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Discussion Starter #1
ok here's the problem:
i bought a lude, blew off the t belt and i replaced it tonite (hope i did it right and it was a B I T C H) but neways. The previous owner said he didn't hear anything when the Tbelt blew off, i believe he was at a stop (hope that no valves were bent), but i put on a new TBelt today and and turned the crank and it sounded like poo after the 3 minutes it took me to crank it up. I smelt gas once i did get it running and it was shaking nasty. I was like hhmmmm lol and didnt know what it could be. the exhaust sounded like crap and im still not sure if bent valves can cause that (???) and that is one question and then i pulled the plugs and they were really black up top. where im guessing the electrode with the GAP and wut not. there was a lil corrosion on the back of the barthat bends over for the gap and heres another question. I know it would cause the car to run like crap but could the sound be mistaked for bent valves? cuz i dont know wut bent valves exactly sounds like. i dont thinkg so just because of the exhaust sound like crap just like under the valve cover but hopefully you guys could help me decifer that. ima buy new plugs in the morning but hopefully i could get a good verdict by then
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok well i can't really afford a comp. tester right now (dead ass broke). but i found a really good sound to compare it to. I replaced the spark plugs and the engine starts just fine but it sounds like when you put your lips together and blow and stick your tongue out just a lil bit at the same time. i hope you guys can understand that lol. im pretty sure i timed it right, but the belt is a lil loose, i didn't buy a new tensioner, is that really imperative, and what is a good way to ensure that the belt is put on so it runs tight, cuz, one side (the front) is a lil loose and the back is pretty tight.
 

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you deffinitely bent at least a few valves.

as for the belt being tight, you really dont need to replace the tensioner unless the bearings in it are bad. it is not your typical spring-loaded tensioner like what most domestic vehicles use for the serpentine belt. there is a bolt for the tensioner. you need to loosen that bolt, slowly turn the crank pulley counter-clockwise until the front side of the timing belt is tight, then tighten the tensioner bolt while pushing the bolt to the left with the wrench as you tighten it(dont need to push it to the left very hard, just enough to keep it tight against the belt. too tight can wear the belt out prematurely). this will ensure a tight timing belt.

but you wont need to attempt the above until later on, cuz you cant drive the car right now anyway until you pull the head and replace the valves.
do not run the car or drive the car any more than you already have. the bent valves will damage the valve seats in the head, and possibly bend, wear or even crack the valve guides which you really dont want to do.
pull the head, replace all valves that dont completely seal, reinstall the head, THEN tighten the timing belt how i mentioned above after reinstalling the belt
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well i put on the Timing belt just to check to see if i could run the car a bit but obviously i can;t now. Im just gonna do the b20a swap. I was hoping i could get it to run maybe a month or so till i can do the swap but obviously not. im not running it or nething so nothing to worry about there. DAMN lol. if i can find a cheap GOOD head i might try and do the swap but i dont think id be able to do the swap neway. if its an easy swap??
 
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what mark did you time the motor to???

it needs to be timed with teh cams at the "Up" posotion and teh crank/flywheel mark at the "+" mark. if you use the "-" mark it will yeild that sound. if you bent a valve youd have no compression so it wouldnt run.

check the tming on the crank and the ignition timing. those are my guesses (if no bent valves)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
well i have the cams up, but i dont remember my chilton's specifying that (late night) where exactly would i find that "mark" ::feel stupid:: ill prolly work on it tomorow morning if i cant wake up early enuff. I was also thinking of advancing the timing a lil bit think that would help the valves clear a lil bit but i dont really think that would work. The car idles fine, alil high at first but thats just the FIV doing its job, i guess. Its just the blowing lip and tongue sound that makes it sound like crap. the exhaust sounds good too. :/
 

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Damn i know the feeli ng of being flat broke.... I suggest you just get a new head and fix those bent valves. Im not sure how to swap the head but im sure if you do enough reasearch on google you will find good info. If not on google buy a book that tells you everthing about your car.
 
J

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the timing mark for the crank is on the flywheel. its "above" the three ignition marks. its a white PLUS>>> + sign on the flywheel. if you cant find it, its like 15-20degrees after the ignigion mark. if pushing down on the flywheel teeth, or just rotating the engine the normal direction liek you should. youll see the mark after the ignition marks. its just a single makr that you line up with the pointer.

heads up. chiltons makes no differentiation between ignition and crank timing. atlaset as to what i remember
 

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Discussion Starter #11
no compression, oiled spark plugs :( B20A here i come, as soon as i can find one lol. is it me or are they become rarer?
 
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