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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Basic Turbo Setup Parts List​










  1. T-25 Turbo set at 6-7psi - (ebay) $120
  2. Short Tubular Manifold for T-25 w/optional intercooler setup -From Michael @ LSDMotorsports.com $340
  3. FMU 12:1 disk - $113 or you may want to Convert to OBD1 with a Chipped ECU and a Conversion Harness - Roughly $350 (parts) and about $150 p/h @ a Dyno Shop to Tune
  4. Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump - (ebay) $100
  5. Need check valves from pet store (3 valves) - (local store) $30
  6. Intercooler and charge piping – (your choice estimate) $200
  7. Blow-off valve – (ebay) $105
  8. Custom Downpipe - (estimate from local shop) $200
  9. Oil sandwhich adapter - (summitracing) $36.64
  10. Oil feed line - (ebay) $69.94
  11. Oil return line - (ebay or custom made) $50
  12. Autometer Boost Guage – (ebay) $33
  13. Silicone Couplers - (ebay) $100
  14. Depeding on you, you may want to invest into 450cc injectors to prevent leaning out your fuel supply. $100 (ebay)
Total: $1597.58 (parts only, labor will vary person to person)

As far as power increase on this setup I quote "Bobnova":

7psi non-intercooled with that setup and a Ludespeed manifold made 178whp.
Add an intercooler and 2psi (9psi intercooled) and it was 205whp or so.


Please keep in mind that the 3rd Gen Prelude is rated at 110hp at the wheels and 135hp at the crank.

I compiled what I have researched on Basic Turbo charging our 3rd Gen Preludes and this is what I found:

For everyone’s knowledge, this is an non-intercooled setup and will run efficiently with no problems according to Keith(testimonial from the LUDESPEED KIT).

All Keith did was retard his timing 4 degrees to stop any pining. "Retard your timing 4 degrees and watch the motor for the first 500 miles. You shouldn’t notice any pinging, unless you didn’t follow my steps. This kit will not hurt your engine, only you not taking the proper time and precautions to install it properly and care for you motor will.

Do not set your wastegate any higher than 8psi or you will have to change your fuel management. By the way setting your psi at 8 will be maxing out this setup.

I spoke with Michael at LSDMOTORSPORTS.com and I asked him what type of fuel management they were using for their kits. He said "FMU(Vortech or Blox) or AFC(Apexi), and he said you can use your stock injectors with an upgrade fuel pump".

So, I confirmed that anyone can turbo charge their 3rd Gens with stock injectors safely. But keep in mind that you will be limited to the 6-8psi range for your wastgate setting.

He also said that the other car with the AFC is using 450cc injectors and it is intercooled (FMIC).

I have checked these prices out for this setup, but FisherPrice used an DSM turbo setup off of a junked eclipse and was able to do it under a $1000.00. You may know someone who can help you get parts cheaper so the prices will vary.

I hope this helps alot of you people looking to turbo charge your car.;)

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No problem, I just wanted to help those newbies and those who were not sure of what to do.

I figured this would at least put everyone on the right track. I know that there is alot of confusion out there regarding turbo charging our cars and there are a lot of people who want boost, but don't want to due massive conversion just to do it.

I just wanted to show that it is very possible and doable. I would recommend getting a lowmilage JDM engine to start out with, but you can still use your current engine as well.




WGFletch said:
thanks for the info! hopefully ill be putting a turbo in sometime this summer...
 

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that setup is almost what i got...i almost have everything pieced together, except i am making my own manifold and using an front mount intercooler.

I still think it would be almost as cheap to go with uberdata... and you would get MUCH better reliability / tunability with it.

and if you plan on making any boost dependent timing adjustments, you will need to get a BTM on top of your FMU. another reason i went with uberdata. if you do a quick search you can find that an entire setup can be made relatively cheaply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What is a "BTM"??:???:

Lude4ever said:
that setup is almost what i got...i almost have everything pieced together, except i am making my own manifold and using an front mount intercooler.

I still think it would be almost as cheap to go with uberdata... and you would get MUCH better reliability / tunability with it.

and if you plan on making any boost dependent timing adjustments, you will need to get a BTM on top of your FMU. another reason i went with uberdata. if you do a quick search you can find that an entire setup can be made relatively cheaply.
 

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7psi non-intercooled with that setup and a Ludespeed manifold made 178whp.
Add an intercooler and 2psi (9psi intercooled) and it was 205whp or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is a nice shot of power to start with and then upgrade as needed. It is still a lot more power than the 135hp stock at the FlyWheel, which I believe was 110 at the wheels.

That LUDESPEED kit was a great kit for stock internals, obviously there are those who would want more power from the start, but if you don't have the time or money to rebuild the motor or change the ECU to match fuel needs, then this is the way to go.:wink:

http://ludicrous2_0.tripod.com/partlist/instlld1.jpg

Bobnova said:
7psi non-intercooled with that setup and a Ludespeed manifold made 178whp.
Add an intercooler and 2psi (9psi intercooled) and it was 205whp or so.
 

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However, with real engine management (uberdata($400), megasquirt($147), hondata($???) etc.) you would be a substantial amount more power, and be a lot safer.

Roughly speaking, that 200whp on 9psi turns into 220-240whp when properly tuned.
All of the above do spark as well as fuel, so you can redo the spark map for correct on and off boost advance (more on off-boost for power, and for quick spooling).



EDIT:
Note that S/V-AFC's are NOT included in the "real" engine management.
They are a (small) step above a rising rate FPR.
Fine for limited n/a tuning, but not really up to the task of fine tuning a boosted engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bobnova said:
However, with real engine management (uberdata($400), megasquirt($147), hondata($???) etc.) you would be a substantial amount more power, and be a lot safer.

I was looking at that Megasquirt I, for only $130.00 unassembled. Does anyone have this unit? According to the site, it is a tuner's dream because it is completely a DIY's tunable ECU.

For an Assembled one it is $210.00 I would like to hear the comments on this unit from anyone who has it and is using it?:)
 

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I've got one, i'm going an un-tried route with it (making it OBD0 compatible) and it gave me some trouble, but it works great now, i love it.

Get the V3 board, and V1 chip, then run the MSnS-e (Megasquirt-n-spark-extra) code, it has a TON of features in it.

The V2.2 board works fine, but the V3 has some signal conditioners in it that'll work nicely for a plug-in wiring job. If i'd gotten a V3 instead of 2.2 it would have been a lot easier :p
 

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just get crome and be done with it....its free software and the extra 300 bucks or less you spend on the chipped ecu and tuning is totally worth it. I would also reccomend a wideband a/f gauge, not some narrowband pos.

on 6psi i put down 179whp and 187wtq, intercooled, stock block.

as far as the pinging is concerned (detonation), you can't always hear it when it happens...so just putting in a fmu and pulling off some timing isn't exactly a tune. Do yourselves a favor- trust only a handfull of peeps on this board with turbo 3g's

b20luda
tonybaker12
fuzzygreen
jump
planemn01

there are others that i'm forgetting i apologize...

a second favor to yourself would be to get on honda-tech.com and READ READ READ READ READ and SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH

most of the guys on here are yahoo's who don't know about proper tuning much less how to advise others on how to tune a turbo 3g. Remember that if your actually turboing your 3g your one of a VERY small club and because of that your getting into an area where there is a lot of trial and error...most of all listen to what other people have done and learn from thier mistakes. Find out what worked and what didn't. If you think you can throw on an FMU and leave the rest of the fuel system stock, forget about it. it might work for a short time but you will be buying/building a new motor.

I spent MONTHS planning and a week installing my turbo kit. I spent a shit load on it and the tuning and my motor lasted 3.5 months. What happened to me was that with the colder weather, i ended up making an additional 1psi thanks to a super cold night..1psi that i wasn't tuned for....now its toast. You have to know that when you get into this, you WILL REBUILD YOUR MOTOR, NOT IF BUT WHEN...just know this going in.

Another good additon to your setup would be a good crankcase evacuation setup (catch-can)

If you guys have questions, i'd be happy to help you figure them out safely.


here's my setup:

stock block and head
dsm blacktop injectors
walbro 255
crome
chipped integra ecu
bkr7es plugs
msd 8.5mm wires
straight t3 42/48
Johnnyracecar front mount
custom intercooler piping from JCwhitney
silicone couplers
Blitz BoV
Tial 35mm wg
Ludespeed mani/dp
custom 2.5in exh.
no cat
new stock radiator
aftermarket fan
Action 2md clutch
rebuilt tranny
Battery in trunk
boost gauge
water temp gauge
oil pressure
oil feed lines
oil drain line
bung to put on oil pan for drain
bung for w/b o2
plx m-300 w/b 02 sensor
golden eagle sandwich adapter (oil feed)


in addition to all that stuff there's a ton of otherstuff to consider such as:
chop saw with blade to cut intercooler pipes
welding equipment or friend or local muffler shop to weld IC pipes and oil drain
extra wrenches and bits and misc tools, these add up on cost
dremmel tool with lots of bits and cutting tools
sawzall and blades
safty equipment (safty goggles ear plugs)
extra transportation for when your car is down
towing to tuning shop
misc cleaners solvants (CRC etc)
shop towles
gloves
etc
etc
etc

This is by no means an easy undertaking however if you take your time and PLAN PLAN PLAN it can be done successfully....

AFTER ALL OF THAT...
I am rebuilding my motor as we speak...
Rods-Pistons-Rings-Locks ~1200
Machinework including botton end assembly ~800
Bearings ~150
T-belt w/p head gasket/oil pump ~225 (real rough guess)
belts hoses ~50
oil changes for break in ~60
tune 150
retune 100

more pics...



 

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1funryd said:
I have checked these prices out for this setup, but FisherPrice used an DSM turbo setup off of a junked eclipse and was able to do it under a $1000.00. You may know someone who can help you get parts cheaper so the prices will vary.
I'm sorry for nitpicking but you've off a decimal point, fisher_price turboed for under $100.00

...I, however, do not condone going cheap on a turbo project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I understand everything you are saying Rick. I do respect the advice of you and all the others who have done this already.

I am just trying to sort some things out and see what route I will take. Hondaprelude88's setup is what I am looking at, and he has been running for 4 years now.:-?

I by no means, am trying to ignore your advice or all the other guys who have been Turbo charged for sometime now. I just feel that my goals are smaller than everyone elses in comparison.:|

I feel I can do it with the same setup for now, but with room to improve upon.

Thanks though for your info, it does give me a lot to think about before I decide to start the install. I do appreciate your emphasis on the proper fuel management and tuning. :-D
 

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planeman01 said:
b20luda
tonybaker12
fuzzygreen
jump
planemn01
jump isnt turbo'd...but he's looking into going the turbo route :)

I would say to not go the cheap route as well. not only is it unreliable, it looks ghetto and will destroy the engine.

cheap turbo setup = bad :razz:
 

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jump isnt turbo'd...but he's looking into going the turbo route

I know, i included him in my list of trusted members cause he prolly knows more about the motor itself than just about anybody on here-


I just feel that my goals are smaller than everyone elses in comparison
I started out with almost exactly the same goals, and i reached tham, I tried to take every precaution and it still wasn't perfect...i know you might not want perfection so that's fine...I just wanted people to understand that its not as easy as they might thing. There's a ton of things you dont anticipate along the way...

Rick
 

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Tuning is the key kids it really is and until people realize it u will have many ah broken ring lands..trust me ive done it a few times...not saying people havent reliably supported a turbo setup with an FMU but there is more room for things to go wrong that route jacking fuel pressure to the moon is not a good idea...just ask your injectors how they feel :wink: i made 204whp and 185wtq on 8psi with a intercooler that wasnt working right at the time (water to air) this was on 450cc DSM and AFC hack that motor blew over time....now i run Hondata and am very happy with it...S300 is a neat tool..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, so using an FMU is asking for trouble and I see that alot of you agree on this.

Rick, you are using chrome, and you got a chipped ECU. What did that cost you? I do want reliability for daily driving.

I am still only looking to run 6-7psi and no more. I know that turbo charging an N/A motor is asking to rebuild soon than later, I do expect that, I am just trying to get the stuff I need to get the whole system running(reliably).

I see that tuning is the obvious thing to do, but I don't understand UBERDATA, and changing my ECU is confusing me, do to I want to keep my car emissions friendly.:???:

I am gathering as much info as I can and I am looking at Honda-tech.com for info as well. I just keep coming to our site coz it is 3rd Gen specific.:neutral:


b20luda said:
Tuning is the key kids it really is and until people realize it u will have many ah broken ring lands..trust me ive done it a few times...not saying people havent reliably supported a turbo setup with an FMU but there is more room for things to go wrong that route jacking fuel pressure to the moon is not a good idea...just ask your injectors how they feel ;) i made 204whp and 185wtq on 8psi with a intercooler that wasnt working right at the time (water to air) this was on 450cc DSM and AFC hack that motor blew over time....now i run Hondata and am very happy with it...S300 is a neat tool..
 

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ive got no experence with the preludes....but ive boosted a few cars in my life time. if you have the money, hands down there is no substatute for some type of programable ecu. but, with an fmu, larger fuel pump and an msd btm you can run for years. granted you will not run insaine amounts of boost or have the last 10 hp or so. tuning is one of the keys, but the key ring is ehr on the side of caution, relyability is another key. i beleave in simplicity. simplicity in user adjustability. i onlu have experence with haltech for ecus, but they just arnt as simple as an fmu and btm. i know there are other ecus that may be simpler, but im only going by what i know. if you boost an engine, listen to what everyone can tell you. better safe than sorry. dont be afraid to try some thing that some one else couldnt get to work, but just be carefull when you do it. read, read, read! knowing is half the battle!
 
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