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Discussion Starter #61
Went ahead and fitted another one of the gutted IAB plates, making it three- one functional, one with no valves and one gutted. Not an ideal setup and will be turbulent but I am keen to see if it makes a difference as is.

Out with the old:





In with the new:




Checked clearances. Was not clearing the stock fuel rail supply hose (just needed a little "adjustment") and the vacuum booster line for the brake master cylinder was in the way. MAP sensor was close to to the bonnet but still enough room.






Stacked!






Expectations were not huge for this mod but there has been a dramatic change in air fuel ratio, so much so that I can't drive to test the intake! Went for a tuning session and air fuel ratio was 14.5:1 at 5k rpm at WOT! Increased fuel pressure to 60psi and then went for another run, ~13.8-14.2:1 at 5k rpm... So I am in for a new base map. Sounds like it will be Neptune instead of Crome (tuner has switched to Neptune). Planning for IAB's to open ~3.4k, Vtec at ~4.3k (will check cross over on dyno but I think 4.3k will be linear; current is 4.7k). Should be good to see what effect the stacks have. Only downside is it will be a different dyno to my usual but I am told it is a mustang dyno.
 

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From what I can see, you are going from an upper plenum with the ports there, to an opened up plate, and then the 2 plates that have the ports, but are flat at the top?

There must be a huge amount of turbulence in there, and on a stock sized engine, the increased size and goofy flow are probably just hurting things. If you wanted to try a bit more size, I would just use another spacer with the valves removed, as the flow will still be good, but you increase the volume.
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
From what I can see, you are going from an upper plenum with the ports there, to an opened up plate, and then the 2 plates that have the ports, but are flat at the top?

There must be a huge amount of turbulence in there, and on a stock sized engine, the increased size and goofy flow are probably just hurting things. If you wanted to try a bit more size, I would just use another spacer with the valves removed, as the flow will still be good, but you increase the volume.
Indeed the flow will be very turbulent but it did not appear to have a negative effect on the way the car drove. And the air fuel ratio went lean to the point that I could not compensate for it via increasing fuel pressure- so it appeared to be beneficial (more air). I will still work on refining the setup but it will have to do for now. Also, having another spacer with the valves removed would increase runner length and also shift the power band lower in the rpm range. Might be worth a try but then my peak hp would be ~6500rpm.lol.

Update:

Some more pics post intake manifold changes. Also gave the carbon bonnet a new clear coat layer due to some sun fade and pealing.







Took the current setup in to be retuned to sort out the lean air fuel ratio. Attempted a base run but the tuner let go at ~5500rpm due to the lean issue (made solid power either way).





Base run:


A new Neptune base map was setup on the P72 ECU.
Tuned the low and high cams for max brake torque:

Low cam to 6500rpm:
http://youtu.be/rhFwE-UY2-8

High cam from 3700rpm:
http://youtu.be/HArLW2z3ErA

15 odd runs later the final tune:
Dyno tuning 1992 Honda Prelude (BB4)- Neptune P72 - YouTube

I don't actually have a dyno plot but peak whp was 179whp (Mustang dyno; tuner said it reads low by 10-12% relative to other dynos). So that is a drop of 15whp compared to the previous tune on a different dyno...lol. Waiting to get some 1/4 mile runs done to see how this "loss" translates into the real world. Car feels really good, very smooth power delivery right to redline but I do feel there is more power to be extracted with some ignition advance + extra fuel (justified in part because the tuner did not manage to match the torque curve from the base run- i.e. this tune is very safe).

IAB's were set to open at 3400rpm, linear Vtec cross-over was at 4500rpm, rev cut at 7500 (no point going further!), launch control at 5500rpm and I decided to opt for ignition cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Got around to the strip and the new Neptune tune's 134wkw is likely true...lol. Only got 5 runs done with a best of 14.67 at 94.55(152km/h) ( ranged from 14.6.14.8 ). After two high 14.7 runs I advanced timing by 1 degree and increased fuel pressure by 2psi and that took off ~0.1sec.


Vids of a couple of runs:
http://youtu.be/GNWZ6xGdtQQ

http://youtu.be/BDJ2IK4HDoc

A little annoyed by the gradual loss in trap speed. With stock rims I was at 98mph, with the BBS 16's I have fallen to 96mph and now 94mph with the new tune. So it is likely that the 3rd IAB plate has messed with top end but if it has it is barely noticeable. Effect I was after was shifting peak hp up by ~300rpm which has occurred. Might need to make a new gutted upper plenum and do some more grinding to smooth off the 3rd plate.

Current tyres are gone so I need to choose which set of semi-slicks that are on hand will get fitted. I am also considering a run on stock 15's again since it was with them that I trapped my highest speed and fastest time, wheel weight and overall rim-tyre circumference effects no doubt...lol.
 

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Can you run a drag radial or true slick on your track there? If so, I would suggest to get a set of 15" slicks and just run them at the track. I went with the 23" M&H, and within 3 runs was down to a 1.8 60 foot, and I am sure with a bit more heat in them would have dropped it even lower. The general rule is .1 at the 60 ft is .2 at the big end, so it could make a large difference for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Can you run a drag radial or true slick on your track there? If so, I would suggest to get a set of 15" slicks and just run them at the track. I went with the 23" M&H, and within 3 runs was down to a 1.8 60 foot, and I am sure with a bit more heat in them would have dropped it even lower. The general rule is .1 at the 60 ft is .2 at the big end, so it could make a large difference for you.
I would love to get a set of slicks but unfortunately they are strictly prohibited for the event I attend at my local strip (but there are some more extreme events do allow them of course). Things are busy at work otherwise I would have a better set of tyres on already...

All going well I'll do another drag session tomorrow night. I have reverted to my Crome tune which feels more torquey but I cant say for sure that the speedo climbs any faster. I will aim to do 1-2 runs with the Crome tune and then I'll remove the 3rd IAB plate and see how that fairs. Most likely it is that 3rd plate's turbulence that is knocking off top end lol.
 

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Hmm, what are the tire restrictions? If you can run a DOT legal type drag radial would still help I guess. Not sure what kind of equivalent you have down there hanging off the earth though.

The most common are the BFG drag radial, or Nitto which I think is the 555?

I was cutting 2.0-2.1 60 ft time on the BFG in a 205-50-15.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Street legal tyres only essentially. Something like Nitto NT555R's would be fine. I would be keen to try something like that out just to see what improvement that makes.

Picked up a Tanabe lower rear arm brace for a good price and decided why not.




Also swapped out the gutted IAB plate for the other version I made. Bum dyno says the fully gutted one felt better.

Think there is more work to be done here but I should really just order a spacer from Rosko to get it done properly.lol.

And don't laugh but I stumbled upon some 3" inlet Euro mufflers that I could not pass up. Guess I like the unique tip even though it looks a tad odd on the car (they also sound really good; I will sell one of them) lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Cheers! I try my best.lol

I feel guilty for the lack of time to spend on the car but I do manage to get a few things done here and there.

Picked up a few rare gems, Mugen sides, wing and Hiro rear lips:







Sorted out what is the best bang for buck datalogging ever! Picked up a Samsung Tab 3 which I plan to use as a dedicated dash unit which will also make all accessory gauges redundant.lol. Also sorted a Bluetooth module for the P72 ECU and obtained Tunerview for Neptune (also available for Crome) and now I am speechless, go back a few years and this technology would cost you a fortune (thanks android! Also a link for reference).



The look I want:

The look I have to settle with in the mean time lol (also picked up a Sparco steering wheel and Momo bosskit):


A random snipet of the datalog capability:

What can you log you ask, everything including:
Date
Time
Timestamp
ECT
IAT
O2
MAP
TPS
RPM
LoFRow
HiFRow COL
SPEED
INJ
PWM
Ignition Map Value
Actual Ignition
BAT
PA
GEAR
Output 1
Boost Control Output 1
Output 2
Full Throttle Launch Active
Full Throttle Shift Active
Boost Control Output 2
Boost Control Output 3
Output1 Input Active
Clutch Input
Secondary Maps
Output2 Input Active
PWM Hi Active
VTECMap
FuelCut (Bit2 OR 3)
Also FuelCut
PSP
VTP
Service Connector
AC Switch
Brake Switch
AC Clutch
Evap Purge
Alternator Control
FAN Out
IAB Out VTEC Out
O2 Heater Out MIL Out
Ignition Cut Active
Anti-Theft Active
On Board Logging Active
Fuel Pump Relay Out
Starter Signal Switch
ELD EGR/D12
B6 Latitude
Longitude
Attitude
Heading
Accuracy
G-Force X(Left/Right)
G-Force Y(Accel/Decel)
G-Force Z(Up/Down)
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Some progress. Had some annoying issues- speed sensor started working intermittently- figured it must be some wiring issue. Also had the rpm signal cut out random at the worse times (going uphill on the motorway...) and then the engine still runs because I am in gear but there is nothing there when you give it gas. Started by replacing my ignition switch, then checked the speed sensor. Somehow the sensor bolts had completely worked them selves loose. Retorqued the bolts but still no luck so I new sensor is in. Still not sure about the random engine cut out... Only happened a few times at random and everything returns to normal 5-10seconds post cutting out...

New harness in with all the immobilizer hacks.


Tried the Dunlop O3Gs but they came to an end fast (to be fair they were really old and dry) and still gripped well but not good enough. Figured Nitto NT555Rs will be worth a try.



Found some time to get some tyre fitment done- daily rim and tyres and drag rim and tyres sorted:




Nittos on. Unfortunately I need some 5mm spacers for the rim to clear the suspension...


Went for a drive to wear in/test the Nittos and took some snaps:















Some say I need more low, I think I have just enough ground clearance haha.


Still got a bit of a wait to go before a drag session but I am keen to see if I can get somewhere with the drag radials. It will just be a matter of not breaking something...
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
Well the M2A4 met an untimely end.

Did a fairly normal first to second pull- no trouble, then while turning at low speeds I hear what sounded like a fender rubbing. Pulled over, checked everywhere including the engine bay, all looked fine. Did a first gear pull to shake it off, seemed fine. Then as I slowly take off at a traffic light the gearbox grinds to a halt while making lovely noises.

Decided I was not getting stuck in on a high speed road so I tried first, nope, second, nope, third maybe with some heavy clutch riding. Seemed to want to just grab and lock up if I let the clutch out but it was moving..... Managed to drive ~5k kms to get it home, slight trail of oil drips...

Long story short my M2A4 went from open diff to no diff haha. Tidy hole punched though the case and lots of metal inside and out...

The fix- T2W4 with ACT clutch and pressure plate (HA3-HDSS):


Was not expecting to be back here so soon but hey...

Could not pry the powersteering sensor out- locked up. Will loop the fluids but not sure how that will affect power steering function.

Humble M2A4

Converted to LSD by the looks of it, bar is gone haha.

Step up from last time, engine support bar







Was never really happy with the OEM Exedy but it has given good service, no slippage.






T2W4 ready



Clutch is unused but old and rusty...





Resurfaced stock flywheel this time. Really wish I had got a lighter one already but I had not planned to do this task yet...





And back in place- same day as removal.


Better look at the M2A4 carnage, seems strange that it broke here only a week or so after fitting a cheap ebay speed sensor.


And the job is done. Discovered right at the end that the slave cylinder's mounting holes were stripped... Dam. Rethreaded and used longer bolts and it seems it will hold.




Perfect match.

First impression- my old box was really old! Shifting now feels really firm, heavy and slow. The old box let me just throw it through the gears haha. Shorter gear ratios in 2nd and 3rd did not do much but I need to shift a little sooner as expected, sitting ~50rpm higher at freeway speeds in 5th. Clutch grabs and does not like letting go and has good pedal feel too. Looping the powersteering means I have little to no powersteering now. Heavy steering is heavy- might end up deleting the powersteering in the quest for weight reduction- and now I have a good excuse- it is barely working haha. And then there is LSD. My first LSD box and lets just say corner acceleration will never be the same again.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Ok so the trans started to grind in basically all gears! Figured the most likely culprit was the trans oil. Picked up some OEM MTF and that fixed it up but there is some damage to synchros now.... Bizarre that the M2A4 survived on that trans oil for so long... Anyhow, nothing but Honda MTF from here on in...

Rereplaced the sump gasket... Cheap gaskets are nasty.

Oil change + HAMP oil filter for more oil pressure




And to wear everything in, a decent cruise:






And a quick muffler clip. I got the tuner to set up the launch control with the ability to disable it if I create a break in the VTM wire. I still need to sort that but the muffler sounds amazing for 5.5k rpm haha.

Muffler noise: https://youtu.be/8aEHGlYc-uI
Engine noise: https://youtu.be/U89gMFIRfcA
 

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Did you discard the worn AEM wideband sensor yet? I would be interested in buying the plug end form you, not the sensors, just the plug end on the end of the wiring lol.


Probably too late but I figured I would ask anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
Ah haha yea those are gone... I have two in use at the moment so when they go out I'll hold onto them haha.

Quick drag session done. No proper time slips, just 1/4mile time and trap. A bit puzzled as to how I manage to run slower with drag radials and T2W4 + LSD than with random tyres + M2A4 haha. Best run was 14.6 @ 98mph. Drag radials were ok, they actually seemed more grippy on the street than the strip but I suspect the track was not that well prepped.
1/4mile run:
https://youtu.be/Jt7G2h1c-qI
"new gearbox" same issues with second gear synchros...
https://youtu.be/BuBy6kNR5Lk

A few more exhaust clips- this time with the Powerpro Euro muffler.
Sounds from the front bumper:
https://youtu.be/KAnkmXr3_hM
Rear muffler angle:
https://youtu.be/pqJxUFYaWM4
https://youtu.be/uFR1tpLR498





Wheel toe was out on both wheels- I had to fit new steering rack ends the day before drags and the best I could do was to "align by eye"... Went back and tweaked the alignment and now it seems fine, had toe out on both front wheels haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Not too much on the cards because time is limited at the moment...
Picked up a new titanium tip muffler- 3" inlet.




Still not quite ready to get the exhaust sorted... so some more pics will need to do.




















 

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Discussion Starter #77
Some maintenance and some "light tuneup" haha.

Installed some new lost motion assemblies (PCB305's) along with some EuroR camshafts and Skunk2 Pro cam gears (1' advance on intake, 1' retard on exhaust to begin with- life is too short to run stock cam gear settings haha).











So it begins...
























Test drive vid haha:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfCUa1ovppc

Cams feel amazing and it seems my tune has not gone out by too much either. Advancing the intake cam might not be the best as the air fuel ratio is riching out heaps above 7k rpm (~11.5:1). Something to fine tune.
 

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Sounds awesome man ....wanna come to CT and install some Cams for me :lol:
lol
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
I'm rather efficient with cams so don't tempt me haha.

Some drag time to wear the cams in:



Same run different views:
Cabin view:
https://youtu.be/kfkyUNN61Bs
Dash view:
https://youtu.be/wjGugEm75X8

And no chance for anything faster, 14.5 was the best run...

Tweaked cam gears but any change from where I was increased 1/4mile time by ~0.2sec.



 

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Discussion Starter #80
Living up to the thread's title, long haul.

Update, only been a few years since the last one.

Photobucket really knows how to mess with the system, 2016 no photos, 2017 photos, 2018watermarked, 2019.... I give up there.

Where to start, I guess 2016 somewhere.

Fitted my Mugen side skirts, still need to work out when I will get to painting them. Still need to fit the Mugen wing.









Picked up an auto slushbox, does this qualify me for a 4WD in 2WD mode?



Arouse the senses with:





S2k seats + BB4 seats = BB4K seats.













Done BB4K











Something a little different, carbon fiber work. Yes, not a perfect finish and yes my first time handling it but I like it.lol





What was my template you ask, cardboard.... haha.





Canards - because race car.







Reworking and refining













New Tablet for Tunerview:











Truck delivered stone chip ran on me, out with the windscreen. Yes, DIY created removal tools.





As seen in 2 Fast 2 Furious - Roman Pearce:



Glass out



Glass in



Finally got the 3" mandrel exhaust done with help from a Lude brother.

























Slight tweak of a new valve cover I picked up:













 
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