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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right now I have an aem cai, apexi n1 exhaust, magnaflow high flow cat and a act 12lb flywheel. I had planned on getting crower stage 2 cams, skunk2 valve springs & retainers, possibly an rmf header, and then getting a phearable.net chipped ecu and tune via hondata s200. what kind of power should I expect to make with this setup? I really need to make my car faster but also keep reliability since this is my DD.
 

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Here is a quick tip:

Buy a second car, have a "fun car" and a "reliable car".
That way you can crank the prelude up to whatever level you like, and if the Hondata isn't working right for whatever reason, you can take the civic to work.

Thats my advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I dont have the money for a second car, and my job doesnt pay me enough for me to afford 2 cars. Thanks for the suggestion anyway though.
 

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ludespeed501 since your getting the a chipped ecu from phearable.net why not tune it with crome?

With stage two cams, i/e/ a good header you would be pretty close of if not make 200whp
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I dont think anybody around here has experience with crome, lol. I already know of a place that specializes in hondata, so thats why I chose that management.
 

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TopEndLude said:
ludespeed501 since your getting the a chipped ecu from phearable.net why not tune it with crome?

With stage two cams, i/e/ a good header you would be pretty close of if not make 200whp
:emthup::emthup:

keep your goals to the low side so you wont be disappointed. i am still debating on what cam i want to use i want a fatty midrange and peak power as well. i think its a toss up between crower stg2 and skunk stg2.

200whp a decent amount of power for a DD, if that doesnt satiate your craving you can always throw a 50 shot at it for when your feeling froggy and still maintain a reliable ride. thats pretty much my plans for the lude.
 

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TopEndLude said:
* cough cough... pro2s cough cough* aimed at 91preludesi
haha. sniff sniiff says the emissions tester every 2 years.
 

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a daily driver is/can be a real car. decide how far you wanna take it then go for mods.
 

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*cough* *cough* turbo charger *cough* (dont kill me please)

no im kidding. have you done a p&p maybe over sizing your valves, upgrade the fuel delivery? ignition. maybe over boring your block think in those terms. larger TB, nitrous, you got the bolt ons but you gotta start working on bigger things to get were you wanna go. and really if your job doesnt pay then how do you expect to play? you gotta pay to play.

no offence
 

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that setup is basically my setup minus the intake and replace the skunk2's with crower stage 2's. it was confirmed yesterday that i'm making over 200 (not gonna say yet... more tuning to do). i'm very pleased with my crower's. the skunk2 cams have a little bit more lift, but they also cost about $400 more. looking back, if i had known that i probably would've bought them but i'm very happy with my crowers.

however, i've spent about 14 hours on the dyno total.

do not use those cams with an obd2, or with an obd1 untuned. it will not work.

another good idea, if you're crazy enough, is to mill the crap out of the head like i did.

also... i recommend hondata over crome. i'm about fed-up with all of the crome glitches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Converge, how much of a difference did the crower stage 2's make when you dyno'd? and does it idle loud and rough?

with the phearable.net ecu.. I remember reading somewhere that they can program the ecu to be driveable with cams only until I get tuned? maybe I'm wrong?
 

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my crowers are very driveable. the idle is very rough when you start the car while the engine is still warm... and sometimes you've gotta give it a little bit of gas for it to start and hold it about about 1500 rpm for 20 or 30 seconds for it to regain it's idle, but other than that i can't complain. my car is pretty close to daily driven... but if it were 100% daily driven i can't forsee any problems i'd have. you're gonna have that idle problem with justabout any high lift cam you buy... but i wouldn't necessarily call it a problem because it's not a big deal at all.

if you do start the car and catch it at a time when there's a rough idle, it sounds awesome. it doesn't sound like any other 4 cylinder i've ever heard. i've had people come up to me at gas stations and say things like "holy crap dude! did you put a 350 in there?"

it's hard to say how much JUST the cams gave me, but combined with everything else i netted an extra ~32whp after all was said and done (so far). my car dyno'd at 172 when it was stock. the major players in my setup are the cams and my rmf... they work together really well and i can't really imagine one without the other. i'm still using a type-s airbox, too. i've been playing with cam gear settings on the dyno this past week, and i've been tuning on crome pro.

phearable did a good job of setting up my ecu to where it would be-semi driveable until i got it tuned. he put some kind of magical anti-stall thing on there, which helped out a lot. even with that, it was still tough to drive. without it, your car will stall almost everytime you stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thats what I wanted to hear. The reason I asked is b/c I want my car to have that aggressive idle sound like a V8. How does VTEC sound with the cams also? I would imagine that it pulls alot harder..

as far as tuning goes, I will ask phearable to put that "anti-stall" thing on my ecu, and then will eventually tune with the hondata s200 unit.
 

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VTAK pulls like crazy all the way up to 8000... that's really where that cam was made to perform. don't try that unless you've got a built valvetrain though. i'd suggest a 3-5 angle valve job and i'd also suggest you have your head milled. i milled mine all the way down to the max and my estimated compression is about 11.5:1 as opposed to the stock 10.0:1 (i think). all that machine work came out to be about $260, and it was well worth it. you might as well while you've got the head off anyway.

with the cams, rmf header, 2.5" cat and N1, my car is LOUD. it almost verges on ricey, but it's all power behind it. it backfires like crazy everytime you downshift or just coast along with your foot barely on the accelerator. all you hear is POP POP POP POP POP POP POP when you slow down to stop. it sounds really mean.

just be sure to tell him you're planning on getting cams in the near future and john over at phearable will know what to do.
 

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well, i got the crower stage 1, sometimes it idle but not as bad as the crower 2. i would recommend crower cams because of the price and good power gain. you look can look at my setup on the other thread, which is in this forum. i think it is, "what will get me to 190whp"...
 

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i wanna see some graphs of crowerstg2 vs skunk stg2. i am afraid that the skunk2's will have really peaky hp instead of a nice midrange. i want something that will pull real hard right at the vtec crossover instead of like 6500 where it seems that the skunk2 stg2 comes to life from the few graphs i've seen.
 

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i think for the h22, crower cams are the best for the money since the motor make much of it's power from 4-65 k. skunk 2 cams are better for the b-series motor because these motors are high reving and make good power from 7-10k, which fits with the skunk 2 profile. it's just my opinion.
 
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