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Discussion Starter #41
Sleeved, bored, honed, head surface redone. It wasn't cleaned, so I think I'm going to take it into another machinist myself for hot tanking to get that coolant residue out of there. I've been going back and forth on whether I want to risk painting it just to have it flake off, but since I'm making other efforts to make the engine look nice, I may as well go all the way. The paint will have more than enough time to cure before the engine fires up.

 

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Looks beautiful. A meth habit might be cheaper though. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #43
A meth habit's probably easier to kick as well. At least those people have support groups.

Today I got some more Prelude to put in my Accord, with a BB6 cluster! I found one (pictured), but then broke it while trying to roll the miles up to match my chassis. Then today I went to check out a BB6 that was being parted out, hoping to buy the trans. That didn't work out, the trans was damaged, but it did have a cluster for me to take a second crack at. I just love how these things look, especially compared to the dated CB cluster. The end goal is a custom cluster to do away with the factory dummy gauges, but at least now I have not only a manual cluster for my transmission swap, but one with a tachometer range more appropriate for my engine.

 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Ready to assemble! The block has still not been cleaned, haha, but I got the rotating assembly balanced, crank polished, new bearings, and the line hone was checked. Still trying to hold out for a Prelude transmission, but we'll see how long that can last before the excitement of this engine becomes too much. Accord transmissions are dime-a-dozen...



For those on Instagram, I finally created an account for the car: @accord_aero_r Login • Instagram
 

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Ready to assemble! The block has still not been cleaned, haha, but I got the rotating assembly balanced, crank polished, new bearings, and the line hone was checked. Still trying to hold out for a Prelude transmission, but we'll see how long that can last before the excitement of this engine becomes too much. Accord transmissions are dime-a-dozen...



For those on Instagram, I finally created an account for the car: Login • Instagram
That is a one good looking engine block !
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Got a decent amount of assembly done, but then ran into a snag today when I damaged the front crank seal in the oil pump. New OEM seal is on order, and it's looking like I'm stalled for a couple weeks. Not that timeline matters much, since the engine can't go in until the transmission's swapped. Still... the bottom end's looking pretty nice!



 

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I glanced through the previous posts, what crank and pistons? That looks like it'll generate pretty high compression!

Thanks for the update. Keep them coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I glanced through the previous posts, what crank and pistons? That looks like it'll generate pretty high compression!

Thanks for the update. Keep them coming!
Stock JDM H22A crank, Wiseco 11.5:1 pistons. Full build sheet is in the first post. The compression should make some good power N/A (shooting for 240-250whp), but it's still low enough that I can safely boost it later on if I decide to take it up to 300-350whp and put it in the league of the FK8. I doubt I'd ever want to go too crazy with it, being FWD and my preference for corners rather than straight lines.
 

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Thanks for posting your build. I actually read it a few months back on the CB7tuner forums.

What made you go with Skunk cams verse anything else? I'm in the process of creating my rebuild list and...I might just copy most of yours since I'm shooting for 220whp to 240whp!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks for posting your build. I actually read it a few months back on the CB7tuner forums.

What made you go with Skunk cams verse anything else? I'm in the process of creating my rebuild list and...I might just copy most of yours since I'm shooting for 220whp to 240whp!
The S2s were just in a lot of build threads I studied that were making the power I wanted, so I figured they'd be a headache-free choice. "Tried and true" is all it is. This being my first build and me not at all educated on the pros and cons of various cam specs, I would have gone with any popular choice, to be honest.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I've only got the weekends to work on this thing. Finished bottom end assembly...






Put the head on...




Pro 2 profile...




The all-important balance shaft seal retainer. MTC didn't fit, so I got OEM. Don't know why I didn't at first; I must have thought it was discontinued. Other (mostly) 'cheap insurance' measures include an OEM block heater for those forged internals, S2000 oil filters to maintain oil pressure should my tuner end up redlining this engine past 8k, switch to newer spring-style LMAs, Skunk2 magnetic drain plug, aforementioned balanced rotating assembly & ATI damper, and a manual timing tensioner conversion...




Cams were degreed in. Called for +0.5 deg. intake, +1 deg. exhaust. As you can see, I'm having typical belt walk issues thanks to the overly tight H23 manual tensioner conversion. I'm going to switch back to the H22 setup and get the KSTuned upgrades. I think that's all I have left to button up assembly. Then I'll go after the manual trans conversion while the F22 is still in the car, make sure that's working 100%, and then swap the H in.

 

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Looks nice. Any idea how much advance/retard you can run before you start having valve/valve clearance issues? They're stock-sized valves too, aren't they? It's been ages since I looked up Pro2 cam settings. Why'd you degree them for a little advance, both intake and exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I've no idea how much they can be adjusted, if I'm honest, but yes, the valves are stock-sized.

From what I understand, degreeing is the 'proper' way to install aftermarket camshafts that most people seem to skip doing. Basically, it zeroes out the cam lobes in relation to piston TDC, and those are the settings that mine zeroed out at.

I'm not sure how familiar you are with the process, so I'll explain: The centerline of the lobes isn't going to be exactly the same as that of the stock cams, which means that the alignment marks on the crankshaft and cam gears that you use to set timing when installing the timing belt are going to be very slightly off. Adjustable cam gears allow you to correct that through the degreeing process, so what's "+0.5 intake, +1 exhaust" on my cam gears is actually "0 in., 0 ex." for the cams themselves. Even if you built an engine with all the same parts as me, every cam/engine is going to be slightly different depending on the cam's manufacturing and any machining done to the head gasket surfaces, so my numbers won't necessarily work on other peoples' engines. I hope that makes sense. From there, they can be adjusted during tuning to mess with the power band.



To update: I ordered all of the parts to convert back to the H22 timing tensioner setup after my last post. The parts from Honda came quick, but KS Tuned's manual tensioner and tensioner pulley with walk blocker (photo below) finally arrived this week, so I'll be installing them this weekend. That should be the end of engine assembly. It's at this point that the budget I had to readily spend on this build is gone, and I'm still a solid chunk of change short of getting the car driving, so it's going to slow down a bit again. I still need the ECU w/Hondata (I'm getting a Phearable base-mapped ECU so I can get it running at home), manual trans conversion (junkyard trans, new starter & axles), fluids, a rear sway bar so the exhaust can be routed correctly, get the exhaust system welded up, and then get the car dyno tuned so I can finally get it emissions tested for registration. Luckily Colorado is pretty lax on emissions and inspection.




^ That first piece there is a cam gear holder that KS Tuned just released (Insta). A simple 3D print that holds the cam gears at TDC for you while you put the timing belt on.
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Finally finished with all that timing side mess. The walk blocker seems to be designed under the assumption that everyone ditches their balance shafts and therefore don't need that second tensioner pulley. I want my balancers in, so I made a spacer out of a large washer I had laying around; I just had to make the inside diameter a bit bigger to fit snug around the locating bolt:

Here's the locating bolt:




And the 'spacer'. It's sits further out than the surface of the walk blocker by a couple hairs, so in the unlikely event that the timing belt tensioner needs to be tightened, there's no risk of contact between the two.




Tensioner pulley fully installed and spinning smoothly:




When I ordered the timing components from Honda, I ordered everything, even down to the nut and bolt that stuck out, their rubber seals, and that mysterious cotter pin - what is that, a safety catch for the cover?




Hopefully I don't have to open this back up. The damper isn't pressed on yet, just held in place by the bolt for the sake of the photo. I'll wait until the engine is ready to go into the car for the full install.




The upper timing cover had to be cut because the adjustment bolts on the cam gears were rubbing. I'll figure something out to seal up the timing area eventually:




The KS Tuned oil sensor adapter needed a washer as well to seat properly on an H-series. There it is under the S2000 PCX oil filter and OEM block heater:




I cut something like 1/2" or 3/4" out of the primaries on the PLM header so it didn't hang quite so low. The little loops for the spring bolts were cut and shaved smooth as well; hopefully the header can be welded up 100%.






And just to show off the valve covers...




Still need to find an H22 power steering line for its upper end that I can have a hydraulics shop mate to the Accord lower.

 

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Discussion Starter #56
Manual swap was finished recently...

Nice, clean trans:




Some upgrades to the shifter feel:






Auto out. The whole bay is this gross; it's definitely getting a trip to the car wash before the H goes in:




New master and reservoir, and cleaned up a junkyard bracket:




Love me some OEM parts:




Competition 11.5 lb flywheel, which was followed up with an Exedy Stage 1 clutch (Duralast friction disc was stuck in for testing purposes):




Explicit Speed mounts, and low-profile rear bracket to allow clearance for a future K-series intake manifold upgrade:




I broke some brittle wires getting it in, but the manual gearbox is mounted!




Everything else buttoned back up, plus an Explicit Speed traction bar:




Tricking the auto's electronics into accepting the manual. Functional neutral safety will be wired up later:




Pedals in and with new pads, ITR shift boot, Circuit Hero extender, Skunk2 knob:




That carpet was also swapped out, by the way. Not only was it pretty badly stained, but there was just way too much burgundy in that interior. It's really grown on me, but a proper two-tone needs to be carried out. This blue will work for now, since it's so clean and relatively dark, but eventually black is my color of choice:




Took the car out for a test drive, and there's an issue with the clutch pedal travel. The pedal arm is missing the bushing for where the master cylinder rod pins in, so that's on order. Hopefully it takes care of my problem.

 

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Nice update! I had a tan/burgundy Auto CB accord for a short while. It was hard to find any love for the that color interior.

Did you confirm the 4.27 final drive on the gearbox or are you turning 2000rpm at 80mph? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Nice update! I had a tan/burgundy Auto CB accord for a short while. It was hard to find any love for the that color interior.

Did you confirm the 4.27 final drive on the gearbox or are you turning 2000rpm at 80mph? :D
It'll be a little while still before the car's back on the road to find that out, since I'm too lazy to go counting gears or wheel rotations. I'm not registering it until the H22's in and tuned.

Figured out the clutch pedal issue, though. The bushing for the master cylinder rod was worn, and the pin that goes through it was as well. Both were replaced and the clutch is engaging as it should now. Going to take care of some other small issues with the car before pulling the engine for the swap. Namely tracking down a power steering leak that's causing the reservoir to foam over.
 

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Now that you mention the clutch pedal/linkage/pin wear, my 300,000 mile 4G might be suffering from something similar. Either that or I'm too stupid to properly bleed the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Yeah, my whole pedal setup was pretty screwed:




Progress is slow lately, though. I got the ATI damper pressed on:




Picked up an ECU with S300 and a base map from Phearable so I can get the car running at home:




I think I've figured out what I need to keep P/S with this swap, and hopefully that will be dealt with soon so I can get the engine in the car...
 
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