Honda Prelude Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I check my oil level and it was low. I looked around and checked to see where the leak could be. I can see oil drop (not accessively) at the bottom nut of the cylinder sensor. Opened the cover, I can see oil was inside the sensor.

Anyone experience this ? What could be wrong.

Appreciate for your opinion
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
Well for the 50th time there are "2" seals, one inside the cylinder sensor which is not available from honda. The other seal is an oring which seals the head where the cylinder sensor bolts to it. If you have oil inside the cylinder sensor #5 probably won't solve the problem but its a start and good idea considering age. Internal seal is available online. I bought mine from moonlight mechanic or whatever. hold on and I'll give you a link of sites. Here ya go read these 2 pages:

http://preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204043&highlight=cylinder+sensor+seal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks cudaboy. That's what I need. BTW, reading other post Did you endup with fixing your with these seal ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
I bought them they look like good seals but never have bothered to put them on. But I did replace the orings and cleaned the side of the head and the top of the tranny. I don't have any oil coming out but I think the drain is plugged. I'm hopeing its not full of oil. Its still running so hasn't been a priority. I'm sure its still leaking in their but since discovered im burning oil in the b21. Maybe I'll make it a priority this week.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
Well tonight I finally took of the cylinder sensor and took it apart. I would recommend you printing out the parts diagram as I couldn't find anything on the internals in my helms manual. Maybe I looked in the wrong place or maybe its in the electrical supplement (that I didn't want to dig out). The first thing you'll want to do once you get it off is to lay out some table space and decide that either the right or left side of the tablespace will be the first thing you take off internally (and the last thing you'll put back on). Then from that first piece lay stuff in a row side by side (consectively) as you take it apart. The first piece after the cap is off is to pry the rotor thing (#13) with the locking pin attached. I had to use a flathead screwdriver that I had bent at a right angle along time back. You may be able to use some kind of pulley puller or battery terminal puller. Next you can unscrew the 2 screws that hold on the transducer/magnetic pickup thingy (#11). This out of the way use an E-clip seperator pliers and remove snap ring (#18 ) At this time you want to recognize the clock position of the chamfer on the shaft in relation to the cam offset key (towards the head). Now you can remove the C- clip that goes around the cam key on the external side (adjacent to the head while installed). This clip is the furthest left washer in item (#6). Once the C-clip is removed, remove the pin in item (#6). Take (#6) apart and lay in order taken off. Tap the shaft lightly with a small hammer or screwdriver handle from the external/ head side. You should now be able to pull the shaft out and washer from the front. Almost to the prize now! Take screwdriver and hammer out the washer covering the seal from the backside. Next hammer out the seal with screwdriver. Clean. Install the seal by using an appropiate sized socket lightly tap it in place. Install the washer cover and using a screwdriver rehammer the chads of alluminum of the housing over the washer. Reasemble in reverse manner making sure the chamfer on the shaft is in the correct clock position when installing pin (#6) on the cam key, head side. If you mess up here your cylinder sensor will be off 180 degrees and your engine would run real rough?? like a misfire. It took me maybe an hour 1/2 total. MODS PLEASE STICKY THIS!! Cudaboy! :wink:

 
  • Like
Reactions: Kaspin

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
i've seen cars on honda-tech running without this sensor...what happens when your ditch it? CEL a assume? how necissary is it?

Rick
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294,967,295 Posts
looks like a distributor without the cap and wires. Its bolted to the head to the right of the distributor or forward towards the front of the car.
 

·
Rep me if you hate my ass
Joined
·
4,348 Posts
The cam position sensor hangs out on the end of the exhaust cam. Removing or disconnecting it would have to cause the CEL to light up. The ECU needs the information it gets from the cam position sensor in order to fine tune injector timing. That's what I understand it does, anyway. Without the sensor, the CEL would come on and the engine might go back to open loop. I'm not sure if it would or not. I would think that it would return to open loop but I really don't know.

--J
 

·
I RULE YOU!!
Joined
·
1,750 Posts
The wires on my cam sensor were completely fucked and I had my B20 running for quite a while without it. It threw a CEL but as far as performance I couldn't tell any difference with it hooked up or disconnected.

Then my car threw a rod and got impounded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,722 Posts
how can you say it didn't make a difference in the engine then say you threw a rod?

open loop is the default fuel/ignition map the ECU uses until the engine warms up. That open loop setting runs relatively lean until the O2 sensor warms up and says the mixture can be more rich.

Lean mixture + long run times + hard driving = blow bottom end.

import tuna is right. that cam sensor is for fine tuning of ignition timing. There is a crank angle sensor inside the dizzy, too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,618 Posts
I need some help with getting this thing back together.. Joey that helps Andrew took it apart for me while I wasn't there and I don't know exactly how it came apart.

The little plastic washer that is sandwiched between the metal washer on top of the shaft seal and under the smaller washer that sits below the c clip disintegrated.. Will I have any problems if I don't have one of these in there anymore? Also does the rubber ring seal fit around the channel on the back part that fits against the head?


Here are some pictures of my process.

Here you can see the gap between the washers and the sensor bracket..



This is the part I still need to get together. Doe the two thin washers just sit against each other, then the cap, then the pin, and then the thin snap ring goes over the channel where the pin fits?
How can I tell how the part that fits into the cam goes? I made sure the shaft is installed back at the right angle that it was when I removed it..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,398 Posts
there are three seals in both the cam sensor and dizzy, one is the rubber o-ring #5 that is pictured in cuda's post, second is the dizzy cap and cam sensor cap seal(pictued as #20 and #15

I just did the same thing last night and posted this on my build
Read this for the third

does anyone know where to get a distributor oil seal, this thing that look like a cam seal but much smaller, and is the cam senser seal the same size as the dizzy

edit* after digging into the oem parts list I found the honda does not sell these, they would rather you buy the whole damn dizzy instead, but I did find an aftermaket company that makes them NOK part# W0133-1640599 distributor seal OD.22.50mm x thinkness7.5mm x ID.12.5mm. search buy part number as there are many online websire selling these.

I just bought two of these online, and they are about 12$ a piece. they like exactly like a cam seal, or oil pump seal, but much much smaller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,618 Posts
I bought two of those and put one in.. They are thinner than the original seal though.. My questions were related to the cap on the back, Where the rubber ring seal actually goes, and if the gap created by disintegrated plastic washed would make much difference..

edit: Joey only took apart the cap area with the pin in it on the shaft.. He didn't mess with anything else so I saw how that went together..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,584 Posts
This almost looks as bad as rebuilding the FIV. Wow someone needs to rebuild the CYL sensors and sell them. I was thinking about doing this with the FIV since mine worked out so well. I even bought extra silicon and viton o-rings in a million different tiny sizes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
I need some help with getting this thing back together.. Joey that helps Andrew took it apart for me while I wasn't there and I don't know exactly how it came apart.

The little plastic washer that is sandwiched between the metal washer on top of the shaft seal and under the smaller washer that sits below the c clip disintegrated.. Will I have any problems if I don't have one of these in there anymore? Also does the rubber ring seal fit around the channel on the back part that fits against the head?


Here are some pictures of my process.

Here you can see the gap between the washers and the sensor bracket..



This is the part I still need to get together. Doe the two thin washers just sit against each other, then the cap, then the pin, and then the thin snap ring goes over the channel where the pin fits?
How can I tell how the part that fits into the cam goes? I made sure the shaft is installed back at the right angle that it was when I removed it..
the two thin washers are actually shims, they go on first...then the cam follower goes on, however it has to be orientated correctly with the magnetic pic up in the upper portion of the sensor. the pin is slid into place to hold the cam follower on the shaft and then the thin snap ring is placed in the groove of the cam follower to hold the pin in place. when i did mine after i got the snap ring in place, i rotated the snap ring opening 90 degrees from the pin. one note of caution... there is a clearance to be set at the magnetic pick up. adjust the air gap 0.01-0.02 in between the cylinder rotor and the magnetic pick up. you can do this after you have everything else put together. here's the online shop manual page: http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/PreludeManual/62sf100/6-173.pdf

CLEAN EVERYTHING FIRST ! VERY IMPORTANT! CLEAN! CLEAN! CLEAN!
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top