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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
BA5's STS race car build thread... Now with more DSP!

SO IT BEGINS:

For several years now I have been wanting to build my prelude specifically to compete in the STS SCCA solo2 class. I had to put it off though because of school. But now I can finally begin.

The concept of the class was initially to bring young people to the sport. But because the class is relatively inexpensive to run in, and the cars are still fairly quick, it has grown to be an enormously popular class.

I'm starting with a complete engine rebuild. There are no internal modifications allowed, so everything inside will be OEM (or OEM type). I may loosen the bearing clearances in order to minimize internal friction, but they still have to be within spec.

I pulled an engine from the junkyard. It had 150k miles on it and it had spun rod bearing #3 (surprised?). I've finally stripped the block, and I've also ordered a new rod and pin to replace the ruined #3 ones. I'll be taking it to the machine shop tomorrow.




I also think I will keep a running tab on how much I've spent here.

$70 for junkyard block
$40 for head from preludepower member
$80 for hot tank and milling head
$100 for connecting rod and wrist pin from honda
$100 for new bearings
$200 for machine work on block
$250 for new pistons and rings
$30 on paint and cleaning supplies
$75 for new silicone hoses
$160 for new head gasket, head bolts, and oil pickup + misc
$575 for 4 new 16x7 rota slipstreams
$388 for 4 new 215-45-16 Falken Azenis 615
$150 for new valves
$290 for water pump, oil pump, t-belt tensioner + misc
$80 for new plug wires, t belt, and intake gasket

Let's see here. It's been while since I've updated this. I really didn't keep up with it at all. What else can I update this with?

I've kind of lost track of what all I spent on the engine. In the end I figured it cost me $2k-$3k.
$300 testing different springs
Sold the 16x7 rotas for $400 and bought 15x7.5 for $500.
A set of 225/45R15 Hankook Ventus RS-3's for $600.
$50 for the battery
$30 in power steering fluid trying to figure out what was wrong with it before I figured out it was the speed sensor, which I then paid $25 for a replacement from a member on the board.

I've now added on:

$500 for the 15x8 Konigs
$700 for the Hankook Racing tires
$180 for a Kirkey Racing Seat
$30 for brackets for it
$30 for a Summit Racing Seat
$100 for a high flow cat
$350 for new front wheel bearings and extended studs
$125 for adjustable cam gears and a lightly used clutch
$150 on Hawk Brake pads
$50 on new rotors
$who knows how much on repeatedly rebuilding and maintaining the damn thing :)

I suppose most of my budget actually goes to racing the thing! (entry fees and what have you.)
 

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whats wrong with the #2 main bearing journal in that pic?

if i can give some advice before you bring the block to the machine shop, using stock pistons is obviously required. if you get b21 oem pistons you'll have more displacement and higher compression. but you'll need to have the block bored and honed to match the larger b21 pistons. and the great thing about it, is its legal, cuz they are stock oem pistons. remember the threads discussing b21 pistons with b20 head? 10:1 compression.

for cams, use a b20 intake cam and a b21 exhaust cam. both are stock, and those are the best of each.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's actually just the bearing itself. Some of the bearings were rather worn or messed up, but all the journals themselves are just fine.

Alas, when I mean OEM, I mean as it came off the lot. Stock cams, pistons, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My guess is that I probably won't make it to nationals until 08. In fact this year I'm going to be looking for a co-drive.

For those of you who are interested, here is the link to the rules:

http://www.scca.org/Solo/Index.asp?IdS=00F23C-2FED8F0&x=050|070&~=

Click on solo rules pdf. I can do any modification allowed in Stock or STS. And if it doesn't say you can do it, then you can't do it. ;)
 

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hhmm.... after looking through the car listings in your class, I think the hard competition you may have is the BMW 318i, b/c or its HP and pretty descent handling, or MYABE a 2000 or so civic SI(again maybe). Good luck man, and when you get it going let us know how you fair!
 

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hhmm.... after looking through the car listings in your class, I think the hard competition you may have is the BMW 318i, b/c or its HP and pretty descent handling,
I'd hope the 318 would be of no concern at all to even a half driven Lude.
they are shite!

All the best with the build :emthup:

Do the parts have to be exactly what was originally fitted?
Just thinking along the lines of internals from a very similar model ... maybe a B20A7 !
 

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Yeah, wondering if my jdm b20a takes me out of that class?
Any motor not available in the US at the time of manufacture puts you in SM. Welcome aboard.

Depending on the seriousness of your region and your level of performance, it may not matter.
 

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Complete novice, trying to get my car in good enough shape and tires where I can autox? Shouldn't matter that much. Not that it would ever be more than a fun morning for me, anyway :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As far as the build goes, lets just rephrase it and say that there no tricks I can do. It's has to be STOCK. So this build probably just became a whole lot less interesting to a lot of people. I am, however, going to build a custom intake, header and exhaust. Also the suspension can get pretty crazy.

PREYLUDA, I've actually been down to the midga region once. I came in first in STS. I had been meaning to come down more often, but was finishing up school. I like the watermelon raceway.

And lastly, the car to beat is the 1989 Honda Civic Si. They've generally been at least a full second quicker at nationals that pretty much any other car thrown at them. People also did pretty well with the old impreza RS's, but they seem to have given up on them.
 

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If toyota can cheat....

"no comment"
 

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1.First thing im thinking...
Or not.


B-series (ie integra) cam gears (advance the bitch without adj gears)
Exactly the same no point.

2.legend injectors (87-89 from the sterling platform)
No point. if they were beneficial they'd still need a remap.

3.accord alternator 90 amps (i already have one ready for a b20a5)
No point. why would a higher amperage alternator make any difference to performance.

4.h23 rods(of course)
Debatable. But IMO no point with a stock engine build.

5.k&n filter swap from stock (in case they don't allow CAI or SRI)
A freer flowing filter is always a good idea. Not a lot to gain though.

6.b16 fuel regulator (so it acts like a high pressure reggy)
So it'll just overfuel. No point.

(this is probably good for an extra 20hp)
I very much doubt it.


Relocate all external parts that cause drag to the back seat and trunk (gas tank, exhaust cut a hole into the cabin, bend the midpipe tube through the passenger side and take out right tailight to feed through that hole and voila! drag removed!)
Again, a lot of time/effort for almost nothing in terms of real gains.
 

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It's has to be STOCK. So this build probably just became a whole lot less interesting to a lot of people. I am, however, going to build a custom intake, header and exhaust. Also the suspension can get pretty crazy.
Probably right for most folk here.
but you've just gained my interest tenfold.
Engine mods are always a second option for me. That's why I've hardly done any. Power isn't everything.
Setting it up to handle well will be the way to be competitive.
 

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Probably right for most folk here.
but you've just gained my interest tenfold.
Engine mods are always a second option for me. That's why I've hardly done any. Power isn't everything.
Setting it up to handle well will be the way to be competitive.


I gotta agree there, i've seen many threads on power, but none really on handling.

Not beyond "what springzorszez shoudl i used?" at least :p
 

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I tried looking for books about handling at borders, barnes+noble, and the library, and couldn't find anything modern, or was specific to tweaking a particular type of suspension which we don't have.

And they didn't go into any relevant detail. Stuff like 'if you want to increase oversteer on leaf springs, do this' but didn't go into any reason why, so I couldn't even learn stuff obliquely.

I'd love to learn more about all manner of car things, but I don't have the fabrication knowledge to know if my daydreaming ideas are practical, and most books I've found are outdated or irrelevant torwards fwd four cylinders :(

Eg, books on carb tuning hot rods-not entirely useful for me!
 

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"no comment"
 

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Hey, if you don't want positive input, shit, i can do that too:

Slap on some stickers, fuel additives, and chrome rims.

1.The point was that legend injectors are low impedence (like ours, don't need a remap b/c they only do 15% more flow) since BA5 is trying to get more power, he'll need a small pinch of power (if he should be one of the lucky owners that dont run rich) and well the b16 fuel regulator was to run more to the lean than to the rich (incase he is running rich)

2. coefficient of drag is everything, if you can only run oem. if you relocate the exhaust, you can the lower the car further, for better traction and lower Cd... even if he drops the drag to .30, that's means less work for the car to get moving.

3.Th 90 amp is nice in case he autox at nite, he won't have dim lights... but if everything electronic has enough power, then everything works better

You're right though about the cam gears,I forget that the aems for the b-series are for all applications... My bad

BA5 can also shave off .0015" off his cylynder heads for higher compression or get a thicker head gasket to increase displacement of the block. he can also dremel off unecessary bends inside the manifolds and deburr the cams and crankshaft for better movement. Hell if he relocates the gas tank to the center of the car, he could center the weight ratio to 50/50...

My whole point is that unless he gives up with the 3rd gen, and goes civic, BA5 should look towards alternatives that will not disqualify him, and actually change the characteristics of his Prelude. Granted my ideas are'nt gonna suck the doors off the competition, but if he can drop 25-sec off his total time, it's worth it.

And he has a sick setup as far as his suspension is concerned... he needs no help in that department...

BA5 did explain why 4ws doesnt help him, i just cant remember why.
For 1 a b16 FPR if it even fits will increase fuel pressure a bit which WILL make an engine run richer, legend injectors if there even any bigger wont be needed the stock injectors will be just fine for 150whp or so... how does a thicker head gasket increase displacement i would like to hear your explanation, obviously you have no idea what your talking about...

If you want to remain OEM parts doing what moto said is the best thing you can do... b21 pistons i would also convert to OBD1 if not already and run a chipped ECU with crome or something simular the ECU is still honda and they wont know its chipped...
 
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