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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok during this past saturday meet I turned off my headlights to signal bye to firaga21 and when i tried to turn it back on 2 seconds later it did not come back on.

just 20mins ago i turned off my headlights to flash the guy infront of me to go since he didnt have a gate card and i did to our apartment and it didnt come back on again!

some back ground on the situation.
only had hids for maybe a month.
hids in fogs dont have a problem at all.
both times it happened after extended drive(over 20mins)
driver side attempts to turn back on during driving but it does not stay on
if i do not turn it off, so far it has never turned off on me during driving.
if it wasn't for hid fogs i would have been screwed on the highway

question: ANYONE CARE TO EXPLAIN THIS?
...later i find out randy(firaga21) noticed my passenger side off before we even got on the highway, but my car was on with the lights on for over 30mins at the meet because my friend was cold so she stayed in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
is the wires disconnected?
no thats the first thing i checked. wires connected. fuses are good.
it comes on after i leave them off for awhile or when i rev up like at highway speeds(well they attempt to turn back on and stay on).
 

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it's U!! y would u turn ur hid's on & off within seconds?? thats ur problem right there. U'll have to wait a couple of mins before turning it on if u just turned it off. u damaged the hid bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it's U!! y would u turn ur hid's on & off within seconds?? thats ur problem right there. U'll have to wait a couple of mins before turning it on if u just turned it off. u damaged the hid bulbs.
well way to get your point across. i'll be calm and respond nicely
why would i turn them off and on within seconds? i stated why in my first post. (twice)
i did not know i had to wait before turning them back on. thanks for the info. my hids still work, i will just remember not to turn them off and on so quickly.

but another thing. when i dropped off my friend that night, the car sat for a while off(more then just a couple mins) and when i returned it still showed issues with staying on. do i have to wait for it to completely cool down?
 

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I think it's obvious. You have low end HID kits and while they do work they can't provide enough voltage for a HOT restrike. A hot restrike is when you turn off the HID's and then turn them back on within 30 seconds. The HID bulb is still glowing red hot...it takes a lot more voltage to fire that hot bulb then a bulb that has been sitting for several minutes or hours.

Don't you still have H1 highbeams? Can you just flash those if you need to flash lights at people?

If your having trouble keeping them lit even on cold starts you may need to think about getting new ballasts.

- JL
 

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I had that problem back then too due to switching the headlights on and off to signal to people!!! I found out by doing that that it slowly started to burn the HID fuse to the headlights n then it finally gave out.

So check ur little fuse box to ur headlight HID and see if it's slowly burning out.

OVERALL like JLUDE stated......NO MORE FLICKING OF THE HID HEADLIGHTS!!! :top:

:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 

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I think it's obvious. You have low end HID kits and while they do work they can't provide enough voltage for a HOT restrike. A hot restrike is when you turn off the HID's and then turn them back on within 30 seconds. The HID bulb is still glowing red hot...it takes a lot more voltage to fire that hot bulb then a bulb that has been sitting for several minutes or hours.

Don't you still have H1 highbeams? Can you just flash those if you need to flash lights at people?

If your having trouble keeping them lit even on cold starts you may need to think about getting new ballasts.

- JL
My thoughts exactly. Cheap kits = cheap quality.
 

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I had a some what similar problem. The head light fuse blew but the hids would still flicker trying 2 turn on and i replaced the fuse and never had the problem again.
And this is EXACTLY why HID's should never be run off your stock wiring. Use a PnP HID wiring harness or risk damaging more than just your headlight fuse!
 

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And this is EXACTLY why HID's should never be run off your stock wiring. Use a PnP HID wiring harness or risk damaging more than just your headlight fuse!
i have the pnp harness everything came with the kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks for the replies guys. ok maybe my kit is not of high quality. i bought them off a guy that gets them from who knows where(some where over seas).

my hids are running off a custom wire harness with seperate fuses and relays as well.
and i don't have the h1 highs in at the moment. i have to find them. misplaced them.

thanks for the info jlude about the hot restrike
 

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And this is EXACTLY why HID's should never be run off your stock wiring. Use a PnP HID wiring harness or risk damaging more than just your headlight fuse!
I've been running my ballast off my stock harness for about 5 years with no problems at all. I know a few other guys that I've done retrofits for as well who are doing the same. A PnP harness isn't really needed especially since the ballast I'm using are only 35w ballast and a factory bulb is 55w. Might need a PnP harness if you're running an aftermarket kit, but not an OEM kit
 

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I've been running my ballast off my stock harness for about 5 years with no problems at all. I know a few other guys that I've done retrofits for as well who are doing the same. A PnP harness isn't really needed especially since the ballast I'm using are only 35w ballast and a factory bulb is 55w. Might need a PnP harness if you're running an aftermarket kit, but not an OEM kit
While it is true that an HID ballast only runs at 35Watts instead of the 55Watts that the H1 bulb required we have to think about amperage draw (actually current pull) during the first 15 seconds of an HID ballast fire and warm up stage. During this time the ballast draws up to 12 amps EACH before leveling off to about 3.5 amps during it's 35 watt burn. Compare this to the 55 Watt halogen which draws around 5amps from the time you turn it on till the time you turn it off.

In short an HID ballast pulls almost 250% more amperage during it's warm up phase (~15 seconds) and this can damage stock wiring. From your experience I think it shows that the Honda stock wiring can handle this but some vehicles cannot (especially older cars). Better to be safe than sorry IMO.

- JL
 

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a foolish friend of mine got into my car and began flickering my hids on and off for a good 45-60 secs. needless to say, i've never had a problem w/ my stock wiring. but of course for safe measure, i'm making my own wire harness for my retros. jlude, do you think 14g wiring will be sufficient to handle the amperage?
 

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a foolish friend of mine got into my car and began flickering my hids on and off for a good 45-60 secs. needless to say, i've never had a problem w/ my stock wiring. but of course for safe measure, i'm making my own wire harness for my retros. jlude, do you think 14g wiring will be sufficient to handle the amperage?
14 gauge is plenty, 16 gauge is the smallest I would use though. I use 14 gauge for the power and grounds and 18 gauge for the 85 and 86 pins on the relay (signal for on/off). Be sure that it is at least 150 degree rated wire with thick insulation and ideally use plastic wire loom around all power and ground wires for extra wear and short protection.

- JL
 

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While it is true that an HID ballast only runs at 35Watts instead of the 55Watts that the H1 bulb required we have to think about amperage draw (actually current pull) during the first 15 seconds of an HID ballast fire and warm up stage. During this time the ballast draws up to 12 amps EACH before leveling off to about 3.5 amps during it's 35 watt burn. Compare this to the 55 Watt halogen which draws around 5amps from the time you turn it on till the time you turn it off.

In short an HID ballast pulls almost 250% more amperage during it's warm up phase (~15 seconds) and this can damage stock wiring. From your experience I think it shows that the Honda stock wiring can handle this but some vehicles cannot (especially older cars). Better to be safe than sorry IMO.

- JL
nice i want to know that

also if there isnt enough voltage the balist wont turn on

ie 2004 cavaler runs 11.5 volts to the head lights and it makes the hids flash
 

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also if there isnt enough voltage the balist wont turn on

ie 2004 cavaler runs 11.5 volts to the head lights and it makes the hids flash
Good point. Depends on the voltage range of the specific ballast. Most OEM's need at least 12 volts, ideally closer to 14 volts and can handle up to 16 or 18 volt surges. Some have an even broader range which is good for motorcycles and other applications where voltage could spike with a misshift or high rpm blast.
 

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14 gauge is plenty, 16 gauge is the smallest I would use though. I use 14 gauge for the power and grounds and 18 gauge for the 85 and 86 pins on the relay (signal for on/off). Be sure that it is at least 150 degree rated wire with thick insulation and ideally use plastic wire loom around all power and ground wires for extra wear and short protection.

- JL
thanks for the advice. i am and will use wire loom. i bought them bulk, 100ft 3/8'' for 8 bucks. talk about deals. since i got the 14g in bulk i'm just going to wire up everything using it. i'm stuck on how i should mount this wire to the battery. this is as far as my laziness has allowed me to do. you can't see it but there's an inline fuse soldered, and heatshrunk onto that.

 
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