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Billy, who would you have suggested me to use?
It wasn't a criticism of your choice. Simply a statement based on my experiences with Larry as well. Great work, but it does take time. :) Been to his shop many times, and always enjoyed talking to him.
 

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Discussion Starter #504
It wasn't a criticism of your choice. Simply a statement based on my experiences with Larry as well. Great work, but it does take time. :) Been to his shop many times, and always enjoyed talking to him.
My apologies if that came off as sharp, as it was not intended that way; it was a seroous question as you yave a flavour for superior parts and work and i was curious who you would recomend for that particular job. I onow youve had Endynn do work for you previously, so i was curious who else you might recomend.


Josh told me a number of months back that they have a contract for a racing series where they have to do ALL the cylinder heads for every car that races and they get themm in batches of 300 heads per shot, so it understandable that lil ole me gets put aside until tue big boys playyoys are done, and i was cool with that.

It amazed me that other "big name" guys like portflow nd fourpiston and AMS among others wouldnt/couldnt do the v6 heads,
 

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a lot of those guys are so slammed with work they don't need anymore or it wouldn't be smart for them to take the time to design a port for something new when they are already filled to the brim with work.
 

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Yes, tis true, althougj i doubt they are as busy as endyn, ultimetly if companies want to make money they should be willing/able to take on such work. In the end thier loss is Larry's gain.
 

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Sometimes I think Larry tends to exaggerate... Just sayin'

Lots of controversy over the years about him and Endyn. Looks like there's more with the S2k crowd. All I know is that the engine that Larry rebuilt for me (with all OEM parts) made 216 WHP on my track car, so I was satisfied with that. All my experiences have been positive.

Not sure who I'd use for headwork on a V6. I know nothing about them. Not a fan of Golden Eagle, personally, but they seem to have done a good job for you.

I do like the engine geometry and OEM roller rockers on the V6. I am jelly of that. :p
 

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Sometimes I think Larry tends to exaggerate... Just sayin'

Lots of controversy over the years about him and Endyn. Looks like there's more with the S2k crowd. All I know is that the engine that Larry rebuilt for me (with all OEM parts) made 216 WHP on my track car, so I was satisfied with that. All my experiences have been positive.

Not sure who I'd use for headwork on a V6. I know nothing about them. Not a fan of Golden Eagle, personally, but they seem to have done a good job for you.

I do like the engine geometry and OEM roller rockers on the V6. I am jelly of that. :p
Yes, ive read about much controversy with endym, however, ive read about much more succcess with endynn than i have problems and issues with their work and or equiptment/parts. The biggest drawback that ive read about was in regards to their now defunct Rollerwave piston design. Although in 2009 i bought a set of b series rollerwave pistons for a close freind for his birthday, he has yet to rebuild his boosty setup, but when he does he will use those piston on the next go round, so it will be interesting to see if his setup makes or loses power with all things equal outside of the pistons.

I chose GE as they (john specifically) were the only ones who have built boosted j series motors with great success. Being that Pauter rods, Arias pistons, acl bearings were used, the only thing GE outside.of assembly was the deck reinforcement, the sleeves are a GE specification Darton sleeve(similar to the Benson way)
. All in all, i could have gotten a different builder but none wanted to do the honda v6 as they didmt have the tooling setup and few had any experience with the J motors.

HFPD could have built me a motor, but they wanted almost 30grand, and i would have had to provide a race class certification as well an official approval sheet. Which i dont and wont have, so they were out. I can say that this build will be interesting to see how it all plays out!
 

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Thanks Billy, i too am excited for the results
 

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Longitudinal J in a Prelude? I'm excited to see how you do it, but personally, with your power goals, I'd use a diff from a beefier drive-train than the S2K.

Have you considered just throwing the J in the trunk? I feel like the engineering and welding work needed to move a transverse engine to the rear wheels might be easier than (or roughly the same as) turning a transverse engine/tranny 90 degrees and getting it to mate reliably with a rear diff. With a mid-rear configuration you'd have less drive-train losses, less parts, less rotating mass, and you'd have the weight over the powered wheels, which is generally desirable.

Here's a few cool threads on similar projects:

http://honda-tech.com/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/gemini-project-mid-engine-rwd-h22-turbo-del-sol-1266033/

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19-projects-diy-article-talk/66688-94-gsr-mid-engine-rwd-h22a4-conversion.html
 

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Hmmm, that is definetly something to think about. I have often been backand forth about this rwd conversion, so who really know.

I have made some gain and some losses over late with this car. I went ot get it tuned on the Ifinify 6 and ran into some issue with cam signal at higher rpm. Being there are many variables that come into play with this particular tuning interface, I have come to the conclusion that to repair the issue, I need to absolve every aspect of variable.

The J32A2 auto engines come with a cam position and crank position sensor set up using Variable Reluctance sensors, these sensors are impeded by many thing, electrical/magnetic interference, pick up position and shim distance, sensory sensitivity as well as pick up shape, contour and design. The first issue I was having was crank position signal interference, so I rewired the crank position signal with shelided wires, separated from both the engine harness and chassis harness. This worked, and we were able to get the car tuned up to 4700rpm. Then the cam signal would sharply drop off. I am unable to determine if this is a sensor issue, a pickup shape or position issue, or if it is a signal interference issue. So, after much thought and poking around, I have decied that to correct this issue as well as increase both reliability and tune ability, I am going to convert this j32 auto engine over to HALL Effect sensors.

To do this I will have to purchase both the cam and crank position sensors formt eh 2003 acura cl-s. I will also purchase the cam plate of which the cam sensor attaches to. Also, in order for the hall effect sensors to work I will need to also replace the crankshalft timing cog.

The two timing cogs, form the auto engine and the manual 03 cls engine are different. The auto engine uses a 12/4 pickup (12 tooth crank position signal and 4 count cam pickup signal) where as the CLS manual use a 24 tooth crank signal and a single cam pick up.

By switching this motor over to hall effect sensing, and switching the crank sensor pickup to the 24 tooth, I will be increasing the resolution of the crank signal as well as eliminating altogether the risk of both interference and inaccuracy that the VR sensors have. Being that the Infinity 6 unit requires very clean signal due to its inherent succeptability to interference, the Hall effect square wave will resolve any of the current issues I have.

So, I will be wiring both the crank and cam signals into their own separate subharness and having them feed the Infinity unit directly. This way, I can keep the engine harness as is and not have to worry about modifications on that end. This will then allow that harness to be used with stock pcm with the vr sensors if ever needed and or be used on the I6 unit.

So, in conclusion, the issues I have had with tuning should be resolved as soon as I get back to the shop (currently in Manitoba drilling an oil well) and can get the parts sourced out.


All in all things have slowed a bit due to trying to get this car dyno tuned. But once the management system is setup and the engine runs well on the I6 unit then I wll be removing the whole setup and deciding on how to go about the RWD conversion. Myabe it will be MR setup or maybe FR, undecided yet.

In other news, I finally got the flow sheet back form Larry at Endynn in regards to my two j32a2 cylinder heads. Ill post some pictures of getting the car tuned as wella s the flow sheets, as we all love pictures!

Also, I finally got around to installing the s2k pedal set(well, not the whole pedals just the cover plates as they fit the prelude perfectly lol) ive had for five years or more. Pics will be below. I used a drill to drill out the the holes for the new pedalc overs, then riveted the s2k covers on. The gas pedal, well I removed the prelude gas pedal, then used a grinding disc to remove the old pedal, then welded the new s2k gas pedal onto the prelude pedal pole. All in all im pretty happy about it, and realised that our TL-S has the same pedal set as the S2K. That was pretty cool, as I also had a crashed civic si 2008 come into the shop for the engine removal and it turns out those pedals are also the same, well minus the gas pedal as it is drive by wire so slightly different, but the brake and lcutch pedal covers are the same, so I just cut the pedals off as the si was going to the crusher anyway.

Heres the prelude getting a wash and wax job!




all washed up waxed and re marked




Heres the post install of the pedal. Tellyou what, this was a super shitty job, as my six foot six, two hundred and sixty pound ass could barely fit under the dash with the equiptment needed. Defiently recommend getting a hot chic to do this install rather than do it yourself. Then you sit back and watch the show!!


Heres a couple screenshots of the tuning on the AEM Infinity Tuner.




Now, here is what is interesting. After having some issues trying to get this setup and tuned with another Tuner, a few failed remote tunes, I decided that I would start form scratch and get the setup done my self. Ive been learnig hwo to tune for some time and have familiarized my self with the infinity tuner, so I wen throught getting the original setup all qued intot he I6 unit. I had to set the wideband 02 calibration as well as sync the ignition timing in the i6 to the motor. After all that was setup, I kindlyt ask Jason Wadsworth from CNC speedshop to come and driect the rest. He was able to get the car tuned up to 4700 rpm on the dyno before we had the cam signal fall flat on its face. Sicne then I have been coming up with a solution as stated above in this regard.

I cannot express how awesome Jason was during this remote tune. He was more than willing to walk me through man aspects of tuning as well as show me some really nifty features of the infinity unit. Im very happy with my selection of the INifnty 6 unit for my car and am excited to get the aforementioned resolution in place and get this car tuned!!

Heres the flow sheet form Endynn.



Now that I have the flow sheet, I will begin working on sizing a turbo out for the forced induction stage of this build. I had contemplated using a borg warner EFR with external wastegate and divided manifold. Howerver, im gonna drop this link here and let your imaginiation guess what im gonna do.

http://www.aeristech.co.uk/full-electric-turbocharger-technology
 

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Update:

Over the last couple months I have been quite busy and havnt really touched the prelude at all. I did however receive some kidna dissapoitning news from Aeristech. I was really hoping to secure an Aeristech Electric turbo charger. however after discussing with the engineer in England, I have decided t pass on the the electric turbo. Reason being is that Aeristech cannot garuntee that the turbo will last and work well, as they are in the middle of doing field testig with the units. They were willing, with approval from the suits, to send me a turbo for testing as long as they had access to all data. Being that they do not have very much field data, and cannot garuntee the success of these untis, ive decieded that the best route for me to go would be with something that is known and proven.

So I bought a Borg Warner EFR 8374 1.05a/r externally wastegated, divided manifold turbo, with the speed sensor as well as all the required flanging and the install kit. Its sitting in Edmonton right now at Alamo Turbo, so when I get days off I will go pick pu the unit and post some pictures of it.

In other news as well, I couldn't part with my Mugen fron Aero kit, I badly wanted to purchase tire machines before last fall for the shop however, that didn't happen, so I decided that I would keep the aro kit, and just work harder and buy the tire machines with cash. So, last week Tessa and I drove down to Calgary (I snuck away form work for a day and half) and went to direct shops and purchased and pair of ATLAS tire machinrs. We chose the TC289 Tire Mounter, and the WB41 tire balancer. These amchiens are not the highest end of machiens, but apparently the manufacturer of Atlas also makes Corgi, so ultimetly I beelive these machies will work just fine for the volume I expect and most defiantly will work well to mount my own tires and save me some money. Up here, its hard to find a place to mount a 40 to a 17" rim, so at the very least I will save money on my own shit.

Anyway, heres a couple pictures. Loading the equptment in the truck as well as the next day after we unloaded the truck, assembled the machines and placed them in the shop .

No better way to celebrate the romantic valetines day than building shop equiptment with your spouse after breakfast lol .





Im stillw aiting for the cam and cranks parts to show up, I didn't order them until I knew I would be home, around the end of February, so hopefully by the time I go to work next I should have some progress on that end to share.

Until then...
 

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So, i got some day off, had a great time, was able to go and collect, likely the coolest part of my whole build....







I have a box of.flanges and other small parts, clamps, and the speed sensor, but i didnt take pictures of those. Anyway, i still need to drill out the housing in the turbo so that ican install the speed sensor, as well as i have to find a plug for thebspeed sensor as it came with a three pin plug but only one side of it.
 

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Here are a couple more pictures, I had to drill out the pilot hole ont he compressor housing to fit the turbine rotor speed sensor, so the other night I removed the vband on the housing and proceeded to drill the 1/4" hole. Blowing the housing out with compressed air after drilling and deburring the hole. The speed sensor slips right in and looks good. Here are some pics of it, as well as the rest of the hardware that I ordered with the turbo, it includes 2 v band clamps and flanges, the t4 divided flange, the gaskets, and the EFR install kit, as well as the speed sensor.









I still need to get the CKP CPS sensors and harness' and bits so that I can tune the car full range rpm on the infinity six. I kinda bought the turbo when maybe I shouldn't have, all things considered, but oh well, the sensors are cheap in comparison so ill try pick those up in a week or so. Spring is around the corner so im hoping to get a few thigns squared away on my car, the tuning first and foremost, the mount correction, then a new driver side outer, and the finally, I might install a stereo of sorts, right now, when I rewqired the dash for the jswap and s2k cluster, I didn't run wiring for a stereo, I figured I could do that later and have a dedicated harness for everything stereo related.

Also, I will have to purchase some flanges for the jseries intake manifold so that we can fabricate a air to water intercooler, that is built into the intake manifold and plumbed to a secondary radiator for cooling. I have the pump, the lines, and the exchanger unit, so now, I only need the flanges and some sheet aluminium and a couple -AN fittings.

until next time!
 

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Awesome thread here. I had one question about the mounts...besides the modification to the engine bracket, does everything else simply bolt in?

Thanks.
 

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Yes, the mounts bolt in, however, you will not be pleased with the location of the engine using these mounts. The angle of the axels is a little more than one would prefer. Actually, the angle is so much that under hard launches, and extreme cornering, ive had the axle cage literally explode and leave ball bearings all over the road. I received a free axle outer because of it, but am still concerned with the axel angle.

The only solution to this is to modify the mounts and pull theengine back towards the firewall a little bit, about 2 inches or thereabout. In order to do this you will need to modify your rear subframe, cutting out the area to make room for the transmission clearance, then box it back in for integrity.

There is a gentleman on this very site, with a Jswaped bb6, and he has already modified his mounts to correct the axle angle. David Polo......Ive seen his pictures of his mounts and they are pretty great. I will be doing the same with my lude this summer to make sure I get a full season of driving it this year.

Im glad you like the thread and am happy to assist a fellow luder with their jswap! Good luck man!
 
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