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"THE DOCTOR IS IN"
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well guys, 2 weeks ago i posted a thread entitled: Clutch issues, need help were I said the problems i was having with my clutch. I could not put in any gear and i didnt experienced clutch slipping, so... with the help of other members on this wonderful place, i realized that the slave cylinder was fucked up.

THIS WRITE UP IS FOR THE 4TH GEN.. I DONT KNOW IF IT DOES THE JOB WITH OTHER LUDES!!!

So... The first thing you need to know is what the problem is...

If you dont have a slippery clutch, then the problem must be in the hydraulic system.

The clutch hydraulic system is made of a master cylinder, which is attached under the small dot 3 reservoir in the driver's side of the car, attached to the firewall. It connects inside the car with your clutch pedal.
then you have various dot3 metal lines which transport the liquid onto the slave cylinder which pushes a piston to move the fork so gears can engage when you want. A dot 3 reservoir where you fill it with the liquid.

So more or less, the system is like this...

When you push your clutch pedal, the clutch master cylinder gets dot3 liquid from the reservoir and it is pushed on to the slave cylinder. Once it gets there, the liquid pushes the slave's piston and then this piston moves a rod which moves the fork so you can engage transmission..

To see what the problem is, you have to FIRST. See if your dot3 reservoir is empty... If it is, then you must have leaks somewhere. So...Check for leaks around the system. If your firewall or your clutch pedal is full of dot3/4 fluid, then the master cylinder is fucked up.

Second: If thats fine, then you have to see if the slave cylinder has any leaks. The slave cylinder is located in the passenger side, right behind the rad fan. If its leaking, then there is the problem. If you cant see any liquid, then you will have to BLEED the fluid out of the system to see if there is air and bubbles in it. That way, you can see that you have a leak somewhere, thats where the air enters and causes the clutch malfuntion, commonly known as "clutch pedal stuck on the floor or ultra soft pedal".-

So First... In order to bleed the clutch you will have to locate the bleed valve. This one is located in the slave cylinder...

This one is the slave cylinder.-



Now... that is the "clear picture" of the slave....

Let's see the diagram i made so you can understand how this piece of crap works...or doesnt work lol...



Now that you know all about it... lets start with 1) the bleeding process and 2) how to replace the slave cylinder, in case thats your problem too...

Tools needed:

New slave cylinder
2 bottles of dot3/4 fluid (just in case)
8mm wrench
10mm wrench
12mm wrench
50 cigarettes
a buddy to help you, in my case it was my wife
a clear thing hose
a clean clear half bottle of coke or whatever

Lets start the process...

First of all,

1) Check if your dot3 clutch reservoir is empty. If it is... fill it, and keep an eye on it so it doesnt get empty cause if not you would have to start over cause if there is no liquid then the system will suck air and you will still have air in the system. That is what we dont want, neither with a new slave cylinder.

This is the clutch reservoir...



2) Connect the small clear hose onto the bleeder valve. Some people say its a bleeder screw, thats incorrect.

(If its a screw then you wont be able to plug in anything without removing it and the real thing is that its a valve. Being a valve you are able to plug in a clear thin hose and loosen the 8mm nut with a wrench while having the hose connected to it.)

Heres the pic of the bleeder valve with the clear hose connected...



3) The other end of the clear hose must end in a dot 3 bottle.. Here's the pic and the explanation...



Some people say that the half bottle must be situated on a higher placer than the bleeder valve. I tried both ways and it worked the same so..

3) Tell your friend to sit in your car.. make sure to tell him that it will be the only time that he will ever sit on the drivers side lol, and tell him to start pumping the clutch pedal when you shout start! (You will say start as soon as you loosen the bleeder valve.) Here its important to tell your buddy to hit gently the pedal till it hits the floor, and also advice him that pedal will get stuck at the bottom when you open the valve, so he will have to take it out with his hand and repeat a few times.

4) After you open the valve and your buddy starts pumping, you will notice air and bubbles in the clear hose. That means that air is killing your system, and thats why you are bleeding the system. Bleeding the system, doesnt mean that your problem will be solved. It means that you do it to see if there is air, and then locate leaks and all that shit. While your buddy hits the pedal, make sure to keep an eye on the reservoir cause it will be empty in no time (like in 8 pedal hits) and then it will suck air, and you will never finish the job.. So the reservoir must be full all the time.

5) After your buddy hits the pedal 6 times aprox. Close the bleeder. And ask him if he feels the pedal different.. It should feel harder and it should return to the up position... This wont happen if your slave cylinder is fucked up. It you can bleed the system, then that should mean that at least your master cylinder is fine (not in all cases)... cause its pushing liquid all the way to the slave.

6) Now... Lets assume that I am right, and your master cylinder is fine, in the theory that liquid is pushed onto the slave, so if the problem persists then the problem is the slave cylinder....

Here's the fun part....

How to remove the slave cylinder...

1) Lift your car, and use jack stands so you dont get killed. Remove the right front wheel, although its not necesary, but you will see a little bit more.

2) Remove or at least move a little, the radiator fan cause its a pain in the ass to do the job with that thing on the way.

To remove the fan, you just have to unscrew (4) 10mm screws located (2) in the top part of the fan, and there are other (2) in the bottom part of it. Then you have to disconnect the fan electronic plug or whatever it is called.. The green one... you will easily spot it....

After you do that, try to bring the fan up, so you have clearance to work. I can assure you that it wont come out completly due to the ac hoses in the way.

3) Now. The slave cylinder is hold by (2) 12mm bolts and the dot3 hard line. Get your ass underneath the car and remove the 12mm bolts which are located under the slave. ITs very hard to access them, but you will figure a way to do it.

4) At this point you should say... well.. now i have to remove the hard line.. DONT!!!! if you try to losen the nut with the slave flying there you will def. twist and crack the hard line.. What i want you to do is remove the slave and the hard line alltogether, cause you need to check them anyways so... just follow my advice.

5) Now that you have the slave flying, i mean, its only hold by the hard line, you should remove the other end of the line so you can take all the shit out of the engine bay.

6) Follow the hardline until you see the other end which is near the abs monstrous device. Here you have a pic. (Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut)



Of couse some dot3 fluid will fall over the place... Try not to touch it cause it burns a little, and the most important thing you have to know is that is literally eats your car paint.. so beware.

7) Now you will have to remove one more bolt (10mm) which is located right under the distributor. It only hold the line to the engine block.

8) After that the slave with the metal hose attached should come out....

Here's the pic...





9) Do a visual inspection, as trying to impress your buddy with your knowledge hahahahahha



10) Now that you saw that your slave cylinder is broken, grab the new one, put grease in the little ball in the knob and replace it in the reverse way. I suggest you to plug the hose onto the slave before you put the slave in the engine, cause its easier to do that, instead of trying to connect it afterwards. Also notice that when you connect the hose in the slave the rest of the hose (after the nut) will rotate freely, so you can easily find its way onto the other port for connection.-

11) After you do all that, you will have to bleed the system again. The good thing here is, that now... after all the air is out, the pedal will regain its normal upright position and you will be good to go..... Dont forget to add fluid if you are left with less than the minimium.

12) Smoke a little bit more...



Well I hope you like it, and im sure this will help you at least a bit.. Any questions feel free to ask. If you have corrections, just do them.

HJDANZI
 

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Thanks man!!
 

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"THE DOCTOR IS IN"
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Discussion Starter #5
nice write up man. the tats remind me of my dad's
Thanks a lot bro! I appreciate it! So; your dad is all tattooed like me? I really want to see pics of him dude! Thanks for the props.
 

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Thanks a lot bro! I appreciate it! So; your dad is all tattooed like me? I really want to see pics of him dude! Thanks for the props.
No problem man. Yeah he had quiet a few tattoo's as well. I have some pics but not on a digital camera or w/e. He passed a way a while ago
 

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"THE DOCTOR IS IN"
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Discussion Starter #7
No problem man. Yeah he had quiet a few tattoo's as well. I have some pics but not on a digital camera or w/e. He passed a way a while ago
OHhh shit man, iam very very sorry.. I mean it.. Im deeply sorry bro..
 

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OHhh shit man, iam very very sorry.. I mean it.. Im deeply sorry bro..
Oh its ok. I appreciate it though. I didn't know him to long. He was in my life when i was born up until i was 2 then my parent's separated. I started to visit him regularly when i was 8 and got to know him some for about 3 months then he passed away on me and my bro's b-day party.

Sorry. Don't mean to clog up your thread with my stuff lol
 

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"THE DOCTOR IS IN"
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Discussion Starter #9
Oh its ok. I appreciate it though. I didn't know him to long. He was in my life when i was born up until i was 2 then my parent's separated. I started to visit him regularly when i was 8 and got to know him some for about 3 months then he passed away on me and my bro's b-day party.

Sorry. Don't mean to clog up your thread with my stuff lol
Sorry to hear all that man.. it sucks. As for the thread clogging, dont worry bro, preludepower is more than a prelude forum (I know you know).. so all your personal stuff are welcomed in my threads, and btw.. your story is much more important than replacing a slave cylinder.. So, thanks again, for sharing.
 

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Sorry to hear all that man.. it sucks. As for the thread clogging, dont worry bro, preludepower is more than a prelude forum (I know you know).. so all your personal stuff are welcomed in my threads, and btw.. your story is much more important than replacing a slave cylinder.. So, thanks again, for sharing.
Thanks man. I appreciate it. Nice to see ppl with compassion when it is about something thats real
 

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Vrooom PSHHHH
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Looks good man! Glad you got it all worked out
 

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"THE DOCTOR IS IN"
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Discussion Starter #12
Looks good man! Glad you got it all worked out
THANKs man!!! I did it, thanks to all the help you gave me so.. THANKS A LOT BUDDY!!! Btw.. the fan didnt come out.. hahaha its impossible.. but i moved it a little. haah well man, thanks again! I have nothing but gratitude with all the users in this site...
 

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Well guys, 2 weeks ago i posted a thread entitled: Clutch issues, need help were I said the problems i was having with my clutch. I could not put in any gear and i didnt experienced clutch slipping, so... with the help of other members on this wonderful place, i realized that the slave cylinder was fucked up.

THIS WRITE UP IS FOR THE 4TH GEN.. I DONT KNOW IF IT DOES THE JOB WITH OTHER LUDES!!!

So... The first thing you need to know is what the problem is...

If you dont have a slippery clutch, then the problem must be in the hydraulic system.

The clutch hydraulic system is made of a master cylinder, which is attached under the small dot 3 reservoir in the driver's side of the car, attached to the firewall. It connects inside the car with your clutch pedal.
then you have various dot3 metal lines which transport the liquid onto the slave cylinder which pushes a piston to move the fork so gears can engage when you want. A dot 3 reservoir where you fill it with the liquid.

So more or less, the system is like this...

When you push your clutch pedal, the clutch master cylinder gets dot3 liquid from the reservoir and it is pushed on to the slave cylinder. Once it gets there, the liquid pushes the slave's piston and then this piston moves a rod which moves the fork so you can engage transmission..

To see what the problem is, you have to FIRST. See if your dot3 reservoir is empty... If it is, then you must have leaks somewhere. So...Check for leaks around the system. If your firewall or your clutch pedal is full of dot3/4 fluid, then the master cylinder is fucked up.

Second: If thats fine, then you have to see if the slave cylinder has any leaks. The slave cylinder is located in the passenger side, right behind the rad fan. If its leaking, then there is the problem. If you cant see any liquid, then you will have to BLEED the fluid out of the system to see if there is air and bubbles in it. That way, you can see that you have a leak somewhere, thats where the air enters and causes the clutch malfuntion, commonly known as "clutch pedal stuck on the floor or ultra soft pedal".-

So First... In order to bleed the clutch you will have to locate the bleed valve. This one is located in the slave cylinder...

This one is the slave cylinder.-



Now... that is the "clear picture" of the slave....

Let's see the diagram i made so you can understand how this piece of crap works...or doesnt work lol...



Now that you know all about it... lets start with 1) the bleeding process and 2) how to replace the slave cylinder, in case thats your problem too...

Tools needed:

New slave cylinder
2 bottles of dot3/4 fluid (just in case)
8mm wrench
10mm wrench
12mm wrench
50 cigarettes
a buddy to help you, in my case it was my wife
a clear thing hose
a clean clear half bottle of coke or whatever

Lets start the process...

First of all,

1) Check if your dot3 clutch reservoir is empty. If it is... fill it, and keep an eye on it so it doesnt get empty cause if not you would have to start over cause if there is no liquid then the system will suck air and you will still have air in the system. That is what we dont want, neither with a new slave cylinder.

This is the clutch reservoir...



2) Connect the small clear hose onto the bleeder valve. Some people say its a bleeder screw, thats incorrect.

(If its a screw then you wont be able to plug in anything without removing it and the real thing is that its a valve. Being a valve you are able to plug in a clear thin hose and loosen the 8mm nut with a wrench while having the hose connected to it.)

Heres the pic of the bleeder valve with the clear hose connected...



3) The other end of the clear hose must end in a dot 3 bottle.. Here's the pic and the explanation...



Some people say that the half bottle must be situated on a higher placer than the bleeder valve. I tried both ways and it worked the same so..

3) Tell your friend to sit in your car.. make sure to tell him that it will be the only time that he will ever sit on the drivers side lol, and tell him to start pumping the clutch pedal when you shout start! (You will say start as soon as you loosen the bleeder valve.) Here its important to tell your buddy to hit gently the pedal till it hits the floor, and also advice him that pedal will get stuck at the bottom when you open the valve, so he will have to take it out with his hand and repeat a few times.

4) After you open the valve and your buddy starts pumping, you will notice air and bubbles in the clear hose. That means that air is killing your system, and thats why you are bleeding the system. Bleeding the system, doesnt mean that your problem will be solved. It means that you do it to see if there is air, and then locate leaks and all that shit. While your buddy hits the pedal, make sure to keep an eye on the reservoir cause it will be empty in no time (like in 8 pedal hits) and then it will suck air, and you will never finish the job.. So the reservoir must be full all the time.

5) After your buddy hits the pedal 6 times aprox. Close the bleeder. And ask him if he feels the pedal different.. It should feel harder and it should return to the up position... This wont happen if your slave cylinder is fucked up. It you can bleed the system, then that should mean that at least your master cylinder is fine (not in all cases)... cause its pushing liquid all the way to the slave.

6) Now... Lets assume that I am right, and your master cylinder is fine, in the theory that liquid is pushed onto the slave, so if the problem persists then the problem is the slave cylinder....

Here's the fun part....

How to remove the slave cylinder...

1) Lift your car, and use jack stands so you dont get killed. Remove the right front wheel, although its not necesary, but you will see a little bit more.

2) Remove or at least move a little, the radiator fan cause its a pain in the ass to do the job with that thing on the way.

To remove the fan, you just have to unscrew (4) 10mm screws located (2) in the top part of the fan, and there are other (2) in the bottom part of it. Then you have to disconnect the fan electronic plug or whatever it is called.. The green one... you will easily spot it....

After you do that, try to bring the fan up, so you have clearance to work. I can assure you that it wont come out completly due to the ac hoses in the way.

3) Now. The slave cylinder is hold by (2) 12mm bolts and the dot3 hard line. Get your ass underneath the car and remove the 12mm bolts which are located under the slave. ITs very hard to access them, but you will figure a way to do it.

4) At this point you should say... well.. now i have to remove the hard line.. DONT!!!! if you try to losen the nut with the slave flying there you will def. twist and crack the hard line.. What i want you to do is remove the slave and the hard line alltogether, cause you need to check them anyways so... just follow my advice.

5) Now that you have the slave flying, i mean, its only hold by the hard line, you should remove the other end of the line so you can take all the shit out of the engine bay.

6) Follow the hardline until you see the other end which is near the abs monstrous device. Here you have a pic. (Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut)



Of couse some dot3 fluid will fall over the place... Try not to touch it cause it burns a little, and the most important thing you have to know is that is literally eats your car paint.. so beware.

7) Now you will have to remove one more bolt (10mm) which is located right under the distributor. It only hold the line to the engine block.

8) After that the slave with the metal hose attached should come out....

Here's the pic...





9) Do a visual inspection, as trying to impress your buddy with your knowledge hahahahahha



10) Now that you saw that your slave cylinder is broken, grab the new one, put grease in the little ball in the knob and replace it in the reverse way. I suggest you to plug the hose onto the slave before you put the slave in the engine, cause its easier to do that, instead of trying to connect it afterwards. Also notice that when you connect the hose in the slave the rest of the hose (after the nut) will rotate freely, so you can easily find its way onto the other port for connection.-

11) After you do all that, you will have to bleed the system again. The good thing here is, that now... after all the air is out, the pedal will regain its normal upright position and you will be good to go..... Dont forget to add fluid if you are left with less than the minimium.

12) Smoke a little bit more...



Well I hope you like it, and im sure this will help you at least a bit.. Any questions feel free to ask. If you have corrections, just do them.

HJDANZI
My clutch engages really high off of the floor. Any idea what I should do about that?
 

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"THE DOCTOR IS IN"
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Discussion Starter #16
My clutch engages really high off of the floor. Any idea what I should do about that?
Yeah... the clearance of your pedal is way out of balance. You have to check the free play of the pedal... You have a lot of free play.. Check the helms... BTW, PLEASE DONT EVER QUOTE ALL THE DIY AGAIN... What you do is to make the page very slow to load due to the quoting of several pages of pics and info... please dont do that, cause if not is very difficult for other people to read.
 

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Thanks I'm really gonna need this soon!

Actually I have one more question...

I was told to use brake fluid DOT 4 to do this... but why do some people use Honda ATF??

Obviously Honda ATF is more expensive... but if its going to help or make it shift smoother, I'd rather pick some of THAT up.

Any suggestions on that front?>:
 

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"THE DOCTOR IS IN"
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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks I'm really gonna need this soon!

Actually I have one more question...

I was told to use brake fluid DOT 4 to do this... but why do some people use Honda ATF??

Obviously Honda ATF is more expensive... but if its going to help or make it shift smoother, I'd rather pick some of THAT up.

Any suggestions on that front?>:
Yeah... Dot4 has a higher point of evaporation than dot3, and hondaatf has a higher one than dot4.. dot 4 will be fine... Its what honda recommends! I hope this diy helps! GL
 

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did you ever consider using the hand vaccum pump bleeders on the clutch line?

how would that work?

good idea? bad?

I may or may not have a helper with me when i'm ready to do this job to hit the pedal for me.
 
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