Honda Prelude Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have the stock H22a4 from my 99 and I'm deciding to build it. My hp goals are going to be mid 550. The block will be resleeved but I'm wondering what parts will get me to my goals. I'm seeing lots of help for lower hp goals but when it seems to get past 500 there isnt so much-needed much help.

So far golden eagle sleeves which will be sent out for them to do it is all I have but I still need pistons and rods that need to be shipped out to them for it to be honed and bored apparently.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
6,802 Posts
Read build threads, speak with your tuner/builder. There are many h series owners with that power and beyond.

There is no magical setup. Assuming you are going forced induction since you posted this in that section, and seeing as you don't have any ideas besides sleeves, you have a lot of research ahead of you


Best of luck, start a build thread and keep us updated with your progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate the feed back and I'll start a build thread and yes it will be a build set for turboing. Maybe you can answer this real quick for me should I have a set of pistons selected before I send the motor out so I can get the bore and hone done while it's being resleeved or can I just get it done later on when I actually have the pistons in hand because GE won't bore or hone without sending them in, or so it says on their website.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
6,802 Posts
I would have a set of pistons and rods selected ahead of time. That way you know for certain what will be in the block and have no future issues with height or bore size
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've been eye balling these and I'm hearing good thing about them, would you have any rods in mind? I'm going to be using the stock crankshaft polished up. I just want something that'll hold up to the power that I'm trying bring to the table.


ARIAS 87.5MM 3.445 Bore Low Compression(dish top)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
6,802 Posts
I'm not familiar with those.


Eagle, pauter, carillo, manley are a few commonly used rods
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm gonna go with pauter rods, did a read on em and few others on here are using them some good things about them. Are those mid wet the ones that convert it to closed deck?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Took a look on break today and decided to the darton route. So far it's
MID sleeves
Pauter rods
And cp 9 1 pistons.
Is there a big difference between the stock 87mm and an 87.50 for pistons?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Is there a big difference between the stock 87mm and an 87.50 for pistons?
It all depends what you do. i prefer less weight and that's better in high reving motors. but when you go bigger your adding volume aka displacement, so you will be able to cram more air inside the combustion chamber.
Displacement = bore(to the 2nd) X 0.7854 X stroke X number of cylinders
with 87mm 2157cc
with 87.5 mm 2182cc
with 88mm 2207cc

Take into consideration what your car is mostly for. Daily driver or more of an aggressive street car. I have a 91 CB7 that i can swap my oe ecu and take off my forced induction and pass smog no problem and puts down 387 with all stander sized parts(able to boost high due to low compression of the f22) yeah everything internally is aftermarket darton dry sleeves with flange, Skunk2 rods and OE spec forged arias pistons and full Alpha skunk2 valve set and a snail to cram more air in. Since its my daily yeah i can boost higher but i made this a reliable street car. has seen 3 years and 115,000 miles on it. and just passed smog last month. you don't have to go crazy to put some numbers down you just have to do it right.

As for my prelude i will be doing the same, building a reliable motor and cramming some air into. with a 10:1 compression ratio i will be using a 14b turbo to help release some more ponies. I see many people run around 10 lbs of boost on stock motor yeah it handles it but for how long.

write out your game plan and see how much you can spend that's what mostly factors what you could do. and how fast. I started my block 3 months once you know your game plan you can find deals i found new blox vale set for cheap just because enthusiast wasn't able to afford to keep building.

My example
Darton(300-018) has my block right now and charged me 828.00
Rods Skunk2 332.00
pistons JE166036 557.00
springs supertech kit 260.00
valves Blox 160.00
Misc gaskets,bearings, seals, turbo, piping, injectors, fuel pump etc.... 1400.00

Things start to add up quick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll just keep with the 87mm then
. Once this thing is done it's only coming out every other weekend. Its definetley not going to be my dd. I'm not too worried about how much everything is going to be plus it's hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new car with less power, kind of jumped into this knowing I'm going to be spending a lot I mean just the pistons and rods is over 1400 and darton mid sleeves are 700 bucks alone and just guessing since I got a quote from GE and they wanted 1600 just for a resleeve I'm thinking darton probably wants close to it as well. So far I'm trying to get this bottom end finished with, move onto the top end and get an intake mani from rosko then work on what the actual turbo set up is going to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,025 Posts
Dry sleeves will do fine. I'm having dry sleeves in my open deck block. Just grinding out alot of the frm material. Whole £1000 cheaper over here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Would going with an 88mm be worth the extra displacement and get my gains close to 600? Motors already open so might as well go with a size bigger in bore right?
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top