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I'm bumping this because I'm having the same issue now. Trying to get everything else on my car worked out while I wait for this Type-S swap to get here. The engine still runs alright just rod knocks like a bitch, I don't drive it but it should still crank no problems.

My car is doing the same thing as the OP, just plain will not even attempt to start. I'm doubting its the main relay since it does not try to start at all. It's a 2001, which is not eligible for the ignition switch recall (and I would think the issue would have been addressed from the factory). I have checked the clutch switch and it appears to be working fine mechanically. I do not currently have a voltage tester, as mine died.

My question is how do I determine which of the several possibilities is actually causing my issue, before I start randomly swapping out parts? I'll be really pissed if I finally get this Type-S engine in and then it won't start because of this issue...
Step 1: Check on the Ignition Switch Recall.
Step 2: Push-start the car anytime the ignition doesn't work after several attempts.
Step 3: Fix the loose wire.
 

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Type-Esss
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Well, the bulletin says it only affects 97-99 Preludes, and mine is an 01. Also, I don't see any loose wire, I've looked pretty carefully at the clutch switch and don't see any visual problems. Should I just take apart the steering column and look in there, replace the ignition switch if I don't see a loose wire? Just seems wierd since the car never has any problems once its running...
 

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Honestly, I must say that I didn't even read your second paragraph. That's how I missed the 2001 no-recall portion. If you're comfortable taking apart the steering column then go for it. Otherwise, I'd have it checked out by a pro.
 

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so can you push start the car? if you can then it has to be with wire from starter >>> to ignition. some where along the line

edit: thats if your starter is working fine.
 

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I have a 2001 so the Ignition switch wasn't replaced. Correct me if I'm wrong but it doesn't appear replacing this would solve the car starting problem at start-up only. Or will it?


Here is the TSB


TSB 02-031

September 24, 2002
Applies to:
See VEHICLES AFFECTED

Safety Recall:
Ignition Switch

(Supercedes 02-031, dated September 17, 2002)

BACKGROUND

Electrical contacts in the ignition switch can wear prematurely due to high electrical current passing through the switch. Worn out ignition contacts could cause the engine to stall without warning. Although the engine will restart in most cases, a vehicle that stalls while driving increases the risk of a crash.

VEHICLES AFFECTED
-1997 Honda Accord (L4)
-1995-99 Honda Accord (L4 and V6)
-1995-00 Honda Civic
-1997 Honda CRV
-1997-00 Odyssey
-1997-99 Honda Prelude

Not every vehicle in the years and models listed above is affected by this campaign. Before beginning work, verify that the vehicle is eligible by checking at least one of the following.

-The customer has a notification letter.
-The vehicle is shown on your campaign responsiblity report.
-The vehicle is shown as eligible on a DCS or iN (Interactive Network) VIN Status Inquiry

CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION

All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification letter of this campaign. An example of the customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Replace the electrical (ignition) switch

NOTE:
Reinstalling aftermarket parts(security systems, alarms, audio systems, etc.) connected to the ignition wiring is not covered under this campaign. If a customer wants a non-Honda part reinstalled, the shop that installed the part (or the customer) must do the work and assume liability. In addition, the customer is responsible for all costs associated with the non-Honda part and its installation. If you have any questions about this, please contact your District Service Manager.
 

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this problem has been haunting me since i bought it in 2006. i cant even begin to explain how aggravated and pissed off i get when this happens, and i have to be somewhere.

some times, it's taken me 3 hours to get my car to start. it happens mainly in summer, when the cockpit is nice and hot. such fucking stupid bullshit.

i've reduced the problem down to either the immobilizer's computer chip in the CPU. my "main relay" is just fine.

and WHERE IN THE SHIT did you find a 43 dollar starter??? i copped a 50 dollar BOSCH one off a friend locally. h0nda wanted 480 some dollars for the new one. what a crock of shit.
 

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here's a good way to narrow down your troble-shooting possibilities.

if your key is in the II position, and the green, key-light is flashing at you, that means you have a problem with your immobilizer system. have fun finding out where exactly the problem is! ^_^

if you're attempting to crank the engine, and simply nothing is happening, other than dash lights, and your fans, you have a problem with either the starting relay, the clutch switch, the starter itself, the starter's connections, the battery's voltage, or something along the lines of fuel-filter or pump cloggage.
 

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Okay, awesome, thanks.

It can't be my immobilizer system, since the car works fine the rest of the time. It blinks slowly once or twice, then stays on in ignition II. Battery is fine, its an Optima Red-Top and the car will start right up when its cold, or it won't until I cycle the key, then its strong as ever. So the CCA's are there. Fuel filter is relatively new, and I have no problems with fuel delivery at any other time.

I already have a clutch switch I'll be changing out when I do the swap, and I'll likely be using the Type-S starter, so that'll knock those out. Which only leaves connections (which is unlikely since I never move or kick anything or w/e to make it start), and the main relay, after everything is finished. So if I get this problem again after finishing the swap I'll change that relay, and I should be good. Glad to know its not the ignition switch, I'm not too keen on tearing into my steering column wiring.
 

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Have you checked the starter solenoid wire.. its either a ground interrupt or a hot wire interrupted at the ignition switch. It could just be a bad starter solenoid.. it will do just that. if it happens again, try tapping on the starter with a hammer while the ignition is on...

an old solenoid can corrode and not engage properly or have weak electrical properties and not be able to fully engage the starter. This is a case where you'll get absolutely nothing from a starter when you turn the ignition.
 

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^^ Is the solenoid inside of the starter?
 

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Gotcha. Do you know if its serviceable? I remember seeing a write-up on changing the brushes and bearings on the motor, but I don't remember anything about changing the solenoid... Then again, this Type-S motor will give me a new starter, so if that is the issue it won't happen anymore once I finish the swap.
 

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After the entire hot summer without a starting issue today my car didn't start and it was 70 something degrees outside... My green key was flashing on the dash I took a video I can post when I get home...

Does this mean the ignition switch?
 

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so can you push start the car? if you can then it has to be with wire from starter >>> to ignition. some where along the line

edit: thats if your starter is working fine.

I agree. everyone, CHECK ALL YOUR WIRES CONNECTED TO STARTER! Especially the signal wire! In my case, a small rodent or something of the sort climbed up into my warm engine bay for the night and dislocated my starter signal wire! (It's the wire that sits almost directly on top of the starter on a five speed). Make sure it's plugged in correctly if you're car does not crank.
 

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I'm having the same issue, mines a 98. I just started it to move it an had to turn the key a few times before it started then I went to start it again an nothin the green key flashes on the dash an if I hold the pedal an turn the key there's a click around the center colum. If I could get some advice itd be greatly appreciated! 🤙🤙
 
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