Honda Prelude Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
'97 Type SH 2.2 VTi 185BHP
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've checked all the existing threads on this and other Prelude / Honda forums, but still getting nowhere. I've swapped out both the Master and Slave Clutch cylinders, and started the process of bleeding.

I've been following the process of:
  • Pull clutch pedal up (bleeder is closed)
  • Open bleeder
  • Push clutch to the floor (it stays there, no pressure)
  • Close the bleeder
  • Repeat...
I'm only opening the bleeder about a 1/4 turn. When I've pushed the clutch pedal down, there is no change in the position of the fluid in the attached tube on the bleeder. I nudge the bleeder valve open a little more, and get fluid flowing a bit, but then it starts to backflow a bit. Does this mean I've got air coming in somewhere, or I'm opening the bleeder too far, causing the fluid to be sucked back in? I've been at this for at least an hour, and not gaining any pressure in the pedal. Fluid is getting out eventually, as I have had to top up the reservoir a couple of times. I've checked the hard lines on both the Master and Slave, and there are no leaks or bubbles around either, nor on the dampener. The reservoir hose connected to the Master isn't on super tight, the hose clamp seems to add no benefit as I can still pull the hose off with ease, but there is no fluid leaking there either. Sometimes bubbles seem to escape from the bleeder valve itself from the threads when the valve is opened a bit. I did not bench bleed the Master cylinder. The tube I've got attached to the bleeder isn't going to the floor, it's snaked below the radiator fan hub, and then back up and down into a bottle. Could this cause the backflow issue? The tube in the bottle is submerged in fluid.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

·
Registered
JDM 4th Gen Prelude 2.2 Vtec Turbo
Joined
·
285 Posts
The way you are doing it should be fine, though bleeding the clutch system on ludes always gives me problems.

The last time I did it, I got an apprentice (11 year old son) to operate the pedal, and I had your second and third steps swapped around, i.e. have the clutch system pressurised with the pedal, open the bleeder and then quickly close it again. Rinse and repeat.

I also cover the bleeder threads with grease to prevent any air getting back in there.
 

·
Registered
'97 Type SH 2.2 VTi 185BHP
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I managed to make some progress with a change of tact.

I moved the bleeder bottle to below the bleeder valve. I shoved it in the gap between the fans, where there is a gap in the splash guard at the bottom of the car. I then followed the same pattern, but I made sure to only open the bleeder for about a second. Slowly, I started to get pressure in the pedal. At this point, I'm no longer getting any bubbles come out in the fluid, but there were a lot of microbubbles towards the end, probably from all the pumping of the system. This all took about 2 hours by myself, moving between the bleeder and clutch pedal.

I turned over the engine for a bit, and tried putting it in gear, which I was able to do, so I think there is sufficient pressure now. The engagement point is a lower than it used to be, even though I adjusted the Master cylinder rod to be the same length as the one it replaced, but the engagement point feels a lot more obvious than it before.

I'm going to let it sit for a few hours, then do a couple more rounds of bleeding just to check, then just need to adjust the clutch freeplay. Will take it for a drive round town to confirm it feels good.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,804 Posts
I will either use a vacuum bleeder to get it started, and pump by hand. Or put a hose from the slave cylinder bleeder into a 1/4 full bottle of brake fluid and with a full reservoir - start pumping. As mentioned, these always give trouble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
when i first bought my lude, i literally dropped thousands of dollars into her to get her going. and after replacing a bunch of wiring and fixing multiple sensors and getting a new throttle body and fixing the ecu and so so much more. i finally isolated it down to the clutch, it wasn’t catching gear. i replaced the clutch, master and slave cylinder and bled her more times than i can count and still she didn’t catch gear. i was so fucking confused but i finally realized that the only thing i hadn’t changed was the clutch line, connecting the master and slave cylinder. i ordered a custom made one, bled her, and go figure, she finally caught gear and took off. sorry if that’s long, just wanted to explain my whole situation and i hope that helps boss!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
The engagement point is a lower than it used to be, even though I adjusted the Master cylinder rod to be the same length as the one it replaced, but the engagement point feels a lot more obvious than it before.
Rather than adjusting the rod to be what it was before, adjust the rod until it doesn't want to turn easily by hand, that should be the correct position. I just did mine 2 months ago following a write-up, but can't find the one I used that talked about this adjustment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
716 Posts
I've checked all the existing threads on this and other Prelude / Honda forums, but still getting nowhere. I've swapped out both the Master and Slave Clutch cylinders, and started the process of bleeding.

I've been following the process of:
  • Pull clutch pedal up (bleeder is closed)
  • Open bleeder
  • Push clutch to the floor (it stays there, no pressure)
  • Close the bleeder
  • Repeat...
I'm only opening the bleeder about a 1/4 turn. When I've pushed the clutch pedal down, there is no change in the position of the fluid in the attached tube on the bleeder. I nudge the bleeder valve open a little more, and get fluid flowing a bit, but then it starts to backflow a bit. Does this mean I've got air coming in somewhere, or I'm opening the bleeder too far, causing the fluid to be sucked back in? I've been at this for at least an hour, and not gaining any pressure in the pedal. Fluid is getting out eventually, as I have had to top up the reservoir a couple of times. I've checked the hard lines on both the Master and Slave, and there are no leaks or bubbles around either, nor on the dampener. The reservoir hose connected to the Master isn't on super tight, the hose clamp seems to add no benefit as I can still pull the hose off with ease, but there is no fluid leaking there either. Sometimes bubbles seem to escape from the bleeder valve itself from the threads when the valve is opened a bit. I did not bench bleed the Master cylinder. The tube I've got attached to the bleeder isn't going to the floor, it's snaked below the radiator fan hub, and then back up and down into a bottle. Could this cause the backflow issue? The tube in the bottle is submerged in fluid.

Anyone has?
Do you have a Mityvac? If you don't then go buy one and you can back bleed the clutch fluid system as long as you know that you don't have anymore leaks in the system. You say anything about checking the clutch fluid line, this line could be leaking and needs replacement. Also, when you open this system to the atmosphere it with take quite a bit to get all the air out of the system. This is why I would use a vacuum whether it's a hand pump vacuum or power vacuum it's super helpful. Harbor freight sells hand pumps for a good price. Let us know what happens.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top