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what are u putting that turbo on?
 

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You'd best drill some holes and put real bolts in the compressor housing, the ones in there now are purely for show, the housing is glued together.
 

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good luck with it. i don't trust stuff like that from ebay
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
uggggg....well we'll see what my "turbo expert" friend has to say. glued on eh? what exactly is the problem with this turbo?

i just read some very bad things on this turbo and ive seen that these things tend to split the compressor housing in half. now i think ive come up with a solution. tig welding the seam all the way around the compressor housing. by a profesional welder (the best that you can find in canada apparently...his name is rick but that doesnt matter, even the US army thinks so). im thinking that ill take it to him to get welded, but i was thinking would the welding process be too hot for it? would it destroy anything. i wouldnt think so seeing as the thing will get really hot when being used.
 

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You could just tack it in several places.
The main thing I'm concerned about is the huge ass a/r on the turbine housing. It's going to take forever to spool man.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
the a/r on the turbine side is fairly high. I could get around spool time by going with a 3 inch down pipe no? the bigger the down pipe the faster the spool, thats what ive been told and understand. there are other ways of decreasing the spool time.. ill research on that but for now, ill get rick to tig weld that stupid seam. anyone heard of any other problems from these turbos such as spinning bearings and shit?
 

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Sorry man but the a/r on the turbine is .84 which in my opinion (and I'm probably not the only one who feels this way) is too large for a stock engine.
The .50 a/r is the compressor and that's fine. I would look around for a .63 hot side if you can find one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
sorry you must have read my post before i edited it, i realised that the .84 was the a/r on the turbine

wouldnt that theoretically mean less exhaust gas restriction? or is that bad to a certain extent. i would think that the turbo would need some restriction to generate a little more pressure to act on the turbine are you saying that the b20a might not have enough stock exhaust flow to build the needed pressure to spool that turbine?
 

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The b20a will spool the turbo eventually but it will be at a fairly high rpm before you reach your desired boost levels. The turbo will be laggy due to the large a/r. You will have to keep the engine in the upper rpm's to maintain boost. It may feel like driving an s2000 except we can't wind our engines that high...lol.
Our engines do not supply a high enough exhaust volume to fill the large turbine housing and keep the turbine wheel rotating at the necessary velocity to produce desired charge pressures.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok HOW DO I GET OUT OF THIS BID WITHOUT HAVING TO PAY THIS GUY i really dont want this turbo now ive read alot of shit on them and they really are crap..does ne one know how i can get around having to pay for this and taking it? i have emailed ebay about this problem and the poor quality of the turbo ( i even added in the fact that it could damage my engine and possibly hurt me too *wink wink*) i dont want this at all please help me. aaaaaaaaah
 

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Tell the guy you realized you made a huge mistake in buying the turbo. But whatever you do, DO NOT INGORE HIS EMAILS. You will get a negative feedback, and possible a banning.

If you explain to him what the problem is, he might take it back. Just tell him to file an unpaid item dispute and check the "buyer and seller have agreed not to go through with transaction" yada yada yada.. he gets the listing fee back and can relist it.

Next time, get a GReddy, Garrett, Turbonetics, Precision, HKS, etc.

XS Power and any of the no name turbos suck.

BTW -- you should be looking for a T3/T4. The turbine AR should be .6 or .7 at the most.. .8 is huge. The compressor should also be .5 or .6 AR.

Good luck
 

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Heath said:
The main thing I'm concerned about is the huge ass a/r on the turbine housing. It's going to take forever to spool man.
thats why i asked whats it goin on...your b20a isnt going to spool that thing in a timely fashion
 

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XS engineering is a totally different brand than XS power. You might be able to get out of the deal b/c it says XS engineering turbo, when it is clearly an XS power turbo.

XS engineering is reputable, but XS power is crap. good luck. hope it works out for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks guys ill keep posting on whats going on in the mean time, is a t3/t4 flange the same as a t25? and i saw a link for an online turbo store. Were did you guys get your turbos?
 

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Have you thought about picking up a nice used "oem" turbo such as a t28 or t3 from a nissan?
t28 would kick ass on a b20
I'm just saying there are lots of options out there. Are you building your engine for boost or using the stock internals and running 5-10psi?
You can spend a lot of money on a good quality name brand turbo (precision, turbonetics, etc.) but if you aren't going to be running that turbo in it's efficiency range it seems like a waste to me. You can run a much cheaper and generally reliable garrett (kkk, air research, ihi, mitsubishi, etc.) from a dsm, nissan, etc.....saving cash and still reaching desired results.
I'm just expressing my opinion on things. I'm an advocate of aftermarket high quality turbochargers for built high pressure setups but for a stock block it seems silly.
I'm running a garrett t-25 from an older 300xz and love it. I paid $125 for it and it spools well before 3k. I'm only running 6psi at the moment but plan on taking it to 8-10 after it's fully tuned.
 
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