension geometry back to stock and that would be retarded becuase its physically not.

so im wondering what do i do? i just want my tires to wear somewhat even, so when i buy new ones i wont have this problem. will the adjustble ball joints and a camber kit work? if so were do i purchase them?
 

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IBALLHARD
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i believe you can do with just the upper balljoints..
i dont think you are going to need both those and the upper control arm mounts..
i think usually people go with one or the other. not both.
they are both a "camber kit".

when i get my new rims and tires in im going to be purchasing the front and rear ingalls upper balljoint style camber kit.
(unless someone see this and has a good reason why the upper control arm mounts are better)

but a camber kit should fix your problem. and wherever you saw that camber kits wont work...well if that is true it wouldnt mater to me because if you are wearing threw tires that bad i would rather save my tires as much as possible.

i seriously doubt its going to hurt anything in your suspension if you install a camber kit if thats what you are worried about..
 

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Here's the deal, lowering your car doesn't change the geometry it just changes what part of the geometry you use. Because the Prelude is front wheel drive the rear has a good amount of negative camber especially when lowered to prevent it from losing rear traction. Camber, though it does make some difference, will not affect the tire wear that much. Toe angle, on the other hand, will affect tire wear far more than camber ever could. You do have a pretty good amount of negative camber but I would be guessing the alignment also have a good amount of toe-in and that is more than likely what is causing your tires to wear unevenly. I would recommend avoiding a camber kit on the front suspension but would certainly recommend avoiding camber kit on the rear at all. Installing a camber kit can drastically change the amount of negative camber you have in a corner and could lead to a sudden loss of traction in the rear of the car.

Short and sweet, set the ride height to wear you want and it get the car aligned and ask them to get the toe in on the rear and the front as close to 0 as they can. Then make sure you rotate your tires often and you should be on your way to better tire wear.

Side note: The front suspension toe's out as it is moved farther into the negative travel realm; the rear toe's in. So if you drop the front you get toe out and if you drop the rear you get toe in.
 

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ok guys heres the deal,

im lowered on ground controls and kyb agx's. amount of drop is unknown as i bought the car that way. i have a couple questions regarding my bad tire wear.

ok the inside of my rear tires are getting eaten to shit, im not gona say its horrible but im afraid that soon im going to start seeing belts. i know that lowering affects your suspension geometry and affects camber greatly. im also aware that whats making my tires wear to shit is negative camber. heres my questions to you guys, how the fuck do i fix that shit? i figured that adjustable ball joints (thats what the guy who did my alignment said) and a camber kit would fix it. i searched around here and i read a couple threads saying that camber kits wont work becuase id be trying to revert my suspension geometry back to stock and that would be retarded becuase its physically not.

so im wondering what do i do? i just want my tires to wear somewhat even, so when i buy new ones i wont have this problem. will the adjustble ball joints and a camber kit work? if so were do i purchase them?

personally, i'd stay away from adjustable ball joints. i've seen more problems with those slipping than i seen from good adjustable mounts.

i'll agree with jhall, toe is eating your tires, the camber is just preventing it from eating your entire tire.

if i had your car, i would install good quality adjustable mounts and have the car aligned by someone I could work with to get it right. i'd be looking for about 0.1 degree of toe-in (the rubber suspension bushings deflect under the load of driving, so, at speed, your tires will move to near 0 toe), and about 1 degree of negative camber.

un equal length control arms (what you have) are designed to gain negative camber as the suspension compresses (in order to compensate for the body roll induced in cornering). as the suspension compresses, the rate of gain increases.

the first inch of compression from stock might be worth 1 degree.
the second inch of compression from stock might be worth 1.5 MORE degrees (total of 2.5)
the third inch of compression from stock might be worth 2 MORE degrees (total of 4.5)

when you lower a car, you are fooling the suspension into thinking it is always turing, and so, it is always compensating for body roll....that isn't really there.

you need to stand the tires back up, put them back where they want to be for normal stright line driving.

but, be aware....you are now operating at the higher end of that curve. that first inch of compression in your 2" dropped car is now worth 2 degrees (instead of that original 1). the second inch of compression is now worth 2.5 MORE degrees (for a total of 4.5)

in stock form, 2 inches of compession resulted in 2.5 degrees of camber.
in modded form, the same 2 inches of compression results in 4.5 degrees of camber.

(and..just as camber rates increase at a geometric rate.....toe changes do as well....so, what might be unnoticed wear at stock height can quickly become uncontrollable wear when lowered.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so in a nutshell, i shouldnt get anything extra, get my toe as close to zero as possible on front and back, and rotate my tires often.

sounds like a plan.

thanks guys.
 

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so in a nutshell, i shouldnt get anything extra, get my toe as close to zero as possible on front and back, and rotate my tires often.

sounds like a plan.

thanks guys.
i'm still suggesting high quality adjustable upper control arms mounts
 

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from were should i purchase these?

and how/to what setting would i adjust these?
a reputable source of quality parts built for your specific vehicle (i don't own any 5th gens, so i dunno who makes the best option for your car).

i would set them to 1* negative camber at static ride height.
 

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owwwwwwwww he just call you a dip shit fool
 
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