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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone my engine light has gone on and as soon as i turn the car off the light goes off. Today i was driving back home doing a little above the speed and than i slowed down and was driving normal but when i got to a light i felt the car wanting to die. The engine was stuttering and when i got home i also saw that the top of the radiator was leaking anti freezer... Its a hell of a day i just had the oil pan seal replaced and now this... Does anyone know where the intake air temperature is on a b20? The led light blinked once but it was a long blink so i guess it means a 10? I looked up the code and it told me its the Intake Air Temperature Sensor. Please any help will be great! THANKS!
 

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Code 10: Air Temperature Sensor: The air temperature (TA) sensor is mounted on the #1 cylinder intake runner. The sensor consists of a thermistor bulb. As air temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The ECU receives sensor information as resistance to ground on pin C5. Air temperature information is used along with information from the PA sensor to determine air density and adjust fuel delivery accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Code 10: Air Temperature Sensor: The air temperature (TA) sensor is mounted on the #1 cylinder intake runner. The sensor consists of a thermistor bulb. As air temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The ECU receives sensor information as resistance to ground on pin C5. Air temperature information is used along with information from the PA sensor to determine air density and adjust fuel delivery accordingly.
So that would be the cause of the stuttering engine? It only did it for a little than it whent back to normal although i do want to get it fixed asap. Thanks a lot i will have a look at it asap also i can just clean it with carb and intake cleaner right?
 

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and if you have ever tried removing the iat its hard, the screws usaully strip. so if anyone has a trick to removing it post it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
and if you have ever tried removing the iat its hard, the screws usaully strip. so if anyone has a trick to removing it post it up.
Im in Sterling, Va man what about you? I will try to find it my best but i am still trying to get familiar with my car. Do you have any picture of where it is located at?
 

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Im in the hampton roads area, which I think I could almost get to South Carolina faster than I could get up past DC. If you are standing in front of your car looking at the engine it should be down on the right side of the IM (intake manifold), about halfway down with two screws. An impact driver would be perfect this if they don't won't to come out. I have never had any problems with them (for some reason i've had the best luck on my car where no bolts have been seized up).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Im in the hampton roads area, which I think I could almost get to South Carolina faster than I could get up past DC. If you are standing in front of your car looking at the engine it should be down on the right side of the IM (intake manifold), about halfway down with two screws. An impact driver would be perfect this if they don't won't to come out. I have never had any problems with them (for some reason i've had the best luck on my car where no bolts have been seized up).

Okay man thanks. I have not seen many 3g preludes by my area to ask anyone about this. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is the radiator still leaking?
Yes it is its only at the top like where the plastic meets the metal? It only leaks when there is more than over that otherwise it is fine. I oredered one off ebay for like $70 shop wanted to charge me $180. The sensor i had to take to a shop because the bolts were on there soo tight it was not funny. Took the guy like 30 mins just to get one off lol the stuttering i was told was caused by the sensor and the aem filter was dirty so i just bought a cheap one for now until i clean the aem one. Also throttle body might need to be clean so it is getting cleaned out. Thermostat is going bad so will change that also. :) Just hate not being to work or clean the car in this dammmn cold. :wzbigcry:
 

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The radiator leak is more important than any of that other stuff. If it overheats, the 20 year old head gasket will most likely blow. Than you might be in for a real setback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The radiator leak is more important than any of that other stuff. If it overheats, the 20 year old head gasket will most likely blow. Than you might be in for a real setback.
Okay so i have a question its out of this thread but since you know more than i do. I just changed the iat sensor which was dirty as anything i bought a new one so i just replaced it. Now my ecu is telling me two codes CODE 10 and CODE 43. Why would it be CODE 10 again if the sensor was just replaced? Code 43 i might agree with because it feels at time like not enough gas is getting to the engine. But why code 10 again? I just got the radiator today so i might do it monday and also do the thermostat and the coolant level is fine i just checked and my friend just cleaned out the throthle body which was really dirty he said. So any ideas on the ecu? I disconected it but it still shows the codes i talked about. Please and thanks.
 

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Code 10: Air Temperature Sensor: The air temperature (TA) sensor is mounted on the #1 cylinder intake runner. The sensor consists of a thermistor bulb. As air temperature increases, sensor resistance decreases. The ECU receives sensor information as resistance to ground on pin C5. Air temperature information is used along with information from the PA sensor to determine air density and adjust fuel delivery accordingly.
Wow! This has to be the most informative post I have ever seen! Kudos to you Sir!
 

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I would assume code 10 and 43 could go hand in hand. If the ECU is not seeing correct or accurate temperature readings then the fuel supplied will not be correct. The ECU uses the air temperature among other things for compensation tables to know how much fuel and ignition are required.

I would replace the IAT and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I would assume code 10 and 43 could go hand in hand. If the ECU is not seeing correct or accurate temperature readings then the fuel supplied will not be correct. The ECU uses the air temperature among other things for compensation tables to know how much fuel and ignition are required.

I would replace the IAT and go from there.
Well i replaced the IAT already its brand new i checked to see if it was the same as the original one on the engine and its a perfect match. However the ECU is still throwing CODE 10 which makes no sense i replaced it and i have no idea why its doing that. The fuel filter i will replace Monday i hope and that might be the problem since the filter might be plugged up from 20 years of fuel going in it. I hope that is the problem if not eitherway its still a good idea i think that i should do that. The fuel pump will be my next part to check if the engine doesnt get better. It feels at times like either not enough air or fuel is getting in. I replaced the air filter on Thursday i have a cold air intake so it was dirty from all the dust from the roads. I have been researching and the first thing that should be replaced is the fuel filter so ive read. Let me know if you think im going in the right direction. Thanks again everyone for your advice.
 

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Well the fuel filter should always replaced when you dont know the condition of it. Also have you checked your harness as stated above by the other members?
 
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