Couldnt find any writeups for how to do this, so after days and days of running wire and poring over wiring diagrams, i finally got them to work and decided a writeup was in order.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
1. Seat heaters out of a CDM prelude.
2. Heated seat pigtail from under seat
2. Heated seat switches and shrouds from CDM door panels
3. Heated seat relay, labeled "MITSUBA JAPAN RC-5001 12V NO 60 G"
4. PATIENCE! Go slow and follow this guide. you got this!
LETS BEGIN!
STEP 1. MODIFYING THE STOCK SEATS!
You will be removing the seat covers and inserting/removing the heater grids.
Below are the tricky areas that will try to prevent you from accomplishing this wonderful feat.
- The Headrest adjustment button
There is a screw underneath this to remove the plastic panel at the top of the seat. Insert a small flathead between the button and the plastic panel and press down. should pop up and out. There is a spring youll need to make sure not to lose as well.
- Seat Pan Adjustment Wheel.
This is held in with a pressure ring youll need to get out first. a pair of angled pliers and a small flathead will aid you in getting this thing out. i broke mine trying to figure that one out so trust me on this one.
After that the knob slides off, and you can continue with the seat disassembly
- Inside the seat
Once you have the plastics off, you will find clips stretching the cover to the seat pan. unhooking these should be relatively straightforward. Once thats done, you will be able to pull the seat cover back far enough to peer under the seat cover and see the seat heater grids. They are held in on either side by the plastic tag things that hold labels on clothing items in stores. Simply cut them and gently work the heated element out as it is pretty contoured. There may be springs littered throughout that attach the cover *to the seat pan. you should be able to release these underneath the seat pan if there are any. i may be confusing these with the prelude seats however, so your mileage may vary.
STEP 2: Modifying your door panes for the CDM Switches
Start by removing your door panels. Turn them over and take a look at the map pockets. With any luck, the heated seat switches will have come with a couple shrouds that you will need to screw into the door panel. You will need to cut out a rectangle about 2 inches by 1 inch, with a hole on either end drilled so you can screw the things down. Once youve mounted the shrouds, dont pop them in yet. youll need the switches connected to the harness for testing purposes.
Step 3: Running wiring through the door harness
Disconnect door harness and pop out of door and chassis (this will require removal of fenders to gain access to the harnesses
BE CAREFUL! there are many wires running through this harness, and damaging them means big trouble for anything connected to your door switches. i dont need to elaborate on how important this is. That said, grab a paperclip and begin probing for unused pins through the grease. Find a block of 4 unused wire locations and carefully expand them toward each other with a drill so that they are one giant glory hole. You will need to do this for both sides of the connector on the door connector and the chassis connector.
Once you have the drilling done, run your wires through. Refer to wiring diagram below.
Step 4. Making it all work
Ive taken the pain of making a diagram for you noobs. This shows you where each and every wire is supposed to go.
WIRING DIAGRAM:
If youve hooked everything up correctly, your ass should be nice and toasty by now!
Rep gladly accepted!
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
1. Seat heaters out of a CDM prelude.
2. Heated seat pigtail from under seat
2. Heated seat switches and shrouds from CDM door panels
3. Heated seat relay, labeled "MITSUBA JAPAN RC-5001 12V NO 60 G"
4. PATIENCE! Go slow and follow this guide. you got this!
LETS BEGIN!
STEP 1. MODIFYING THE STOCK SEATS!
You will be removing the seat covers and inserting/removing the heater grids.
Below are the tricky areas that will try to prevent you from accomplishing this wonderful feat.
- The Headrest adjustment button
There is a screw underneath this to remove the plastic panel at the top of the seat. Insert a small flathead between the button and the plastic panel and press down. should pop up and out. There is a spring youll need to make sure not to lose as well.
- Seat Pan Adjustment Wheel.
This is held in with a pressure ring youll need to get out first. a pair of angled pliers and a small flathead will aid you in getting this thing out. i broke mine trying to figure that one out so trust me on this one.
After that the knob slides off, and you can continue with the seat disassembly
- Inside the seat
Once you have the plastics off, you will find clips stretching the cover to the seat pan. unhooking these should be relatively straightforward. Once thats done, you will be able to pull the seat cover back far enough to peer under the seat cover and see the seat heater grids. They are held in on either side by the plastic tag things that hold labels on clothing items in stores. Simply cut them and gently work the heated element out as it is pretty contoured. There may be springs littered throughout that attach the cover *to the seat pan. you should be able to release these underneath the seat pan if there are any. i may be confusing these with the prelude seats however, so your mileage may vary.
STEP 2: Modifying your door panes for the CDM Switches
Start by removing your door panels. Turn them over and take a look at the map pockets. With any luck, the heated seat switches will have come with a couple shrouds that you will need to screw into the door panel. You will need to cut out a rectangle about 2 inches by 1 inch, with a hole on either end drilled so you can screw the things down. Once youve mounted the shrouds, dont pop them in yet. youll need the switches connected to the harness for testing purposes.
Step 3: Running wiring through the door harness
Disconnect door harness and pop out of door and chassis (this will require removal of fenders to gain access to the harnesses
BE CAREFUL! there are many wires running through this harness, and damaging them means big trouble for anything connected to your door switches. i dont need to elaborate on how important this is. That said, grab a paperclip and begin probing for unused pins through the grease. Find a block of 4 unused wire locations and carefully expand them toward each other with a drill so that they are one giant glory hole. You will need to do this for both sides of the connector on the door connector and the chassis connector.
Once you have the drilling done, run your wires through. Refer to wiring diagram below.
Step 4. Making it all work
Ive taken the pain of making a diagram for you noobs. This shows you where each and every wire is supposed to go.
WIRING DIAGRAM:
If youve hooked everything up correctly, your ass should be nice and toasty by now!
Rep gladly accepted!