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12. Install new cam seals:
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13. Remove the lower timing cover. Keep in mind that there is a wire loom on the back side of it that connects to the crank sensors...you must disconnect this wire from the cover first...take your time.
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The crank pulley must be removed to free lower cover:
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14. Lower cover out of the way:
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15. Remove the side engine mount:
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16. Remove the autotensioner assy. (refer to the auto to manual tensioner swap writeups)
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17. If replacing the crank shaft oil seal, remove the crank angle sensor assy. (4, 10mm bolts) and carefully remove the timing belt drive gear from the crankshaft. Remove the old crank shaft oil seal:
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Replace with new crank shaft oil seal! Make sure it seats uniform...I used a small hammer and blunt tipped tapper
18. Remove old water pump and install new:
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19. Install manual tensioner parts (see manual tensioner writeups):
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20. If replacing the balance shaft seal:
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Be sure to install the balance shaft seal retainer!
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21. Installing new Timing Belt:
Reinstall the plastic plate under the cam gears, then reinstall the cam gears
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(yes I realize that in this pic the plastic plate isn't under the cam gears)
Then hold and tighten each cam gear to the torque specified in the Helms manual
Place each cam gear at TDC according to the Helms Manual:
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Put the crank timing belt drive pulley at TDC according to the Helms manual. There are little marks on it that must line up with the pointer.
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Install the timing belt over the crank drive gear, be sure not to turn the crank shaft once set at TDC!
This is the tricky part: While keeping the cam gears at TDC, wrap the timing belt around the front gear and then the rear, use a zip tie to help you hold it in the correct position on the first cam gear while you work the belt over the water pump and tensioner pulley!
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I had to pull the tensioner pulley off of it's pivot point in order to get the timing belt over the pulley...yes it's going to be tight!
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Once you are on, turn the engine counterclockwise using the crank pulley placed over the crank shaft and gloves to turn it. This is MUCH easier if you remove the spark plugs first:
Once you've turned the engine several revolutions recheck that the cam gears are both at TDC when the crank gear is at TDC...if they match up, you are good to go!
22. Install the balance belt. Follow the proceedure in Helms to align the rear pulley. You will need a 100mm x 6mm bolt to insert in the maintenance hole at the back of the block to hold the rear balance shaft in the correct position while you install the new balance belt
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****There is a groove in the shaft of the front balance shaft that must line up with the pointer while you install the balance shaft belt. If it's off by one tooth you'll know it, the groove won't even be close to lining up with the pointer.
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23. Set the correct tension on the timing belt and balance shaft belts!
I went by feel since I've done timing belts before. I found that the timing belt was just right with the tensioner as loose as it goes! The balance belt needed to be about half way between the tensioners travel from loose to tight to have the right deflection for me.
If anyone has the correct belt deflection numbers please share them!
Once you set the tension you must tighten the tensioner adjusting nut (14mm) to the correct torque and then tighten the small bolt that goes to the pivot arm. Turn the engine several revolutions counterclockwise by hand to be sure there is free movement.
24. Reinstall the lower timing cover:
********First install the side engine mount!
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Note: one of these pics shows the lower cover with the engine mount off so you can see more detail.
25. Reinstall the upper timing cover and the 2 rubber seals that go over the 2 adjuster bolts that go through the lower timing cover:
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26. Reinstall the rest of the side engine mount
27. Reinstall the valve cover. Be sure to use a new gasket set for the valve cover or at least apply some RTV to the seals, especially the corners of the seals near the cam ends.
28. Reinstall the PS and alternator brackets, heat shield, alternator, PS pump and both drive belts.
29. Refill the motor oil.
30. Refill the coolant.
31. Reconnect anything else that may be disconnected (ie: PS pump line, alternator wire loom, PCV valve, spark plugs and wires, etc etc. Use your best judgement to be sure everything is in order before starting the car!
32. Reconnect the battery Negative terminal.
33. Leave the radiator cap off
34. Open the coolant bleeder valve on the top of the thermostat:
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35. Start the car and make sure it feels and sounds right! If all is good, let it reach operating temperature and eventually coolant and air will start flowing from the coolant bleeder valve...once there is no more air, close the bleeder valve. Close the radiator cap. turn the car off and let it cool down. Once cool, remove radiator cap and top off coolant level.
36. Check oil level and check for fluid leaks.
37. Torque your crank pulley bolt to 180 ft lbs! No, that's not a typo! It's best to use an impact torque wrench so as not to turn the engine backwards!
38. Test drive! :turn:
39. You did it! Now go have a brew and take a long nap! That was HARD WORK! You now know why they charge so much for the Full Timing belt job!
13. Remove the lower timing cover. Keep in mind that there is a wire loom on the back side of it that connects to the crank sensors...you must disconnect this wire from the cover first...take your time.
The crank pulley must be removed to free lower cover:
14. Lower cover out of the way:
15. Remove the side engine mount:
16. Remove the autotensioner assy. (refer to the auto to manual tensioner swap writeups)
17. If replacing the crank shaft oil seal, remove the crank angle sensor assy. (4, 10mm bolts) and carefully remove the timing belt drive gear from the crankshaft. Remove the old crank shaft oil seal:
Replace with new crank shaft oil seal! Make sure it seats uniform...I used a small hammer and blunt tipped tapper
18. Remove old water pump and install new:
19. Install manual tensioner parts (see manual tensioner writeups):
20. If replacing the balance shaft seal:
Be sure to install the balance shaft seal retainer!
21. Installing new Timing Belt:
Reinstall the plastic plate under the cam gears, then reinstall the cam gears
(yes I realize that in this pic the plastic plate isn't under the cam gears)
Then hold and tighten each cam gear to the torque specified in the Helms manual
Place each cam gear at TDC according to the Helms Manual:
Put the crank timing belt drive pulley at TDC according to the Helms manual. There are little marks on it that must line up with the pointer.
Install the timing belt over the crank drive gear, be sure not to turn the crank shaft once set at TDC!
This is the tricky part: While keeping the cam gears at TDC, wrap the timing belt around the front gear and then the rear, use a zip tie to help you hold it in the correct position on the first cam gear while you work the belt over the water pump and tensioner pulley!
I had to pull the tensioner pulley off of it's pivot point in order to get the timing belt over the pulley...yes it's going to be tight!
Once you are on, turn the engine counterclockwise using the crank pulley placed over the crank shaft and gloves to turn it. This is MUCH easier if you remove the spark plugs first:
Once you've turned the engine several revolutions recheck that the cam gears are both at TDC when the crank gear is at TDC...if they match up, you are good to go!
22. Install the balance belt. Follow the proceedure in Helms to align the rear pulley. You will need a 100mm x 6mm bolt to insert in the maintenance hole at the back of the block to hold the rear balance shaft in the correct position while you install the new balance belt
****There is a groove in the shaft of the front balance shaft that must line up with the pointer while you install the balance shaft belt. If it's off by one tooth you'll know it, the groove won't even be close to lining up with the pointer.
23. Set the correct tension on the timing belt and balance shaft belts!
I went by feel since I've done timing belts before. I found that the timing belt was just right with the tensioner as loose as it goes! The balance belt needed to be about half way between the tensioners travel from loose to tight to have the right deflection for me.
If anyone has the correct belt deflection numbers please share them!
Once you set the tension you must tighten the tensioner adjusting nut (14mm) to the correct torque and then tighten the small bolt that goes to the pivot arm. Turn the engine several revolutions counterclockwise by hand to be sure there is free movement.
24. Reinstall the lower timing cover:
********First install the side engine mount!
Note: one of these pics shows the lower cover with the engine mount off so you can see more detail.
25. Reinstall the upper timing cover and the 2 rubber seals that go over the 2 adjuster bolts that go through the lower timing cover:
26. Reinstall the rest of the side engine mount
27. Reinstall the valve cover. Be sure to use a new gasket set for the valve cover or at least apply some RTV to the seals, especially the corners of the seals near the cam ends.
28. Reinstall the PS and alternator brackets, heat shield, alternator, PS pump and both drive belts.
29. Refill the motor oil.
30. Refill the coolant.
31. Reconnect anything else that may be disconnected (ie: PS pump line, alternator wire loom, PCV valve, spark plugs and wires, etc etc. Use your best judgement to be sure everything is in order before starting the car!
32. Reconnect the battery Negative terminal.
33. Leave the radiator cap off
34. Open the coolant bleeder valve on the top of the thermostat:
35. Start the car and make sure it feels and sounds right! If all is good, let it reach operating temperature and eventually coolant and air will start flowing from the coolant bleeder valve...once there is no more air, close the bleeder valve. Close the radiator cap. turn the car off and let it cool down. Once cool, remove radiator cap and top off coolant level.
36. Check oil level and check for fluid leaks.
37. Torque your crank pulley bolt to 180 ft lbs! No, that's not a typo! It's best to use an impact torque wrench so as not to turn the engine backwards!
38. Test drive! :turn:
39. You did it! Now go have a brew and take a long nap! That was HARD WORK! You now know why they charge so much for the Full Timing belt job!
