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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We all know the EL clusters go bad from time to time. I thought there would be a FAQ spot for this or a Sticky some where. When I searched I get people saying "check fuse, check ground..." and then the threads typically just stop. Maybe I missed it. Now here I am starting probably another thread on this. So here goes.

This is a spare car of mine and I only drive it maybe once or twice a month if that, because of this the timeline of events is pretty long. My EL gauges went out. A few months later the Gas and Temp gauges started the normal dim to bright "warm up" as some like to call it. It did this for a few months and a short time after that the Gas and Temp went totally crazy blinking, dim, bright.....then nothing. I actually got a video of that part. Turn signals, Bright Lights signal, AT postion, CEL, ABS, Clock all work fine. I have been over fuses, replaced the dimmer switch, dimmer box by the clock, and the Power Inverter next to the cluster. Ground wires from the clock and dimmer switch have good continuity to the chassis. I do have a few spare clusters to try next. I have opened up one of the bad clusters to look for bad solder joints or burnt traces and did not find anything.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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We all know the EL clusters go bad from time to time. I thought there would be a FAQ spot for this or a Sticky some where. When I searched I get people saying "check fuse, check ground..." and then the threads typically just stop. Maybe I missed it. Now here I am starting probably another thread on this. So here goes.

This is a spare car of mine and I only drive it maybe once or twice a month if that, because of this the timeline of events is pretty long. My EL gauges went out. A few months later the Gas and Temp gauges started the normal dim to bright "warm up" as some like to call it. It did this for a few months and a short time after that the Gas and Temp went totally crazy blinking, dim, bright.....then nothing. I actually got a video of that part. Turn signals, Bright Lights signal, AT postion, CEL, ABS, Clock all work fine. I have been over fuses, replaced the dimmer switch, dimmer box by the clock, and the Power Inverter next to the cluster. Ground wires from the clock and dimmer switch have good continuity to the chassis. I do have a few spare clusters to try next. I have opened up one of the bad clusters to look for bad solder joints or burnt traces and did not find anything.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey, i kinda have the same problem, but for me its that speedometer cluster are really dim, Gas and Temp are fine, i can regulate those also normaly , but the thing is when i turn them to dim the speedometer cluster is completely out. I also checked sodlering inside the cluster, as far as i could tell it was all fine. Also tried to connect a spere speedometer, it wasnt working at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't chime in all at once guys.


So I guess no one has actually found the true problem here if a solution does not exists.
 

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Don't chime in all at once guys.


So I guess no one has actually found the true problem here if a solution does not exists.
I wanted to add smth, dont know if it makes problem more difficult or easier to solve. So, if i put led lights in cluster they are wery dim, if i put basic light bulbs in, they dont work at all.
 

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I had some weird dash light issues....

Don't chime in all at once guys. So I guess no one has actually found the true problem here if a solution does not exists.
I had very similar (not identical) faults to what you describe - then finally it happened one night everything flickered and then died! :eek2:

At the same time I could not restart the car and had to get it towed home the next morning. Onto a truck a couple of days later and off to the auto-electricians. It ended up being a worn ignition switch - they searched high and low got a 2nd hand one and fitted it - and it's all been great since! :lol:

Won't swear that this is your electrical fault - but it could be??

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In my case it is define pry not the ignition switch. All is good there. This problem comes some where in the gauge board or power distribution. With as common as this is I am very surprised there isn't more info on it.
 

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In my case it is define pry not the ignition switch. All is good there.
I would never have picked the ignition switch either - but the sparky did! I had it back - good as new in just a few days. Whenever you're dealing with electrical faults it's best IMO to go to a pro? :)

Cheers

Steve
 
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