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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey guys, i have a 92 lude with an h22a4 that slung the third rod. i have an h23a1 full engine as well, but the head is bad. i am thinking of doing the h23vtec build. i have been all up in the resources folder on this build for days now. it seems the gains are ok, but how reliable is the engine?

my reasoning behind this build is basically that i have all the parts and i can't find an h22a block. there is one on ebay, but good luck outbidding everyone else, right!

i would like some info from folks that have done this. things like "it's a good/bad idea", "make sure you do ...." kinda stuff. as far as the technical stuff goes, the h23vtec sticky is great.

I did notice that everyone likes the type s pistons for the cr. would the stock h23 internals not work at all? i know all the down sides to the rev limit with the h23 internals. is there another reason for why they won't work?

any help and suggestions on this would be greatly appriciated! also i'm still willing to go back with the h22a4 block if anyone has one spare they want to sell.

thanks all!

<a href="http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww336/rentennis/?action=view&current=engine.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww336/rentennis/engine.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

the engine pic didn't show, but you can click on the link above to take a look at it if you like.
 

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Fixed it for you:



(From what I understand, the motor can be reliable if made corectly. The h22 block has oil squirters and the H23 block does not. So, that is something you might want to look into if you want to rev as high as your h22 did. But then again, I dont think you will need to rev as high)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
cool... i'm gonna take it easy on this motor if i build it. i'm about one ticket away from losing my license! i just want to get this car running again. since i have the h23 block i figured why not right? will stock internals on the block hold up? i'm not looking to raise the cr way up like most i see putting in aftermarket performance stuff. basically i will do what i have to, but i'm not looking to put 5 or 6 hundred in a h23 block. if i'm gonna do that i'll go find a h22 block and slap it back in there.


ps thanks for fixin the pic!
 

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H23vtec's are no less reliable than any other motor you could build. Its all a matter how well it was built.

What yer is your OBD2 block? Depending on that you may be able to just swap blocks, because if you DO go H23vtec you will also need to be able to tune for it.

What I'm getting at...

92-96 OBD1 H23 and H22 blocks use a 50mm crank (main journals)
97 H22a4 blocks and some early 98 blocks aare open deck, but still use 50mm crank journals
98-01 H22a4 blocks are open deck and use 55mm crank journals

So if you a4 block is a 97 you can just swap blocks with the H23a1, granted you will be going from open deck to closed deck but thats no biggie. The only thing you will need to do there is use the correct head gasket.

Or option 2 if your existing block uses a 55mm main crank then you can find a 50mm H22a1 crank and drop that in the H23a1 block and swap all your a4 parts over.

HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
actually it is an h22a1 not an a4. so i can just drop my a1 crank into the h23 block? i'm guessing go with the oil sqirters and rods off the a1 as well?
 

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actually it is an h22a1 not an a4. so i can just drop my a1 crank into the h23 block? i'm guessing go with the oil sqirters and rods off the a1 as well?

Yes just strip the block down and switch everything over. Don't forget to take the little oil orfice plug out of the deck of the H23 block.
 

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what about the pistons? h23 or h22?
Well what I mean is that you can rebuild your H22 using the bare H23 block, since its the sme block (I'm talking stripped down bare block). Then of course you'd want to stay with the H22 pistons to keep it stock.

BUt if you are still wanting to do an H23 vtec then heres what you do...

H23 block (or for others an H22 block or whatever you have)
H23 crank and rods
H22 pistons

You cant do this without tuning tho. Its higher compression and has a greater stroke then your ecu is tuned for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for the info!!! i may do this. so what makes the larger displacement on the h23 if the blocks are the same?
 

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thanks for the info!!! i may do this. so what makes the larger displacement on the h23 if the blocks are the same?

The crankshaft has a longer stroke. The H23 has a 95 mm stroke while the H22 has a 90.7 This means that the piston travels further down the cylinder in the H23 to let more volume into the cylinder, hence the more displacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
cool... ok. well i'll see what i have to do to get another rod and go for that. i feel better about this now!
 

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H23vtec's are no less reliable than any other motor you could build. Its all a matter how well it was built.

What yer is your OBD2 block? Depending on that you may be able to just swap blocks, because if you DO go H23vtec you will also need to be able to tune for it.

What I'm getting at...

92-96 OBD1 H23 and H22 blocks use a 50mm crank (main journals)
97 H22a4 blocks and some early 98 blocks aare open deck, but still use 50mm crank journals
98-01 H22a4 blocks are open deck and use 55mm crank journals

So if you a4 block is a 97 you can just swap blocks with the H23a1, granted you will be going from open deck to closed deck but thats no biggie. The only thing you will need to do there is use the correct head gasket.

Or option 2 if your existing block uses a 55mm main crank then you can find a 50mm H22a1 crank and drop that in the H23a1 block and swap all your a4 parts over.

HTH.

And which may i ask is the correct HG for an H23a1 block with H22a head?
 

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Yeah i thought it was the H22 but i just want to be sure is all.

Yes, 92-96 H22 headgasket since the H23 block is closed deck.

If it were an open deck block then use a H22a4 97-01 headgasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
there seems to be some botches on the frm because the block has been setting so long. is there any way to clean this or should i just get a another block? just to note there are no vertical scratches what so ever in the frm. not even a lip at the top from piston ring ware like you would see in an iron sleeve.
 

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there seems to be some botches on the frm because the block has been setting so long. is there any way to clean this or should i just get a another block? just to note there are no vertical scratches what so ever in the frm. not even a lip at the top from piston ring ware like you would see in an iron sleeve.
Can you post pics?
 
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