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Discussion Starter #1
So, long story short, I replaced my dizzy on my B21 and wasn't aware of how touchy the small rotations of the distributor once mounted were. So now, I can't get my Lude to turn over. (I know I know, stupid move).

I don't have a timing light right now, and I'm sure I'll need one, but I was wondering where the service connector is that I need to jumper so the ECU stops screwing with my adjustments. I had it running at one point, but it was rough and backfiring. Made a small adjustment, now it won't turn over.

Also, figured I would ask, is there any way I could just take the first spark plug out, bump the motor with the starter to get the piston all the way up there, put the plug back, and then take the cap off the dizzy to align the rotor to just before #1 on the cap?
 

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Putting the distributor centered in it's range of adjustment should be fairly close to where it should be. Not enough out that the car won't run in any case, sounds to me like you've got another issue.
Why did you replace the distributor?
 

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...I replaced my dizzy on my B21...I had it running at one point, but it was rough and backfiring...
1. Have you got the spark plug leads on correctly at the distributor? Page 16-48 shows how they should be connected.
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/PreludeManual/62sf100/16-47.pdf

2. Is the rotor retaining screw holding the rotor securely on the shaft? (Shown on page 16-49)

...I was wondering where the service connector is that I need to jumper...
Jumper location shown on page 16-46.
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/PreludeManual/62sf100/16-44.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I replaced my distributor because my old one was leaky from all over and needed cap/rotor so I figured I'd get a whole one from Rockauto while they were still around to get. My old one still worked, however.

So, I've tried everything. Jumping the ECU wire, rotating the dizzy a little, installing the old one to see if that would do anything, quadruple checked wire location and made sure they were all tight, and it still just cranks and cranks and occasionally tries to fire up, but can't.

Also, the rotor screw on both distributors hasn't been touched. I'm wondering if I cooked my ignition coil trying to crank it so many times?
 

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Engine wont "turn over"? I am sure you mean "wont fire" The engine not rotating is not caused by the distributor. As far as not firing, to me it sounds like you installed the distributor 180* out from TDC #1. This is supposed to be non-possible, but I have seen many force fuck the distributor in wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Engine wont "turn over"? I am sure you mean "wont fire" The engine not rotating is not caused by the distributor. As far as not firing, to me it sounds like you installed the distributor 180* out from TDC #1. This is supposed to be non-possible, but I have seen many force fuck the distributor in wrong.
Yes, I mean it will crank but not turn over. And I've tried the 180 flip, just to see if I did, but it wouldn't guide into the motor and I didn't force it. When it goes in easy, I popped it in.
 

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The cap should have hash marks on the wire post. The engine is 1-4 with timing belt side being 1. Double check that.
 

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Yes, I mean it will crank but not turn over. And I've tried the 180 flip, just to see if I did, but it wouldn't guide into the motor and I didn't force it. When it goes in easy, I popped it in.
Just had to check, seen too many people bit by that mistake. But cranking is still turning over... And you cannot cook your ignition coil by cranking it too much, it is designed to fire every crank rotation regardless if the rotation is due to the starter, or by combustion. I see you have already done as colluder and cudaboy have suggested and check for proper wire placement. There is not enough adjustment in the distributor to prevent the engine from running. Have you checked for spark at all? I don't see that you have mentioned it. It might also be beneficial to check spark on more than wire. At this point it my be worth checking the alignment of the rotor as you stated in your first post. It is possible that during the re-manufacturing, the distributor drive was installed backwards. Get it close with the starter, then use a small prybar or large screw driver on the ring gear through the timing hole on the bell housing until the TDC marks line up.
 

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he said he reinstalled the old distributor which was working but leaking oil and it still wouldn't start. That is why I told him to check his wire arrangement via the hash marks on the distributor cap. Why use a screwdriver or pry bar. Much easier if have two people to just put a socket on the crank pulley bolt and adjust. The distributor cap will have marks like l, ll, lll, llll or maybe lV for the fourth. From everything I have heard on here if the distributor isn't 180 degrees out of sync it will fire no matter where it is set at. Albeit may not run very good. Future reference if you don't have a timing light and need to take the distributor off and reinstall it. Just take a black sharpie and draw a line across the upper tab on cam end cap and distributor upper mounting tab. If you wanted to you use a scribe or scratch awl and scratch a small line down the middle of this sharpie mark. But yeah eventually the timing should be set with a timing light.

Also you can pick up a tool pen made by lisle tools should be available at any O'Reilly's or sears store. You place it on the different spark plug wires and or coil wire to see if your getting spark. Should be available for around $10 or little more. It is also available on amazon.com and I have a picture of this tool in my oddball and large tool thread in the red sticky F.A.Q. at top of 3rd gen main forum page. You should become familiar with its listings. The pen lights up and picks up the spark going through the wire via magnetic induction. The darker it is under the hood the easier to see the light on the pen.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The cap should have hash marks on the wire post. The engine is 1-4 with timing belt side being 1. Double check that.
I did, the manual I saw and the cap itself says II, I, ignition, III, IIII. And I have those plugs on it in that order.
Just had to check, seen too many people bit by that mistake. But cranking is still turning over... And you cannot cook your ignition coil by cranking it too much, it is designed to fire every crank rotation regardless if the rotation is due to the starter, or by combustion. I see you have already done as colluder and cudaboy have suggested and check for proper wire placement. There is not enough adjustment in the distributor to prevent the engine from running. Have you checked for spark at all? I don't see that you have mentioned it. It might also be beneficial to check spark on more than wire. At this point it my be worth checking the alignment of the rotor as you stated in your first post. It is possible that during the re-manufacturing, the distributor drive was installed backwards. Get it close with the starter, then use a small prybar or large screw driver on the ring gear through the timing hole on the bell housing until the TDC marks line up.
I recently checked for spark from the ignition coil to the distributor, being that both distributors have the same symptoms, I assumed both had spark to the plugs. After all, the old one worked fine. The spark was orange-ish and was noticeable.
he said he reinstalled the old distributor which was working but leaking oil and it still wouldn't start. That is why I told him to check his wire arrangement via the hash marks on the distributor cap. Why use a screwdriver or pry bar. Much easier if have two people to just put a socket on the crank pulley bolt and adjust. The distributor cap will have marks like l, ll, lll, llll or maybe lV for the fourth. From everything I have heard on here if the distributor isn't 180 degrees out of sync it will fire no matter where it is set at. Albeit may not run very good. Future reference if you don't have a timing light and need to take the distributor off and reinstall it. Just take a black sharpie and draw a line across the upper tab on cam end cap and distributor upper mounting tab. If you wanted to you use a scribe or scratch awl and scratch a small line down the middle of this sharpie mark. But yeah eventually the timing should be set with a timing light.

Also you can pick up a tool pen made by lisle tools should be available at any O'Reilly's or sears store. You place it on the different spark plug wires and or coil wire to see if your getting spark. Should be available for around $10 or little more. It is also available on amazon.com and I have a picture of this tool in my oddball and large tool thread in the red sticky F.A.Q. at top of 3rd gen main forum page. You should become familiar with its listings. The pen lights up and picks up the spark going through the wire via magnetic induction. The darker it is under the hood the easier to see the light on the pen.
I may be able to borrow a plug tester like that from a buddy.

**********However, I will note to everyone that I noticed that my positive cable isn't as tight as it was on the post of the battery and the cable won't get tighter (going to buy a new clamp tomorrow). Would a somewhat loose connection cause the starter to get power, but the coil can't get enough to ignite?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Problem solved. It was the loose battery terminal. Threw a shim on the post and voila. Thanks guys, sorry I wasted your time. Lol
 

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Problem solved. It was the loose battery terminal. Threw a shim on the post and voila. Thanks guys, sorry I wasted your time. Lol
Glad to hear you figured out your problem. It's often the simple things that trip us up the most. Sounds like you learned the hard way to always verify the basics before digging into more complex solutions.
 
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