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are these stock cylinders and did you deck the head. I've rebuilt my JDM H22 twice. Once with a hone on stock sleeves and 87mm 11.5:1 Mahle pistons. Last time with iron sleeves and 88mm wiseco 11.5:1 pistons. In my experience, a hone wont last more than 30k on a stock block. Can't go cheap on on H22s or H23s. I'd say either get a H23 Bluetop and swap everything over, which I have done before. Or sleeve it and go forged pistons. It's not cheap but its well worth it in the long run, esp if you're boosted. The bluetops are relatively easy to find, but they'll eventually run into cracked ringlandings if you beat it. I have one in my junk pile right now. Anyways good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Ok got the head bolts today just about an hour or 2 more work in the morning and we see if she will run and have good compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
are these stock cylinders and did you deck the head. I've rebuilt my JDM H22 twice. Once with a hone on stock sleeves and 87mm 11.5:1 Mahle pistons. Last time with iron sleeves and 88mm wiseco 11.5:1 pistons. In my experience, a hone wont last more than 30k on a stock block. Can't go cheap on on H22s or H23s. I'd say either get a H23 Bluetop and swap everything over, which I have done before. Or sleeve it and go forged pistons. It's not cheap but its well worth it in the long run, esp if you're boosted. The bluetops are relatively easy to find, but they'll eventually run into cracked ringlandings if you beat it. I have one in my junk pile right now. Anyways good luck.

Fully stock car that had blown head gasket. All my work was fine the failure came due to back pressure in clogged cat caused head gasket to fail and leak coolant into cylinders the water washing the oil off the cylinders caused metal to metal.

I choose to try a cheap solution if works ya me if not I'm only out 500.00.

I would blue top and save the h22 for future turbo build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Ok boys started it up today and she has smooth idle no engine light

But it has blow by and slight piston slap.

Oh well what a waist of a good motor. I will keep it for future h22a sleeve and upgrade for turbo in the future. Or part it out since the head is new.


That's all folks.
 

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I had to look it up to see what that means... Oh man that sucks, sorry to hear that. All that work you put in it already and you made it look so easy. Why not pull the block and take it into a machine shop and get it sleeve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I had to look it up to see what that means... Oh man that sucks, sorry to hear that. All that work you put in it already and you made it look so easy. Why not pull the block and take it into a machine shop and get it
I had to look it up to see what that means... Oh man that sucks, sorry to hear that. All that work you put in it already and you made it look so easy. Why not pull the block and take it into a machine shop and get it sleeve?
Well I was hoping to save money and honda is tuff but I knew it was very likely it would not work my salvage attempt.

When I pulled the head and saw the deep groves I knew it was over for the motor without a bore or sleeve job. But for 200 bucks in parts I gave it a try.

Almost 😁

Drove fine no smoke 150 compression across all. But tapping at idle and thats not going to last.


So now I have been thinking about what to do from here

I pulled the engine today and put the car out side. I am thinking of 1 of the following

1 used jdm h22a vtec
2 used jdm h23a vtec
3 rebuilt long block for sale for 1800 plus tax shipping core
4 send this block out.

They all cost the same but the long block has a core so I can't salvage the old engine for any later use or resale for money back parting out.

This is a stock car not modified not looking to modify at this time. It's my son's first car in a couple months.

Leaning towards h22a jdm used so I can swap all my new parts over and plug and play and keep the old one.
 

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i've had several h22s usdm and jdm and a h23 bluetop. If you're on a budget I'd still say go for h23 blue top. it can be had for under $1k have pretty decent stock compression, more displacement which equals more torque. also they are stock autos, which means normally less abused not to mention normally newer. Mine was from an 01. Build was basic: stage 1 cams, light flywheel, stage 1 clutch. rdx injectors, 66mm tb, ported intake and gutted plenum, and balanceshaft delete. ran tuned obd1 ecu on chrome. beat it pretty good for about 3 years. until it started smoking and had blowby out the valve cover.. on tear down found one piston had chunks broken off the ring lands and two more pistons were cracking at ring lands. anyways good luck. :cool:(y)
 

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Sounds like you have a good plan with the jdm. The only time consuming part is getting the motor, bc you can pop that in the bay in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ok update.

Waiting on parts always waiting on parts.

Engine came Monday had to order oil pump I did not know the no crank sensors was on the h22a jdm.as well as the h23.

Tuesday put in new rear main seal installed the new lma I bought for the other engine swapped all the new hoses on the intake to the jdm.

Oil pump in today installed timing belt waiting on pick up tube gasket did not come with the pump. Ordered valve cover gasket and tube seals.

New vtec seal ,coil, and spark plugs I had for the other engine.

Thursday oil pan valve cover and engine install.

See how much I get done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Got it installed today and at first couldn't start it coughed and sputters like a timing or fuel.air mixture issue trying to start.

So unplugged the idle air controller behind injectors and started it low idle but smooth plugged it back in idle picks up to normal and she running like a brand new car.

Well let it idle tell the coolant circulated and the fans cycled twice then ran the ac and heater a while.

Never tried to rev it past 1500 since I was babying turned it off checked the codes for the light crank code and p0335 crank sensor a circuit p1508 idle control circuit

Now I still can't start it unless I did the unplug the intake sensor trick.and I believe the codes are from unpluggi it. Also on a 2nd start up I noticed it would not rev up past like 3000 choked out stumbled.

I am thinking that leaving the jdm intake manifold that came with it is causing the issue.

It is clear to me seems like a air fuel mix issue. If this was a 2018 I would say af sensor or maf sensor

is the jdm intake and sensors different??

I guess I will swapp intakes tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So I found the jdm.h22a swap guide here.

Wish I read that first.

So the intake has to be swapped. And I did not swap the balancer belt gear.

Looks like there is my problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
So new question I think my valves are clicking a little louder than I feel they should be.

I set the intake to .006 and the exhaust to .007

Is noise from being to tight or to loose.

What you guys say??


Runs great no engine light no miss smooth idle.
 
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