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Discussion Starter #1
The car shuts off after starting. It'll do it repeatedly. When the key is turned on the lights don't turn on. A lot of jiggling and moving is required to start it. My question is if the key needs to get reprogrammed if I get a new switch.
 

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No, a new key is not needed when replacing the ignition switch.

I actually carry a spare switch in my trunk since mine is original - simple swap that can be done on the fly if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, a new key is not needed when replacing the ignition switch.

I actually carry a spare switch in my trunk since mine is original - simple swap that can be done on the fly if need be.
Does this fix the problem of the key having a hard time going in or is that what the ignition start cylinder is for. I've been told I can take it to the dealership and have it done for free
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I called the dealership and it appears that the previous owner had already did the recall.
 

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No, key insertion issues would be the key cylinder. You may have bad tumblers within or a worn key .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Then I have a bad tumbler. I tried using the spare key and both have issues turning.
 

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Have you tried lubricating the lock cylinder? Are the keys worn? If either key is original, one of them might have the key code engraved on it, which the dealer could use to cut a new key.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have no original key both keys I have are copies from the main one, that's just how it was when we got the car. The key kinda struggles on the door looks too
 

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Have you tried lubricating the lock cylinder? Are the keys worn? If either key is original, one of them might have the key code engraved on it, which the dealer could use to cut a new key.
Keys cut by a dealer or supplied with original purchase of the vehicle new- do not come with the code engraved. Would make for an easy theft if so.
 

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so i just replaced my ingition SWITCH...was replaced by recall years ago...car sat for a while, i think that didnt help....also had problem with key....found the key was going to far into barel, using a factory key fixed it, it wasnt a barrel /tumbler problem , it was a key problem
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My car had been sitting for 3 years. Only issue is I only have copied keys. I don't have any original keys. It's going to be difficult, unless I'm able to buy a OEM key and reprogram it.
 

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My car had been sitting for 3 years. Only issue is I only have copied keys. I don't have any original keys. It's going to be difficult, unless I'm able to buy a OEM key and reprogram it.
A dealer or locksmith can cut and copy a master key onto whats called a "t5" key. This way the code is simply copied onto the new key. Otherwise you need the original red key in order to program new keys.

Our systems can only retain so many keys in its memory, so whenever having a new key cut/programmed- be sure to have all keys on hand in the event one is kicked from memory.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So basically there isn't any thing I can do because I don't have the original master key or red key
 

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So basically there isn't any thing I can do because I don't have the original master key or red key
You have a programmed key, be it original or an aftermarket - that's all you need since the digital code for the immobilizer can be coppied onto a new key.

If you had no keys at all, you would have an issue.


Keys can be cut all day long using the VIN number in Honda's system as mentioned by gorstak
 

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Keys cut by a dealer or supplied with original purchase of the vehicle new- do not come with the code engraved. Would make for an easy theft if so.
Oops, didn't see that this was the 5G section. Models early than that do typically have the code on the key. Newer vehicles came with the keys on a ring with a tag stamped with the code, up until the switch to the sidewinder keys, at which point they abandoned the practice completely. Alternatively, you could pull one of the locks out to retrieve the code. Typically we choose the trunk because it is the easiest.
 

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You do not need to do anytihing with the keys, just replace the electrical part of the ignition switch .
 

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Oops, didn't see that this was the 5G section. Models early than that do typically have the code on the key. Newer vehicles came with the keys on a ring with a tag stamped with the code, up until the switch to the sidewinder keys, at which point they abandoned the practice completely. Alternatively, you could pull one of the locks out to retrieve the code. Typically we choose the trunk because it is the easiest.
A little OT from the OP's issue, but anyway;
Sidewinders also came with the code on a small plastic tag with purchase of a new car.

You do not need to do anytihing with the keys, just replace the electrical part of the ignition switch .
It appears there is a shutting off issue as well as key insertion/turning issue.
 

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From what I read in the OP is the car starts then dies out is the contact points going out in the switch... repeated turning on and off cycling of key will eventually catch and run.
 

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A little OT from the OP's issue, but anyway;
Sidewinders also came with the code on a small plastic tag with purchase of a new car.
Oh? Interesting, never run across one before.

It appears there is a shutting off issue as well as key insertion/turning issue.
No, just the switch. He's just trying to manipulate the switch until it works by using the key.
 
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