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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Haha yea. I was stuck between Milano red, Mirror black or Metallic Blue pearl.lol.

Got most of the body panels back on, still a bit of buffing work left to clean up the clear coat. Still need to sort out the headlights too, got an old faded one fitted on the left and near new one on the right.


Also picked up this little gem to round off the new look.


Best bay shots are those without the bonnet.



Should get another photo session done soon...
 

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Car looks good, I need to fix some rust and re-spray mine when I get the chance.

Did you do the work all yourself?

Oh, and I agree on using the front water neck for that temp sensor, the USDM engines actually had a switch threaded in at that spot, for the fans to run when the key is off.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I am somewhat paranoid with letting anyone else work on my cars (bad past experiences/costs way too much otherwise), hence I do everything myself. And if something goes wrong I can only blame myself.lol.

I wish I had a spray booth but I am not that far, yet.lol. Can get a decent finish spraying in open air but the clear coat layer is touch and go for ~30min till set.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Slight update:

Developed a rather annoying issue. Car was basically undrivable. Had severe shudder left to right under acceleration. Ended up fitting the energy suspension front mount insert and this dramatically improved it but did not fix the issue.






Then ended up picking up Innovative 75a mounts. Only fit the left mount so far but the engine feels way more solid, particularly when on power and then hitting the clutch.




After some research I figured the most likely cause of the shudder was the inner cvs. Surely enough the left inner boot was torn.


Ordered new left and right drive axles only for the shipping company to loose the left axle... I had booked the car in for drag racing assuming the new axles would be fitted by then... Right hand shaft came in on time, but did not fix the issue...




Wound up tracing a guy who was parting out a manual BB4. He offered to help fit a new left inner CV. Got both cars together, stripped them down, swapped inner CVs and then discovered the root of the issue.lol




I somehow killed a roller. All the roller bearings were nicely distributed through out the inner cv, lots of metal shavings...

Went racing the next day...lol. Had issues keeping the power down in first and second, some runs were better. Still cant break through the 14.4 second mark despite shedding ~35kg and adding the 70mm throttle... Counting on the exhaust now. Best run was 14.44 @ 156km/h with a 60'foot of 2.23.







Day after racing I gave the dude a hand stripping down his BB4. Harvesting basically everything but focus was the engine, ABS system and 2ws.






Picked up a spare dizzy and alternator.lol
 

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Drop down the 60'.

ESP or Innovative traction bar, lsd tranny with a higher final drive and some drag slicks will get you into the 13's.

Great build though, I like everything that you have done so far. Keep it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Cheers. 2.2sec 60'foot is my best yet... lol. Running cheap road tyres and there is a lot of give on the rear shocks, which would not be helping holding the power down upfront. Keeping my eyes open for an LSD box, planning to get R888s, but I have not got so far as looking for traction bars. Mods like adjustable suspension and traction bars require "certification" where I am based, which cost a heap of money... Also require re-certification everytime something changes (ride height change by >5%, camber change, exhaust change etc...). So I'll avoid that for as long as possible and once all the "boltons" are done I can consider it again.lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Quick update, removed the IAB valves, made a bunch of "custom light weight spacers" to fill the thread normally occupied by the IABs.lol



Innovative 75A mounts fitted:









The rear mount was gone, trans-mount was on thin ice... Salute!


75a mounts have HEAPs of vibration at 1500rpm, above that it is ok so not too bad a tradeoff. I kept the front mount with Energy mount insert but I don't really need it anymore.

This cheeky bolt worked its way out... only noticed it while doing a scan through the bay post a few 1/4mile runs... If I lost that bolt I would have lost hydraulics to the throw bearing and hence clutch...


Ran a few 14.5 1/4miles, and a couple of crappy 14.8s... Not sure removing the IAB valves did me any favors down the strip but intake noise sure took a climb in the right direction. Solid mounts made for smooth quick shifting and there was less wheel hop but no dramatic change to ET or 60'foot...

 

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If you just removed the plate completely, you drastically chopped the volume of the intake. If you can, get a spacer plate, or hollow out an old IAB plate to put back in there and get the volume back up, while keeping good flow.

I am not sure a totally hollowed out intake will be best for your displacement and stock cams, but you could give it a shot since you seem to have a few extra manifolds to play with.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Yea, from what I read it seems most either gut the IABs, add in two plates or completely remove the IABs- which I assumed meant removed the whole plate.lol. Either way I always wanted to try bolting the plenum to the manifold. Figured it would reduce runner length a little, wasn't sure what effect the volume loss would have. I think I would need to get a retune to actually have benefits from removing the plate. My tune was up in the air- had massive smoke clouds behind me until ~5.5krpm and acceleration felt hollow however I could still muster 14.5 down the 1/4mile.

I have now gone for the other extreme, one plate with working IABs and one without the IAB valves. So increased runner length with working IABs. Will try this out on the strip but first impression is that it feels much better than without the plate!





Had to do a fair bit of trimming to get the two plates to mate. I wanted to keep the IAB valves in the lower segment. I threaded the holes on the sides and bolted them shut. Trimmed off the protruding section at the front to clear the valve mechanism.





Before swapping out:



Adding in two plates:


Done


I think I like my low end torque.lol. Removing the IAB plate bumped noise up but the acceleration literally felt hollow below 5.5k rpm.

Also ventured down an odd path...

Yea, so I am not planning on towing a camper van but I did however see an opportunity to stiffen my rear springs on the cheap... Had too much give on the rear during launches, so- Out with the old

And in with the new:

Planned to fit them to the yellow honda access springs but the spring gap was 37mm- the acceptable range was 39mm-52mm... Determined to try them out, I grabbed a set of stock rear springs and went to work.

Noticed my rears had been bottoming out


Done

Why slanted down, cause drag car?
Rears are nice and stiff. A little high in the rear but I could get use to that.lol

Got a chance to also do some 1/4mile runs with the new setup:
14.47 at 157km/h
Traction is overrated- 16.3 at 157km/h...lol

Next I'll try a IAB plate with a gutted plate.
Comparing bolting the plenum to manifold vs the two IAB plates:
On average:
14.6-8 at 155km/h (96mph) with no plates.
14.47-6 at 157km/h (97mph) with two IAB plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Wideband gave out...



Picked up a VS2 tensioner and EGR block off plate from Rosko


EGR delete:






Replaced a rock solid dizzy o-ring and picked up some spares



Some more time spent on the 1/4mile:




 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Got an opportunity to get onto the dyno again. Was not expecting much over last time given that not a lot has changed. Some decent power hidden away in the end.




Seems I could drop Vtec engagement to ~4200rpm. Loving that torque curve.

The runs:
http://youtu.be/xZbjqcg0020

http://youtu.be/PkC52Jncgkc

Power when stock (New Iridium plugs = only change):
159whp @ 6800rpm with ~ 600wnm @ 5400rpm

Current power:
194whp @ 7000rpm with ~ 680wnm @ 5000-6500rpm

Hence, a net gain of 26wkw/35whp following (done on the same dyno, 1.5 years apart):

Custom CAI with Blox velocity stack and filter
70mm Skunk2 T/B- port matched 70mm tapering to 65mm.
Mildly ported P13 intake manifold with two IAB plates- one functional and one without IAB valves and Blox phenolic gasket.
Rosko EGR blockoff plate + EGR delete
Vision ignition leads
D1 Spec FPR (fuel pressure ~53psi no vacuum)
Hytech replica header (no collector mod)
Custom 2.5" exhaust (no cat, 1 resonator, mandrel but in sections welded together)
Exedy OEM clutch (no gain expected)
Aircon delete
SAFCII, AEM UEGO and Crome tuned P72 (Vtec at 4700, unsure of IAB engagement rpm; further tuned using wideband, SAFCII and FPR as extra mods were made).
And 16" BBS RG rims (fitted with no name tyres.lol).

Still more in it, should break 200whp with just boltons without too much trouble.

Picked up some lightly used semi-slicks- Dunlop 03G 205 55 16:

Once I get those on I think I might just be able to get a 13.99 pass.lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Thanks. Indeed, the engine is unopened and has a heap of kms/mileage behind it. Valve stem seals are showing signs of leakage, particularly on the exhaust side but aside from that all still seems well. Fairly confident I will crack 200whp with just boltons on this dyno without too much hassle.
 

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Looking good, nice to see the gains comin, and better tires will help for sure!

For some reason I thought you were somewhere other than N.Z. lol. I was there last year, spent almost 2 weeks cruising around the North island. Had tons of fun, and would love to go back again some day!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Looking good, nice to see the gains comin, and better tires will help for sure!

For some reason I thought you were somewhere other than N.Z. lol. I was there last year, spent almost 2 weeks cruising around the North island. Had tons of fun, and would love to go back again some day!
Haha nice, small world! Indeed, I am all the way down in the big NZ.

Progress is slow but we have now gone through the peak of winter and hopefully the weather picks up soon.

Some more progress on the intake manifold tweaking. Still not quite sure how the final set up will look but I have a few ideas in the air.











Badly leaking Vtec solenoid gasket has finally been replaced.


 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Progress update:

Left front sway bar mount has torn...

Picked up lots of new parts:
16's with used R888's.

Hiro eye lids


And Energy rear trailing bushes, powersteering pump rebuild kit, Gates OEM timing belt and water pump kit & Kaizenspeed VSII tensioner.



In the quest for more weight reduction. Removed the lower portion of the door inserts, removed the aircon related plastic bits and removed the cloth covered metal liners (they weight a fair bit) from front and rear trays.

And got some new speakers- cause on sale.lol.




Also tidied it up with a retrim.





Parcel tray cover gone



Drew up some blueprints for a new intake pipe. Wanted something that progressively staggered from the 70mm/2.75" T/B to 3.5". I cut the pipe I had to keep the 2.75" bend with breather section. Then stepped to 76mm, 80mm and finally 89mm pipe with a 3.5" Blox velocity stack and filter.
Current pipe:

New staggered rig:


Had to do some extensive enlargement to fit the 3.5" pipe. Also used expanding foam to give a "soft" edge for pipe contact/support.


 

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If that Gates timing belt kit came with a water pump stamped "CHINA" I would go get another one from Honda. The one I got in my kit from Gates started weeping after about 30,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
If that Gates timing belt kit came with a water pump stamped "CHINA" I would go get another one from Honda. The one I got in my kit from Gates started weeping after about 30,000 miles.
Dam if only I checked here earlier... Just fitted the new one. Only noticed when I took the water pump out of the box that it said in big letters, CHINA. :jehon:

Thanks, I'll keep an eye on it but yes I will likely need to get an OEM one in there...

Out with the old:


In with the new:




Felt bad replacing the "Japan" water pump with the Gates "China" one... I decided to keep the balance shafts operational after doing a fair bit of reading. I already have a lot of external engine vibration and removal of the balance belt would give a few wkw through the range but I don't think it is worth the risk of damaging other things (one that got me worried was oil pump feed breaking off from vibrations...).

A little worse for ware, think I need a new one:


Gave the alternator a quick tune up:


Many spares:

Did an oil change and then ran into this... drip drip.

Was clearly damaged in its previous life, likely cross threaded. Bolt does not go in by hand. Got away with it until now...
Picked up a new sump to fix the leak. Removing the baked on gasket was nothing short of a pain!




New radiator and coolant. Old one was "well worn"...




32mm double core full aluminum radiator. Light and functional.





 
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