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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The battery drains at the same rate with the key off as when its running. All the fuses pull current when the key is off. The battery dies in about 12 hours completely.
 

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how can ALL of the fuses pull current when the ignition is off? thats impossible, because all the fuses dont even draw current when the ignition is on.

drawing current is totally different than having voltage.
most fuses have voltage with the ignition off, thats normal.

it sounds like you did a voltage test, not a current flow test
 

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yeah, thats what i was thinking.
so your radio is on even with the car off?
in that case, how do you turn the car off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The fuses all have the same current with the car running when the car is off and the key is out and its as if the car thinks the key is still in the running position. Each fuse but the lights, clock and radio pull current.
 

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The fuses all have the same current with the car running when the car is off and the key is out and its as if the car thinks the key is still in the running position. Each fuse but the lights, clock and radio pull current.
are the lights, clock, and radio on and functioning when they are pulling the current you are measuring?

the clock and radio always have power sitting at their fuses (well, the memory sides of the clock and radio) the always-on clock and radio wires will never see a drop or increase in amperage, regardless of key position...the memories stay on all the time.

the lights are available regardless of key position, so it would not be illogical to find power at those fuses. but they will not be drawing amperage unless the lights are actually on and shining.


methinks you are not measuring the current correctly.

you are pulling the fuse out, setting the multimeter to test amperage, sticking one probe in one side of the fuse holder, and the other probe in the other side of the fuse holder......right?


if not....do that and get back to us.
 

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do you have an amp in the car for a sub or something. if thas the case it may be an amp issue but thats easy to check. the fuses dont really matter. check for thingson tha shoudnt be while the key is off. try pulling fuses one at a time over night to narrow your search. try checking the battery when a battery goes bad it will not hold a charge. if its a new battery it could still be a bad battery. other than fuses what have you checked?
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i got this same problem but i can go for a day and a half before mine completely dies...i did a voltage check and not a current(amp) check also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
its done this to three different battery's and i put the negative to the negative post on the battery and the positive on the exposed part on the fuse and it pulls 12V i think with the key out it doesn't have a stereo and i didn't say that because that shouldn't make a difference. With the lights off it has no voltage. The clock doesn't work any way so it shouldn't matter. Also i just noticed that it keeps blowing the light bulbs. I use the H4 conversion lights so its not the huge one piece lights.
 

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what you need to do is an amp draw test. take a volt ohm meter and disconnect your positive or negative terminal. place one lead to the battery and the other to the terminal that is not hooked up. set your meter to amps and start pulling fuses until the meter stops changing. which ever fuse you pulled that made it stop is the line with the problem. if this is a new problem for you, before you try this you may want to check and replace faulty ground straps and cables. if you have weak/bad grounds your charging system will not hold a charge or take a complete charge simulating dead battery in short time frame.
 

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what you need to do is an amp draw test. take a volt ohm meter and disconnect your positive or negative terminal. place one lead to the battery and the other to the terminal that is not hooked up. set your meter to amps and start pulling fuses until the meter stops changing. which ever fuse you pulled that made it stop is the line with the problem. if this is a new problem for you, before you try this you may want to check and replace faulty ground straps and cables. if you have weak/bad grounds your charging system will not hold a charge or take a complete charge simulating dead battery in short time frame.
also, if you unbolt your starter cable and check it it is probably really corroded. if you have green dust flaking off it is corroded. you may want to replace that cable as well. your battery terminals may also show signs of this as well. power is funny like that. it looks for the easiest place to escape.
 

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its done this to three different battery's and i put the negative to the negative post on the battery and the positive on the exposed part on the fuse and it pulls 12V i think with the key out it doesn't have a stereo and i didn't say that because that shouldn't make a difference. With the lights off it has no voltage. The clock doesn't work any way so it shouldn't matter. Also i just noticed that it keeps blowing the light bulbs. I use the H4 conversion lights so its not the huge one piece lights.
its not pulling 12 volts. it is showing available voltage. it only pulls if it is on. do amp test. there are many items in the car that have 12 volts all the time.
 

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i have the same problem ,but i think mine is the fan sensor so i just un hook the batt. when i'm not going to be driving for a while.
 

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i got this same problem but i can go for a day and a half before mine completely dies...i did a voltage check and not a current(amp) check also.
Is your power antenna broke? If so it will cycle key on or off Drove me nuts for a day until I had my head in trunk and heard it.
 

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Do your seat belts retract like crap? Maybe your seat belt retractors are constantly pulling power. (That was the fuse on mine that when I pulled the amps being pulled dropped, one of the last couple in the block. 'course, I had a dead alternator so I wasn't charging worth a damn either...)
 

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wtf seatbelt retractors? what version do you have?,
all you have to do is get an ammeter disconnect the negative cable and connect the ammeter inbetween the two, if youre getting more than like .2 amps then you have parasitic draw. next you have someone look at the ammeter as you start pulling fuses in order ( start with the ones under the dash first) and once you pull the one that drops the excessive amps you locate what that fuse went to and repair the problem, most likey a trunk switch or something that switches on a light that you dont notice.
 

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wtf seatbelt retractors? what version do you have?,
all you have to do is get an ammeter disconnect the negative cable and connect the ammeter inbetween the two, if youre getting more than like .2 amps then you have parasitic draw. next you have someone look at the ammeter as you start pulling fuses in order ( start with the ones under the dash first) and once you pull the one that drops the excessive amps you locate what that fuse went to and repair the problem, most likey a trunk switch or something that switches on a light that you dont notice.
If you do this test, make sure that you have both doors closed or you might be messing with mutiple problems that you don't need to be.
 

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For this to occur you likely have an old alarm remnant tapping into your hot ignition wire. It is the large gray gauge wire coming out from your ignition column going to the main dash fuse panel check that out to see if there is something spliced into it and look for relays that don't belong wired together with aftermarket wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It has a brand new ignition and all battery cables but I haven't had the time to get to my dads house where it's being stored at because of school.
 
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