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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
problems with my 88 si

when i had originally bought the car it had 149xxx
it is a b20a not a5 or anything else
it bogged till 4K rpms
and the clutch slipped
and all this happened after it warms up
when its cold i can get around just fine... but when it warms up it boggs down hella and the clutch starts to slip... no power till 4k then at 5500 untill 7200 its like vtec
when its cold its good on gas but when it warms up it burns through gas.... full tank= 125 miles
i am currently in the process of rebuilding it to the best of my wallet size
currenly have a new clutch and flywheel
new plugs
wires
tps
header back exhaust
hollowed out the cat to find all the shit in the middle was melted
new oil filter
fuel filter
dizzy
valve cover gasket
btw the old one was hard as plastic
the oil pan gasket is too just havent replaced it yet
there is a shit ton of oil and sludge on the back of the motor and on the undercarrage
the old clutch was worn uneven as shit
the pressure plate was heat scorn like a mother f**k
so was the flywheel
the springs on the clutch were shrunk... they rattled when i shook it
also it had a made in usa stamp on it

another thing the car used to have a toggle switch for the fuel pump
it was ghetto as hell

if the car ran longer than 5 minutes i could take the key all the way out and it would still run and drive no problem.... except for the steering wheel lock lol

i have a few more issues i will post up later when i remember
and a build thread when i get more pics

if anyone has any helpfull info that would be awesome
thanks
 

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every problem your car has is because you beat the ever living shit out of it

you should NEVER rev an engine before its fully warmed up. EVER

you should NEVER drop the clutch, in ANY gear

you should NEVER rev an engine that has trouble codes
you should NEVER go heavy on the throttle if there's trouble codes
you shouldn't be driving the car AT ALL with the codes that you have

your gas mileage problem and shitting running conditions problem is because of all 3 of your trouble codes.
code 1 = o2 sensor
code 7 = tps
code 13 = baro sensor

b20a without an a5 or anything means its a jdm b20a, the japanese version of the b20a5

preludes have ONE headeR, NOT HEADERS

why in the world would you replace the distributor (dizzy as you call it) if there is nothing wrong with it? stupid

clutch is worn unevenly because you drive it like an idiot
the pressure plate is heated because you drive it like an idiot
the flywheel is heated because you drive it like an idiot
the clutch disc springs are collapsed because you drive it like an idiot

fix what is broken, dont bother touching things that aren't broken.
that means fix the issues causing the codes first, then fix the clutch related parts, then worry about the oil leaks at a later date if you so choose.
and do some maintainance on it: valve lash adjustment with feeler guages, idle adjustment, ignition timing adjustment with a timing light, etc etc etc
 

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wow pwned....little harsh tho
little harsh? lmao, this kid winds his car out to 7500 (which is impossible with a 7200 rev limit) when it isnt even fully warmed up AND while it has 3 trouble codes all of which are extremely important sensors that the ecu requires for proper running conditions. he deserves to get his liscense pulled and have his car parted out to the needy, well whats left of it thats useable at least, if ANY of it is even useable anymore

its like knowlingly skydiving with a broken parachute and a pocket full of impact sensitive nuclear bombs and expecting everything to work out just peachy
 

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OT HOMO
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little harsh? lmao, this kid winds his car out to 7500 (which is impossible with a 7200 rev limit) when it isnt even fully warmed up AND while it has 3 trouble codes all of which are extremely important sensors that the ecu requires for proper running conditions. he deserves to get his liscense pulled and have his car parted out to the needy, well whats left of it thats useable at least, if ANY of it is even useable anymore

its like knowlingly skydiving with a broken parachute and a pocket full of impact sensitive nuclear bombs and expecting everything to work out just peachy
ahahahahaha....moto you just made my day....if you have to dump the clutch to chirp tires thats also sad...so ima second that pull of the dl...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
every problem your car has is because you beat the ever living shit out of it

you should NEVER rev an engine before its fully warmed up. EVER

you should NEVER drop the clutch, in ANY gear

you should NEVER rev an engine that has trouble codes
you should NEVER go heavy on the throttle if there's trouble codes
you shouldn't be driving the car AT ALL with the codes that you have

your gas mileage problem and shitting running conditions problem is because of all 3 of your trouble codes.
code 1 = o2 sensor
code 7 = tps
code 13 = baro sensor

b20a without an a5 or anything means its a jdm b20a, the japanese version of the b20a5

preludes have ONE headeR, NOT HEADERS

why in the world would you replace the distributor (dizzy as you call it) if there is nothing wrong with it? stupid

clutch is worn unevenly because you drive it like an idiot
the pressure plate is heated because you drive it like an idiot
the flywheel is heated because you drive it like an idiot
the clutch disc springs are collapsed because you drive it like an idiot

fix what is broken, dont bother touching things that aren't broken.
that means fix the issues causing the codes first, then fix the clutch related parts, then worry about the oil leaks at a later date if you so choose.
and do some maintainance on it: valve lash adjustment with feeler guages, idle adjustment, ignition timing adjustment with a timing light, etc etc etc
well genius you unusefull advise really is kinda gay
before you start saying bullshit that you dont know wait till i post more on the car


i paid 250$ for a "ROLLING CHASSIS"
the car came with the motor and everything thats wrong with it because of the previos owner.... some 15 year old asian kid who couldnt fix shit to save his life... since i owned it i put 12 miles on it... my attempts were to see what the motor had left to see if i could use it for a few days... it overheated twice and leaked oil faster than it could be put back in so i decided h22 which i am saving up for motor mounts and a list of things that are going to happen to this car... i am posting this thread to try and figure out if i can get a couple hundred more miles out of this motor while i wait for the parts i want to get in

thanks and have a nice day
inx front clip and rhd conversion
 

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OT HOMO
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well genius you unusefull advise really is kinda gay
before you start saying bullshit that you dont know wait till i post more on the car


i paid 250$ for a "ROLLING CHASSIS"
the car came with the motor and everything thats wrong with it because of the previos owner.... some 15 year old asian kid who couldnt fix shit to save his life... since i owned it i put 12 miles on it... my attempts were to see what the motor had left to see if i could use it for a few days... it overheated twice and leaked oil faster than it could be put back in so i decided h22 which i am saving up for motor mounts and a list of things that are going to happen to this car... i am posting this thread to try and figure out if i can get a couple hundred more miles out of this motor while i wait for the parts i want to get in

thanks and have a nice day
inx front clip and rhd conversion
inx is ghey just buy a accord....rhd on the other hand is sexy
 

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There seems to be an influx of shit talking idiots on PP since the last time i was around.

Kid your better off parting out your car for more than you payed for it. It will never work correctly with you driving it, no matter how much money you spend. Sell your car, you dont deserve a prelude.
 

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an rhd conversion has got to be the most useless waste of time and money. by the time you find the parts and mod the car the parts and time are probably more expensive than importing a rhd. my .02

drop and NTK o2 sensor in there and will fix the bogging and probably a few other issues as well.
 

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dump clutch and chirp tires, can someone explain? lol
not letting off the gas when you shift.
in this case, going full throttle in 2nd, then when its time to shift, pushing the clutch in and shifting it to 3rd but staying at full throttle the whole time, then letting the clutch out as fast as possible. then you're still at full throttle and bouncing off the rev limiter when it goes into 3rd, and dumping the clutch is basically just letting it out as fast as possible, hoping that the clutch locks and burns the tires from the momentum of the engine
 
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