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Hey everyone im really stuck on the block. My girlfriend bought me a drag turbo kit for a starter on my 94 h22a1 lude. I want to run 10psi on the street and 12 at the track. Im stuck on the sleeves. Is my stock sleeves going to be able to handle 12 psi? I tryede searching and couldn't find the right answer. I was goign to just buy eagle rods and cp 9:1 comp pistons. I read somewhere that i cant run forged pistons because of the sleeves. Can someone please help me out?
 

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I dont think you have searched well enough.
I highly doubt CRM Walls will handle that much abuse.
Say bye bye to your rings.
 

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what do you mean? I dont have the money to sleeve the block.
Then dont go thru with ur build...
Please bro. Focus on reliability. Is this ur dd. If not, then relax and take ur time doing the build. I sugest reading. I hurd cp pistons can be mounted on stock engine with no sleeves. I may be wrong. I may be write.
 

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Can we see pics of the turbo kit?
Size and trim and stuff like that?
 

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The pistons are the weak link (more specifically the ringlands) in the H22. In order to replace them (the exception being the Mahle Gold's) you need to re-sleeve. You can probably get away with low boost on a good tune (i.e. no more than 10PSI on that kit) but how long your motor will last, well your guess is as good as mine...
 

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I don't quite understand what you think you will gain by doing rods (without pistons it's kind of a waste of money IMO) since they aren't going to protect you from anything.

Sleeving varies by the machine shop doing it. You can spend $3500 for a fully built sleeved block from someone like Anthony at AV-Engineering or spend ~$600-$800 on a simple sleeving job with stock internals at your local machinist. Realistically you should do sleeves pistons and rods all together but there are obviously budget constraints. I would take that money you plan on using for rods and make sure you get a good tune and put it into your management (fuel) rather than rods that aren't going to prevent your ringlands from failing.
 

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Man how many times can this topic come up in one week. God lord. 10psi can be had. What size is your turbo? You could run 10psi and make 260whp wereas if I ran 10psi I would be around 350-360whp(guesstament).. I take it the RINGLANDS part didn't get to you yet. Ringlands, meaning your pistons. Rods won't do crap for you at this point. Not until you start gettin higher up into the power range. Once you tell us your turbo size or what exact kit(link) she got you then we can let you know. What tuning system are you using? What injectors are you using? What clutch are you using? As for the sleeves mine are gunna run around $1000+ (AEBS) darton, golden eagle run roughly around the same.Posted via Mobile
 

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Man how many times can this topic come up in one week. God lord. 10psi can be had. What size is your turbo? You could run 10psi and make 260whp wereas if I ran 10psi I would be around 350-360whp(guesstament).. I take it the RINGLANDS part didn't get to you yet. Ringlands, meaning your pistons. Rods won't do crap for you at this point. Not until you start gettin higher up into the power range. Once you tell us your turbo size or what exact kit(link) she got you then we can let you know. What tuning system are you using? What injectors are you using? What clutch are you using? As for the sleeves mine are gunna run around $1000+ (AEBS) darton, golden eagle run roughly around the same.Posted via Mobile

It's likely the drag Gen 4 kit, which usually has a Turbonetics T3/T04e hybrid 50AR 57 trim which is a little on the small side for a H22A but thats why he will likely be able to run it ~10PSI max...

The Drag Gen 4 kits don't come with new injectors or any kind of real engine management just a rising rate FMU (boost controlled) and a map sensor bypass valve. Which is why I recommended spending the money on rods on fuel management instead(plenty of options out there but I would go with S300 because of how many tuners out there support it unless your local tuner likes something else in that price range).

Non name-brand ductile iron sleeves around here are ~$600-$800 for straight/flanged sleeves when you buy into darton (flanged not MID) you will spend ~$1000 or more (for the name), MID's will be another couple hundred (usually ends up ~$1300-$1400) but check with your local machine shop as they are the only ones who will be able to give you any kind of real price.
 

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if you cant take hit on your wallet, dont even think about boosting.
 

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do a compression test on your engine first to see how healthy it is.

if it passes the tests, buy some injectors and throw the FMU away (not literally). Have the engine tuned by a professional. As long as you drive it like a normal person and only beat on it when you race (real racing), it will survive fine.

ie: dont boost all the damn time, no long 4th and 5th gear pulls. Get a FULL tune. Not just WOT dyno tuning. And i would not suggest running crome.
 

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do a compression test on your engine first to see how healthy it is.

if it passes the tests, buy some injectors and throw the FMU away (not literally). Have the engine tuned by a professional. As long as you drive it like a normal person and only beat on it when you race (real racing), it will survive fine.

ie: dont boost all the damn time, no long 4th and 5th gear pulls. Get a FULL tune. Not just WOT dyno tuning. And i would not suggest running crome.
U make me hait u! Seriously!:inlove:
 

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Blake explain "FULL" tune please? I'm confused. DetailPosted via Mobile
 

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Blake explain "FULL" tune please? I'm confused. DetailPosted via Mobile

FULL tuning is when you tune the complete engine management system to your car. Not just WOT.

idle, idle compensations
part throttle
IAT and ECT fuel compensations and all related fuel compensations

you know...the part of tuning that actually takes skill
 

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do a compression test on your engine first to see how healthy it is.

if it passes the tests, buy some injectors and throw the FMU away (not literally). Have the engine tuned by a professional. As long as you drive it like a normal person and only beat on it when you race (real racing), it will survive fine.

ie: dont boost all the damn time, no long 4th and 5th gear pulls. Get a FULL tune. Not just WOT dyno tuning. And i would not suggest running crome.

Amen
 
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