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Discussion Starter #1
So I stumbled across these when I was behind my stereo today and I couldn't see anywhere they would plug into on my stock deck. Do any of you know what they are for?



 

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So I stumbled across these when I was behind my stereo today and I couldn't see anywhere they would plug into on my stock deck. Do any of you know what they are for?



The Red and white cables are RCA cable to plug into an amp. The blue wire is a Amp remote cable to turn the amp on when the stereo is on. They plug into an aftermarket amp. Follow the wires and see what they plug into. If an amp isnt there at the end remove them.
 

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The Red and white cables are RCA cable to plug into an amp. The blue wire is a Amp remote cable to turn the amp on when the stereo is on. They plug into an aftermarket amp. Follow the wires and see what they plug into. If an amp isnt there at the end remove them.
correct, but i wouldn't remove them. personally i'd leave them in there if you don't already have/plan getting a system one day. Pre-wired for a system i guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just followed them back to where they disappear under the back seat. Need to find a way to pull that up. Why did I have to discover this on a day when it is snowing?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The ends are stuffed into the crack between the upper and lower rear seat along with what look like 4 gauge power wires. I didn't bother tracing the power wires back because I don't have time tonight, but should I keep them or upgrade if I decide to put a system in?. There are also 2 slits in the seat-back fabric so I guess the last owner had a sub hooked up.
 

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if its a 4 gage wire. keep it, that what you should use with a decent set up.

no point in taking it out then putting it back in when you get your system.
 

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Yeah congrats, your car came pre wired. Meaning someone else had a system in it at some point. I had to spend $80 bucks to have someone do that for me.

(I could have done it myself, I'm just lazy and hate running power wire through the length of my car and $80 was worth two hours of my time.)
 

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Well I like saving money so this works for me. Only problem is that I know next to nothing about audio and putting items together to make a system that works together. I would want something well rounded, any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have the Alpine CDA 9885. I want to fill whatever inherent holes there are in the stock system to further enhance my overall listening enjoyment for all music types.
How was that for a politically correct statement? lol

I listen to all types of music; rock, country, electronica, metal, hip-hop. I just want to take advantage of what I have here to make sound quality better over-all.
 

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Your best bet starting out is to go listen to stuff. If you like the way someone's setup sounds, ask a few questions about thier speakers and amp.

Are you looking to just add a subwoofer? Or do you want a full system? The wiring you have looks to accomadate a subwoofer. Do you already have an aftermarket deck or are you using the stock head unit?

Your first upgrade is probably going to be a head unit if you don't have one already. That's pretty much the brain of your system, so think about future upgrades there as well. I'm not saying drop $$$$ on a DVD/NAV/Satelite sytem... unless of course thats what you want. You can get a pretty decent source unit for well under $300.

Car audio systems generally fall into two categories, Sound quality and SPL. Basically sounds good vs. Loud as all hell. That middle ground you're looking for may be the most difficult formula in car audio to come up with. SPL is pretty easy to judge... Grab a dB meter and see who's got the biggest number. Sound quality is largley subjective.

Go out there and listen to what diffrent stuff sounds like. Go to a car audio show if there's one near you (it's kinda the off season right now). Next time you hear someone pull up with a system, ask a few questions. All the info you're going to get is probably a bit biased, but figure out what you like and go from there.

If you're looking for an inexpensive company to go with for starting out, memphis makes some pretty good stuff, and theres a memphis dealer or two lurking in this forum that can hook you up. I started with two secondhand memphis 12"s, and worked from there. I got my first set of rockford fosgate component speakers, and then I got curious about thier subs, low and behold my car is now filled with rockford fosgate stuff. Now I'm looking into upgrades for myself...

Car audio is a money pit. I'll tell you that much. If you do it yourself, you'll learn a hell of a lot, but you will pay to play. I've probably blown up $1000 in gear over the three or four years I've been playing this game. A reputable shop can save you some money there, but to be honest, I wouldn't have done it any other way.

But go listen to some subs and speakers. Questions to ask would be the brand of sub and amp, how many watts RMS?

But if you don't have a head unit, start there. and ask questions.
 

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Wow, you're quick with that reply. lol, while i was editing my novel...

Ok, so you've got a source unit. next thing is up to you. You can either build a front stage or add some boom.

As far as a front stage goes, that basically means front speakers. You've got several paths here. I'll start with the cheapest option and work my way up.

1. Drop in Coaxial/three-way speakers. ~$60 Decent, will run off head unit power. not really the stuff dreams are made of but if you've got a blown stock speaker... not a bad idea. You're not gonna get a ton of volume out of them, but they'll do fine.

2. Basic set of component speakers ~$100 This is the way I started with a front stage, My first rockford fosgate P152s components in my 525i. Decently loud, Will support a few watts so you can choose to amplifiy them if you want, not totally required as a decent four channel will set you back about 250 if you DIY. probably around 3-400 from a shop. To be honest, I'd trash option one and start here. You'd want something probably in the 50-75w RMS range to be usable off head unit power.

3. Badass component speakers. ~alot This is kinda starting at the end. In the middle of the road here you can pick up a set of off the shelf components in this category for between $150-$300. Probably looking at about 100w-150w rms in that category and they WILL be loud. On the other hand, You could go with one of the smaller vendors that produce insane speakers like CDT or Hybrid or... well... yeah you're spending alot of money there. But Looking more like 200-220w RMS. Plus your amp just started costing more.

Note I really didn't direct you towards a specific brand there? Theres a reason. Go listen to them and decide for yourself what you like.

As for subs...

LOTS of decisions there. Sealed vs Ported enclosure, What amp, what sub, so many combos....

A subwoofer amp is something to spend some $$$ on, I'd estimate between $300 and $1000 at a shop.

If you're looking for Sound Quality, generally you build a sealed box.

If you're looking for SPL, generally you build a ported box.

As far as entry level gear goes, memphis makes some good stuff.

We can help you with whatever way you wanna go, but to avoid writing a novel here... Let me know what you want to add first. And maybe what you'd like to spend?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm not interested in blowing my ears out, I'm a pilot in the military and that doesn't sound like a good career move.

I guess I want some components for the front, and some sort of sub in the back.

When it comes to subs, how does size come into play? will an 8in be crisper than a 12? will a 12 hit lower lows? I don't want my car to rattle at stop lights.

I noticed that you didn't mention the rear speakers. Some posts in other threads seam to indicate that people prefer to focus on fronts and subs instead, what is your take on them?

When picking out speakers, subs, and amps; do you need to match up the RMS rating perfectly or is there a little room to play around with?
 

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Comments n such interspersed.

I'm not interested in blowing my ears out, I'm a pilot in the military and that doesn't sound like a good career move.

I guess I want some components for the front, and some sort of sub in the back.

That's generally how it works. :headbang:

When it comes to subs, how does size come into play? will an 8in be crisper than a 12? will a 12 hit lower lows? I don't want my car to rattle at stop lights.

Seems like you've got the concept. An 8 will generally require less power to move than a 12 because it is a smaller sub. They also generally have better response because the cone itself is lighter and easier to move. (assuming you're using a similar magnet on both subs)

As far as volume and frequency go, all other things equal, a 12 will be louder and move more air. How low your sub will hit depends mostly on the enclosure it's placed in.

As far as a rattle goes, when you hear it, find out where it is and tape/screw/sound deaden the panel/object down to the car. Not too hard.

I noticed that you didn't mention the rear speakers. Some posts in other threads seam to indicate that people prefer to focus on fronts and subs instead, what is your take on them?

Rear speakers are completley unnessacary. They're not a bad thing to have, but I just disconnected mine.

When picking out speakers, subs, and amps; do you need to match up the RMS rating perfectly or is there a little room to play around with

You've got a little room. Just make sure you don't let some marketing babble confuse Peak and RMS... very expensive mistakes are made that way.

I generally like to overpower my subs a wee bit. I'm comfortable breaking stuff though.

The other thing mathematically you need to consider when picking a sub/amp is the impedance you'll be running them at. I generally sugesst going with a dual voice coil subwoofer. They are a little more complicated to wire and cost a few dollars more, but it gives you many more options as far as what amplifiers you can use.
 

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Sorry I haven't been around in a while, I've been at my gf's place. I think when I get this project underway I'll be trying to line up the RMS and max #'s pretty close.

With sub enclosures, do people ever put 2 different sized subs in the same box? Would there be any advantages in this, like still getting the sharp punch of the 8 but also the deep lows from the 12, or would you end up with a muddy mixed sound?

For a Dual Voice Coil rated at say 300W RMS (Rockford Fosgate P3SD410), does that mean you need 2 300W inputs, or 1? Essentially, does the T600-2 power one or 2 of these subs?

I may be a while before I reply again after today because I am driving half way across the country tomorrow and I don't know how long I'll have to wait for internet to be hooked up when I get there. Please don't take my lack of reply as lack of interest.
 

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that would be 300 watts for both coils, normally it will say somethin like 150 watts per coil or something along those lines. Also rockford fosgate has there stuff under rated. My T1000 puts out 1624 at 1 ohm according to the birth sheet, when its supposed to be a 1000 at 1 ohm. I have a decently loud stereo that consists of Pioneer AVIC Z2, rockford T162S up front, two cheap pionner 6x9's and a 450.4 punch amp for those 4 speakers, and a T10001bd subwoofer amplifier and two T112D4 subs wired up to 1 ohm, very loud everything IMO. and there is an easy 4 grand there. I also started out like psud3ity, except worse a wal mart fast and furious "450.1" and two old rockford punch XLC's in a huge band pass box. haha those days. sorry if i rambled hopefully i helped a bit anyway!
 

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Sorry I haven't been around in a while, I've been at my gf's place. I think when I get this project underway I'll be trying to line up the RMS and max #'s pretty close.

With sub enclosures, do people ever put 2 different sized subs in the same box? Would there be any advantages in this, like still getting the sharp punch of the 8 but also the deep lows from the 12, or would you end up with a muddy mixed sound?

For a Dual Voice Coil rated at say 300W RMS (Rockford Fosgate P3SD410), does that mean you need 2 300W inputs, or 1? Essentially, does the T600-2 power one or 2 of these subs?

I may be a while before I reply again after today because I am driving half way across the country tomorrow and I don't know how long I'll have to wait for internet to be hooked up when I get there. Please don't take my lack of reply as lack of interest.
I'd stick with using the same size subs in a box. You will also want to have a divider between the two subs so each one has its own enclosure as well if you didn't already know that.

If you are wanting to use the full 300 watts RMS of each sub you will need an amp that is capable of 600 watts RMS to power them both. If you don't care about using the subs to their full potential you can use whatever amp you want and the subs will just play at whatever output the amp can give. If you haven't had a sub in your car before 300 watts RMS is A LOT of bass compared to the stock system. If you are not wanting to rattle or vibrate everything around you one 300w rms sub would be plenty.
 

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Sorry I haven't been around in a while, I've been at my gf's place. I think when I get this project underway I'll be trying to line up the RMS and max #'s pretty close.

With sub enclosures, do people ever put 2 different sized subs in the same box? Would there be any advantages in this, like still getting the sharp punch of the 8 but also the deep lows from the 12, or would you end up with a muddy mixed sound?

For a Dual Voice Coil rated at say 300W RMS (Rockford Fosgate P3SD410), does that mean you need 2 300W inputs, or 1? Essentially, does the T600-2 power one or 2 of these subs?

I may be a while before I reply again after today because I am driving half way across the country tomorrow and I don't know how long I'll have to wait for internet to be hooked up when I get there. Please don't take my lack of reply as lack of interest.
You don't want two diffrent sized subs in your car at all... much less the same box.

An 8 and a 10 will tend to interfere with eachother and hit at diffrent times, which will give you a very very "cloudy" and distorted sound.
 

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I'd stick with using the same size subs in a box. You will also want to have a divider between the two subs so each one has its own enclosure as well if you didn't already know that.
False.

You can gain 6dB by having two subs share the same airspace. There are no problems doing this as long as the subs are wired in phase with eachother.
 
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