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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well my damn noisey valves won't go away. Despite numerous valve adjustments it still sounds like a fuxking typewriter going down the road. I found a fresh rebuilt by a reputable shop h23 head complete. I'm picking it up next friday. Anyway I have some down time in shop class and I gonna do the head swap. I just want to make sure everything is good and I won't have to open the engine any time soon. My block/old head were bought from tigerjapanese quoted at 40-60k. It runs great and gets good gas milage but it's noisey as hell.
Things I'm going to replace:
H23 Cylinder Head * Fresh Rebuild - Bought! Pics up soon..
OEM Honda Timing Belt - ordered
OEM Honda H23 Head Gasket -ordered
Oil change of course - bought
Fresh Plugs
50/50 Coolant and Flush - bought
IM Gasket - Hondata
Main Relay ( I need it)
Misc Bolts I'm missing
I found everything fairly cheap from members and at magestichonda.com (around $350 for everything) . I was just wondering if there's anything else I should replace while I'm in there. Or if anyone can get discount honda parts pm me.
 

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head studs
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are they needed?
 

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No, the oem headBOLTS can be reused time and time again. Headstuds can only be used 2-3 times and have to be torqued to different specs everytime (arp). Don't waste your money on them.

While you are at it though i would spray carb cleaner in your IM then pressure wash it to get any blow by that has built up in there. It will help with making your car feel brand new :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good info thanks Prudz
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not going to break into the block unless I have too. Doesn't use/burn/drip a drop of oil so there's no use.
 

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you will need a new im gasket yes.....
you could try to get a thinner header gasket to raise the compression a little bit
might get you a couple horsepower
 

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well here is the thing - "unless u have too" it cuold cost you another headgasket and takin head out 1more time if rings will go out. I just told "i would" because this way you can be sure that ur rings are new.... they dont really cost much and there is another 1.5hr(?) job once head already pulled. But anyway im not tellin that you MUST change 'em... just my opinion.
 

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head bolts are torque to yield bolts. they stretch when they are tightened. (if they are re-used it may not seal the headgasket properly) unless you are the original owner you never know if they've been taken off and re-used before. they're not that expensive to replace. if you're going to do it, do it right the first time. you can get the head bolts at any autoparts store, but if you get ARP studs you'll never have to replace them again.

if you know theyve never been off, you're probably fine using them again. otherwise, dont risk it. they're really not that expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I put a IM gasket on the list thanks Ray. Also with a thinner hg if there one that wouldn't mess with the CR too much. I run 91-92oct depending if im home or in Sioux. I wouldn't mind a few extra pony's but nothing crazy. I'll probably stick with the OEM HG. I was thinking after rebuild, if everything runs and is mechanically how it should be, might throw a little spray the Ludes way but idk.
Anything else you guys can think off besides rings and head bolts... I just don't see the need...
 

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that is a thinner head gasket, sounds like a decent mod for an all motor setup though.
 

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yes that head gasket dh-racing has is the type im talking about
but im not sure if a h22 gasket will fit ur h23??????

seach around they are out there
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
They got one for the 2.3 so I'm good.
 

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If your doing a IM gasket go with a hondata.
or a bisimoto(slightly cheaper). I think they're around 40something shipped?

ALso...to whoever mention about the stock head bolts being usable time and time again...that is false. They stretch as much as an 19 year old does at an orgy. They can really only be used about 3 times before it becomes a serious risk. I know because I've done it. You can tell how much the threads have stretched after 3 times without even TRYING too look at them, it' just that noticable.

ARP recommends torquing them tighter than the previous time ONLY when you are retorquing the same head/hg. You can torque them to the same spec if you put them on a new hg.

To the OP, you don't NEED ARP hardware unless you're putting down some serious power that might lift the head off the block.

I'd save some money on buying a new main relay and buy a 20watt RadioShack soldering iron and resolder your current main relay. It takes a total of 30 seconds(it takes longer for the iron to warm up) and it's much cheaper.

Also might want to add some new coolant to the list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My main relay and bolts are dirt cheap from a member. I tried soldering the current one but failed miserably... I'll just get a newer one...
As for the head bolts I will be using the oem bolts again unless I run in to something.
 
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