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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It seems everytime I start a new thread, it always has to do with my car being disagreeable lol. So, after trying to do a valve seal job with compressed air or pulling the head, I dropped a valve(the last one at that ) so i pulled the head to put it back it. I figure since I am there, why not put a new head gasket in, makes sense. I clean all the shit on the head and black, put a new one in, dip the original bolts in oil (like the book says) and torque them do in the proper sequence. The car ran ok for a bit, now runs like shit and has oil slowly leaking from around the head. I figure its leaking, any ideas to what I did wrong/ how to fix this?
 

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hmm wait for rjudgey he would know for sure im stumped on that . maybe a valve seal leak
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i just losened them in the pattern i put them them on(middle then side to side) The book said first torque to 22ft lbs. then 49 ft lbs. Is there a way to tell if everything is warped?
 

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Is there a way to tell if everything is warped?
There is, but in order to find out for sure if it's warped is to pull it off and check it with a feeler gauge and straight edge (not a ruler, a machined piece of steel that is perfectly straight). Or the other option is to pull the head and send it off to a machine shop and have them check it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am willing to bet this is a bad idea, but could I torque them down 5 ft lbs. more to maybe push into the gasket more? or will I just snap my head bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
and if the head is warped, can I just get that machined, or do I need the top of the block also decked?
 

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You could try bolting it down or your best bet would be clean off the block and start your engine up and check to see where it was leaking from....

Oh and most important did you double check that your tourqed all the bolts and didnt miss one? (i am pretty sure ya did) lol what kind of gasket did you use?
 

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The block is probably fine. They're pretty tough. If the head isn't warped too much it can just be milled flat.


Recheck the bolts to make sure they're still torqued correctly. Maybe one loosened up? Also could there be a piece of old gasket or other crud stuck under the new gasket? An extra 5lbs shouldn't hurt anything either.

C|
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nah, I checked all of them again (49 ft. lbs.) and I cleaned the block and head. I even saved the HD (for my wall of fail) and I didn't see any missing pieces or anything. I am useing a fel-pro napa head gasket. so give it another 5 ft. lbs.? Or I guess this means i have to mill the head.......................shit. Since it will be off, and I have to go to work and napa might be closed by the time i get there, A) how much does sivalves usually charge B)does napa sell exhaust side valve spring sets with retainers and keepers and such C) what is the part number for ARP head studs?
 

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nah, I checked all of them again (49 ft. lbs.) and I cleaned the block and head. I even saved the HD (for my wall of fail) and I didn't see any missing pieces or anything. I am useing a fel-pro napa head gasket. so give it another 5 ft. lbs.? Or I guess this means i have to mill the head.......................shit. Since it will be off, and I have to go to work and napa might be closed by the time i get there, A) how much does sivalves usually charge B)does napa sell exhaust side valve spring sets with retainers and keepers and such C) what is the part number for ARP head studs?

Part number for ARP head studs is "218-470". ARP lists these for a Mazda 2L but they fit our engines too. Used them on mine and they are very nice parts.

Not sure about the other stuff. Fel-Pro makes good gaskets too. That's odd you had a problem, unless the head really is warped.

C|
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the only reason I replaced it was because it made sense at the time since I dropper the valve, I have never had over heating issues either. I also did not see anything about a loosening procedure in my chiltons, just tightening(which I did to the t)
 

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head bolts

I normally do mine to around 60-65lbft and even more if it's leaking badly, they allways leak around the corners the secret is to use a tiny thin layer of gasket sealant around the corners of the block this stops the gasket leaking oil out, as for it running shitty who knows, my gasket started leaking coolant in to the cylinders (hopefully the gasket!!) so i've torqued mine down but i'm pretty sure the damage has been done allready so waisting my time on that but worth a shot first, will tell me if it's head gasket or crack, the crack will keep blowing white steam out the back, the head gasket when retorqued should hold for a while at idle before starting to leak again. so if it holds up good for a few miles then starts blowing smoke again i know it's the gasket, again my head is probably a bit warped from when i drove it 10 miles with no coolant, even though it was pretty cold night and i had the fan and the bonnet open it must have got just a bit too hot, again this could have added extra pressure onto the gasket and when it cooled back down was a bit loose and the pressures in the engine have forced their way through, so the head might not be warped which is probably right as it's taken a few hundred miles to develop since i had the run without coolant. So hopefully for me a new gasket will sort it out.
 

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you have to watch on those gaskets as well cause they have a little tab on the side and the a20 i picked up that needed rebuilt and gone through this tab was folded over and in pinched between the head and the block and that could probally cause some problems, also it is right there at the corner of the block so yea definately not good
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i have my tab under the support for the support for the the power steering house. So you say give it 60 ft. lbs.? I could have swore I cleaned everything, did exactly how the book said it should be done, no corner cutting. The car almost seemed to be miss fireing and running like piss, i read that low comp can do that i just haven't bothered to do a compression test yet.....
 

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test

do that first might not be the gasket could be oil leaking through the guides fouling the plugs or maybe a piston ring is badly worn or damaged
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I replaced the guides previous to head gasket. My plugs were all looked normal except #2 seemed a little darker than usual. I'll tighten them down to 55-60 ft lbs. and see what that yeilds.
 
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