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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any recs on a shop or person that will reliably install a knock sensor on SH in the bay area? I have the OEM part already, and was going to do it myself. But it seems a major PITA to getto it from the top or bottom. From the IM is hard to take off without pulling the motor due to the bolt locations, and the cursed ATTS unit would need to come off to get at it from the bottom, which requires taking out the axel and exhaust. I've taken apart the exhaust before when pulling the oil pan, and I don't enjoy being under there with just stands.

After looking at the tools I would need and labor it would takeI think it's worth calling up some local shops, and was hoping someone knew some good shops that could do it for under a few hundred dollars. I called honda of el cerrito, they said $1500+ at 10 hours of labor.
 

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Holy shit man 1500$!!!!!!!!!??????? I called around two different Honda Dealers (out of curiosity) here in AZ when I had to do my knock sensor on my SH last time (in 2015) and they both said around 300$. My friend got his replaced at the Honda Dealer (he also has an SH) back in 2012ish for around 280$ IIRC.

Anyways, this last time I changed mine (after realizing the one on my swapped engine was shit), I was able to get to the knock sensor without removing anything major, just the intake ducting mainly. If you have small hands and slender forearms you can squeeze in between the gap coming from the passenger side under the intake manifold runners and just above the water pipe up against the backside of the block and you can get to the sensor to disconnect the plug.

Then you can get a swivel extension and remove it from behind the intake manifold. repeat the process in reverse for re installation. Of course afterwards my wrist hurt for about a month (I think I might've dislocated it for a second LOL) but it does save some cash if you wanna give it a go doing it this way. Otherwise keep calling around cause 1500$ seems really high to me even if they had to R&R the IM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Holy shit man 1500$!!!!!!!!!??????? I called around two different Honda Dealers (out of curiosity) here in AZ when I had to do my knock sensor on my SH last time (in 2015) and they both said around 300$. My friend got his replaced at the Honda Dealer (he also has an SH) back in 2012ish for around 280$ IIRC.

Anyways, this last time I changed mine (after realizing the one on my swapped engine was shit), I was able to get to the knock sensor without removing anything major, just the intake ducting mainly. If you have small hands and slender forearms you can squeeze in between the gap coming from the passenger side under the intake manifold runners and just above the water pipe up against the backside of the block and you can get to the sensor to disconnect the plug.

Then you can get a swivel extension and remove it from behind the intake manifold. repeat the process in reverse for re installation. Of course afterwards my wrist hurt for about a month (I think I might've dislocated it for a second LOL) but it does save some cash if you wanna give it a go doing it this way. Otherwise keep calling around cause 1500$ seems really high to me even if they had to R&R the IM.
Thanks for the info! It's worth giving it a shot. I recently replaced the oil cooler O-ring (which stopped my oil burning!). I was hoping to do both at once because some guys said they could get to the KS after removing the cooler. that way, but my skinny but large hands couldn't get to the knock sensor for the life of me.

I'll call a few more shops too, I would probably bring it to someone at $300. I was expecting some ridiculous number from the stealership but yeah 1500 was surprising.
 

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When you call the dealership, they don't know off hand how long it will be. They looked it up in their flat rate manual and it probably called for the intake manifold and various bits and bobs being removed to access the intake side of the engine.

I had mine done before I started doing my own work/pursued becoming a technician. I bet it could be done via unbolting the intake side engine mount and dropping the subframe? that would free up a lot of space if you have access to a hoist.
 

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Thanks for the info! It's worth giving it a shot. I recently replaced the oil cooler O-ring (which stopped my oil burning!). I was hoping to do both at once because some guys said they could get to the KS after removing the cooler. that way, but my skinny but large hands couldn't get to the knock sensor for the life of me.

I'll call a few more shops too, I would probably bring it to someone at $300. I was expecting some ridiculous number from the stealership but yeah 1500 was surprising.

That oil ring didn't burn anything it dumped it out the back side of your engine.
 

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ive changed a knock sensor on an sh without removing anything but the intake tube. then using swivel and extension, long flat blade screwdriver to push connector off, and lots of patience it comes in and out in an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Gwiz and dontbuyprelude, I managed to replace myself it using the intake tube method. In case anyone else needs to do it on the SH, it really helped me to take off the balancing weight that sits on the rear anchor mount, as well as the harness plug that goes in to the thermostat housing. That, and wrapping your arm up with duct-tape over a long sleeve shirt. I used a 6 inch extension with a deep socket 24mm.

Oddly, the new 'OEM' that I bought from AutoSupplyKing91 on ebay had the same markings that the original had, but was slightly larger so it didn't slide completely in the 24mm socket (the OEM one I pulled fit perfectly), but there was enough bevel to torque it to some very light torque. I hope that it's enough to satisfy the computer. Anyone else see this size issue with new OEM sensors? Wondering if I got tricked.
 

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my experience with ebay knock sensors is they are garbage. got a cel the second i installed it. took it out and put in an old oem one hanging together by a thread with 200k miles on it, no more cel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Spoke too soon, the code came back. Going to reinstall it. The clip sort of disintegrated when I pulled it, so I don't think it's staying on. Anyone know where I can get another harness clip for the knock sensor?

It's hard to reattach the clip with the IM on, so I'm thinking to attach a new clip to a solo wire, and run that to the knock sensor from the main harness connector near the fuse box. From my knock sensor simulator experiments I already spliced the wire. So where can I get one of these clips, any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, there was no advice on this anywhere on the net, and no one seems to be selling the knock sensor connector since it is part of the harness. I'm surprised since the clip must suffer from the same brittleness problems as the knock sensor.
Anyway I bought a 2nd gen oddyssey connector subwire 30531-P8F-A00 for $6 w/shipping. It seems to be the same connector from staring at lots of google images. I'll splice it in the tail end of the wire. If anyone's done it, let me know if you had issues.
 
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