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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got ths progress adjustable sway bar and progress endlinks from www.horsepowerfreaks.com for $318 shipped. I guess they had some sort of special as its about $350 right now… I’ve heard good things about this bar, that it works wonders. I will give my opinion after some driving :D

Difficulty? I would say 1.6/5.0

Why did I do this?
The instructions are vauge, and everyone seems to have issues on mounting the brackets. Plus its sort of hard to understand what they mean when the bracket faces "forward" or "back".

As always.... I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW UP/KILL SOMEONE/KILL YOURSELF/DESTROY PROPERTY/DESTROY YOUR PROPERTY/BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN OR ANYTHING WHATSOEVER REMOTELY RELATED TO THIS THREAD OR ANY THREAD/RESPONSE TO A THREAD BY ME. INCLDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO A SWAY BAR INSTALL!!! DO EVERYTHING AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
This writeup assumes you can figure some things out such as what washers are used for, how to safely lift a car, alignment of parts etc. keep this in mind.

Lets begin :)

For torque settings, consult the helms manual:



1)
Begin by suspending the car from the rear lower control arms, as close as possible to the the wheel. I did this by jacking the car up from the jacking point in front of the rear wheel, removed the wheel then placed the jackstand. I’m so pimp I used 7 layers of protection. A jackstand on the actual lower control arm (blue jackstand) and another not touching, but directly under the chassis under the trunk (orange jackstand). Oh and of course the wheel under just in case. Plus the jack under the rear crossmember. Ok im paranoid but I don’t wanna be smashed!

Why lift under the lower control arms? The sway bar has to be installed at “ride height” meaning it has to be installed as if the car were sitting on the wheels. Its actually somewhat “spring loaded” between the body and the suspension, the bar unites the body to the suspension. Sorta.



2)
Locate the endlink nuts:

Drivers side



And the passengers side






3)
You will need a 17mm wrench and a 6mm hex socket. Put some PB blaster on it for a while, mine were a bit rusted. Hold the center with the 6mm hex socket and rotate the 17mm nut CCW.



BAM! its out!


4)
At this point, I HIGLY suggest you remove the muffler by removing the 2x 14mm nuts. It makes it a breeze. (No pics of removal, but you will see that its gone :D)


5)
Remove the stock sway bar brackets. Have a helper hold one end so it doesn’t fall on you. Its not deadly heavy that it’ll choke you to death, but you still don’t want it to smash your face.
You will need to remove these two 12mm bolts:




6)
If you removed the muffler, it’ll just slide right out. Otherwise, good luck. Put the stock one side by side with the the new one and marvel at its beauty :D




7)
Time to install the brackets! Use a big washer and some of the 13mm bolts to attach the brackets to the car. Also attach the small 10mm bolts to the mounts. You will need to lift up the brass bracket (on the drivers side) and the heatsheild (on the passengers side) to install the bracket. Don’t worry, pictures :D (red arrow points towards front of car)

! The bolts that go to the body are 16 ft-lbs according to the helms manual !

! The ones supplied by Progress are 13mmfor the 2x large ones and 10mm for the small one !

The drivers side is at about 80* (you'll see its angled)
Drivers side:




The passengers side is at about 90*
Passengers side:



8)
Grease the Rubber D bushings and mount them on the car close to where the stock ones were



9)
I suggest attaching the endlinks to the sway bar first, and screwing them in. It’ll be 1000x easier, as it’ll be hanging there and you can move it around as needed.
Picture is for passengers side, arrow points towards front of car.

adjust them to the length of the OEM ones and apply. Lock tighten the end link bolts in the end.

! The bolts on the endlink ends are 43 ft-lbs according to the helms manual !
! They are 16mm !

10)

Attach the metal brackets for the D bushings and mount them to the car:



! The bolts that attach the D bracket to the brackets are 16 ft-lbs according to the helms manual !
! They are 14mm !

11)
Attach the holding rings, and BAM! Your done :D
 

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Bad ass, gotta do this......when I care.....[sits back on the couch and pops open a beer]

EDIT: Ok Ok, I feel like you have done this site so much good, not to mention you are one of the other extrememly helpful members, so I will give you a reputation point. You deserve it.
 

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don't you have to install the bar with pre-load, as in with the "weight" of the driver, for best results? i see that you set the car to "ride height" so wouldn't it be better if you installed the bar at "drive height?" that's what i've been told when installing the sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
don't you have to install the bar with pre-load, as in with the "weight" of the driver, for best results? i see that you set the car to "ride height" so wouldn't it be better if you installed the bar at "drive height?" that's what i've been told when installing the sway bar.
I read about that too somewhere, but it doesn't exactly make sense to me. The stock end links are a set length and not adjustable. Removing it at "ride height" was easy and smooth. Attaching the new adjustable ones was as well. Preloading might make the install smoother... The progress install manual says to install it at "ride height".

Unless for some reason the end links have to be as short as possible, which doesn't make sense. The install manual says to measure to the stock end link size, and to install at ride height.

Any suspension gurus like to clear this up?
 

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I can't tell., but did you have to drill the holes for the bracket, or were they already there for something else?

What else needs minor machining/working? I can't really tell, but it looks like you just bolted it right on!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
have you done anything else to the suspension besides the bar?
Nothing else! Its bone stock really with the exception of a skunk2 shift knob and energy suspension inserts

I can't tell., but did you have to drill the holes for the bracket, or were they already there for something else?

What else needs minor machining/working? I can't really tell, but it looks like you just bolted it right on!

No drilling was necessary, every single part lined up without a problem.
 

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I was under the impression that people who tracked their cars with these rear sway bars experienced their brackets (7) tearing out, provoking them to weld them to the car? Anyone else seen this?
 

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I was under the impression that people who tracked their cars with these rear sway bars experienced their brackets (7) tearing out, provoking them to weld them to the car? Anyone else seen this?
I have heard something similiar as well but I am not sure how much of a problem it really is. Progress sway bar owners should chime in.
 
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