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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I am a tech and I know honda. I bought this lude with a blown head gasket to rebuild for my son who is starting to drive.

Pulled engine rebuilt short block pistons bearings oil pump water pump and engine seal kit. Bought rebuilt head from allied motors.

Straight edge block and the reconditioned head in spec.

Put it all together with whole bunch of new parts drove it 800 miles like a champ 500 miles break in oil now 300 with regular oil.

Today no start like no fuel. Throw every test at it. It pass is. Finally say compression test 150 on 1,2,3 100 on 4

Pull fuel supply spin engine with no plugs coolant coming out of 2 3 4

And puddling on piston.

Now as much as this is a kick in the dick my question to the masters is what failed.

New head bolts soaked in oil installed wet. 3 step tongue to spec with digital torque

Only 2 things I can think. 1. shit aftermarket gasket 2. Something cracked on block.or head.


Or 3 I did a bad job don't think that's it.

I did not send.the block to the machine shop due to 6 month wait and having a straight edge test innspec on the block.
My second question for you guys is the hard question? How do I know where the leak is once the head comes off I'm afraid I will not be able to see where it was leaking just by looking at it. He'll I examened the blown 1st head gasket and could not tell where it failed.

Since it is across 3 cylinders and 1 is 50 psi low I would say warped block but it passes on a brand new straight edge.

I plan to bore scope the cylinders tomorrow and hope I can see an entry of coolant with pressure on the radiator.

What do you guys think.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok boys Thursday night cleared the coolant left over night no plugs no pressure. Found no puddles of coolant on piston in the am.

Put pressure on radiator coolant on top of 2 3 and 4 right away.

Run the bore scope with the mirror see coolant streaming into all 3 cylinders under pressure from all the way around the tip of the cylinders.

So with that said we are not dealing with a Crack.

1 Got a bad gasket
2 Poor machine job causing not able to seal when torqued
3 or improper torque.

So pulled the head after lunch today.

Ran out of time to.straight edge anything. But the gasket looks like shit.

I think poor quality cheap aftermarket is the cause.

Ordered a honda head gasket from my honda store.

I just built this engine and noticed LMA noise after the build. I was unaware these are problematic so ordered the updated ones from honda while I have it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Saturday update the bloack and the head pass straight edge test. So feeling better about the gasket defect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well boys its bad it would seem that the coolant that I saw running down the cylinder walls and pudding on the pistons was washing the cylinders and pistons of oil lube. Damaging the new pistons and scoring the cylinders.

Sigh every single aftermarket part failed. For a guy who religiously use OEM parts this was a wake-up to why I always use factory parts
 

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Oh wow.... All that just from a crappy gasket? That's some major work you're doing and sorry you ran into this issue. Please keep us posted on how you'd remedy this.

I'm having a similar issue where when I first start up the car there would be what looks like antifreeze mix with black carbon spraying out the tail pipe until it warms up then quit. It's so bad that I have to put cardboard up to stop it from spraying all over.

BTW: Thank you for the post and all the pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok boys Wednesday update.

So obviously my block cylinder walls.are damaged to the point the proper repair would be send the block out bore over 20 with over sized pistons with the block machined to perfect fit the pistons.

I don't have the time or money for that so since this went south my current plan is to hone the cylinders clean with flex hone and the ball hone a cross hatch.

Put the original pistons back in with new rings from honda dealer.

Use new honda head gasket and honda head bolts.

This is a cost of about 250.00 with oil and filter.

Now my fears are all in the cylinder walls being in larger by boring to the point of improper operation.

I am hopeful I maintain compression no piston slap and at worse burn some oil. I will let yall know bolts due in Monday.

Now as of today pistons and new rings installed ready to go back in block tomorrow

Tomorrow is cross hatch bore and clean up and pistons back in. Then head next week.

Pics of bored scratches out with flex hone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh wow.... All that just from a crappy gasket? That's some major work you're doing and sorry you ran into this issue. Please keep us posted on how you'd remedy this.

I'm having a similar issue where when I first start up the car there would be what looks like antifreeze mix with black carbon spraying out the tail pipe until it warms up then quit. It's so bad that I have to put cardboard up to stop it from spraying all over.

BTW: Thank you for the post and all the pictures.
Have you noticed coolant loss?

Seems strange it would stop after warm up.
 

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Have you noticed coolant loss?

Seems strange it would stop after warm up.
The car sat for 8yrs because the guy I bought it from had the engine rebuild with ported for low compression, sleeved and it's running a T3/T4 pushing 8psi. He couldn't get it to pass emission after doing all that so it just sat.

I bought it from him and replaced all the fluids except for the coolant. Got it to pass emission and I've driven it about 4k miles now and probably loss maybe 1/4 of the overflow reservoir and notice there's muddy buildup in the bottom of the reservoir, I'm hoping that it's from the antifreeze being old. I went ahead and did a complete coolant flush (last week) until I got clear water coming out before adding the new coolant in. Haven't driven it that much since doing the flush, it's my project car.

Do you think it might be possible that there's a slow leak in there somewhere? Or is it one of those where it either leak or it doesn't?
 

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So which brands of parts did you use? Specifically head gasket and piston rings, but curious about others as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The car sat for 8yrs because the guy I bought it from had the engine rebuild with ported for low compression, sleeved and it's running a T3/T4 pushing 8psi. He couldn't get it to pass emission after doing all that so it just sat.

I bought it from him and replaced all the fluids except for the coolant. Got it to pass emission and I've driven it about 4k miles now and probably loss maybe 1/4 of the overflow reservoir and notice there's muddy buildup in the bottom of the reservoir, I'm hoping that it's from the antifreeze being old. I went ahead and did a complete coolant flush (last week) until I got clear water coming out before adding the new coolant in. Haven't driven it that much since doing the flush, it's my project car.

Do you think it might be possible that there's a slow leak in there somewhere? Or is it one of those where it either leak or it doesn't?
I would pressure test the coolant system and monitor it for coolant loss if you belive coolant is coming from tail pipe.

Then an engine compression test will tell you alot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok update time.

I notice during the 2 weeks I drove it that it had a 420 code pop up 2 times. I also believed the exhaust sounded possible restricted.

So I ordered a catalytic converter before the car died.

Now today since I am waiting on head bolts I decided to replace the cat.

The cat weighed a ton considering the new one was pretty light in comparison

I looked inside and it was clogged could not see a stream light through it.

So I am starting to wonder if back pressure blew my head.

The car drove with no lack of power.

I wonder if it killed the head gasket or just a crap gasket.

I have heard of headgaskeket failure from clogged cat but never seen one 30 years in auto repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The car sat for 8yrs because the guy I bought it from had the engine rebuild with ported for low compression, sleeved and it's running a T3/T4 pushing 8psi. He couldn't get it to pass emission after doing all that so it just sat.

I bought it from him and replaced all the fluids except for the coolant. Got it to pass emission and I've driven it about 4k miles now and probably loss maybe 1/4 of the overflow reservoir and notice there's muddy buildup in the bottom of the reservoir, I'm hoping that it's from the antifreeze being old. I went ahead and did a complete coolant flush (last week) until I got clear water coming out before adding the new coolant in. Haven't driven it that much since doing the flush, it's my project car.

Do you think it might be possible that there's a slow leak in there somewhere? Or is it one of those where it either leak or it doesn't?

I did not realize your running a turbo you could have issues with coolant at turbo internal turbo leak

Check there
 

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I did not realize your running a turbo you could have issues with coolant at turbo internal turbo leak

Check there
Yes she's turbo and run strong, I re-route some vacuum hose and got it to push 20+psi (gauge only go up to 20psi) and everything seems fine and the engine appears to be able to handle the power.
In order for me to pass emission I had to dismount all performance components and replaced with stock parts. There's no coolant line connect to the turbo system, just oil line IN/OUT to the turbo itself, other than that just intake piping and vacuum hoses but nothing with coolant.

I'll look into coolant pressure test, hopefully there's youtube videos. Any recommendation on the tools I should purchase for this job? I'm a self taught/backyard mechanic so don't know much.

Here's a pic of what I've mentioned of what comes out of the exhaust.
29004
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The
Yes she's turbo and run strong, I re-route some vacuum hose and got it to push 20+psi (gauge only go up to 20psi) and everything seems fine and the engine appears to be able to handle the power.
In order for me to pass emission I had to dismount all performance components and replaced with stock parts. There's no coolant line connect to the turbo system, just oil line IN/OUT to the turbo itself, other than that just intake piping and vacuum hoses but nothing with coolant.

I'll look into coolant pressure test, hopefully there's youtube videos. Any recommendation on the tools I should purchase for this job? I'm a self taught/backyard mechanic so don't know much.

Here's a pic of what I've mentioned of what comes out of the exhaust.
View attachment 29004
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The coolant pressure tester kit would be not cheap.

They have free loaner tools at most parts stores. Get it there.
 
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