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Discussion Starter #1
hi all,

i have a sneaking suspicion that my head gasket is blown on my turbo lude (impossible to bleed the cooling system and smokes straight after engine braking) but i knew it was going to happen sooner or later, boosting a 20 year old engine with 130 000 miles on it, so ill be building for big boost a little sooner than i thought.

i was planning on doing a b18c swap due to the fact that a friend of mine specialises in them and has built many of 600hp+ b18cs in his time however, they are not the cheapest engines to obtain, i am also saving for a trip to canada this comming year so the only choice for me is to build my jdm b20a, as this will save me the cost of a new enigne and sleeving the b18.

i am looking to build the engine as strong as possible for 25-30 psi boost potential, ive looked around and it seems as though our engines handle 400+ hp on an unmodified block (with forged pistons and rods)

can anyone give me some more pointers, on my list below, ?


fully rebuilt head
3 angle valve job,
h22 outer springs
turbo cams- (motoxxxman do you still do them?)
adjustable cam gears
iridium plugs
o-ringed head
copper head gasket (any good places in the usa that ship to get this?)
gates racing cam belt

o-ringed block
je/wiesco forged pistons
eagle h beam rods (websites tell me -same as h23)
race bearings (same as h23 also)
balanced crank (polised too)
baffled sump (kind of irrelevant to power making i guess)

this is for the core engine, i will get other things like a larger turbo, equal length turbo manifold ...etc as my budget allows,im going to build my own custom intake manifold with 80mm throttlebody considering it wont cost me alot and will eliminate any restrictions there if built right.

any help on the core engine side of things would be great as even though i have rebuilt stock engines in the past, im still a noob compared to some of you guys- im not shooting for any prtiular number but 600hp would be nice, at the end of the day i dont want to expect too much though, i just want it to be alot better than it is now!

thanks in advance people
 

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yes we use the same rods as h23. but eagle doesnt make rods for the h23. only things available for rods for us and h23's is crower and pauter.

im pretty sure www.raceeng.com will ship to you, and they sell the rods, pistons, bearings, and copper head gaskets for our engines.

i never did end up making custom turbo cams.
but the closest thing to what i would want made is the web cams grind #13 with a bit less valve overlap. you can reduce that overlap either by using adj cam gears and dialing it out manually, or you can have Web actually work it into the regrind by simply telling them to add 3-5 degrees of lobe seperation

everything else you've listed looks pretty good. and props to you if you follow through with it, as you will officially be the first to actually o-ring the head AND block, which is the proper way of doing it when using a copper HG lol.

also, why in the world would you want an 80mm TB? thats waaaaaaaay bigger than you need or want. it would literally be an on/off switch when trying to drive the car normally. like 3% throttle in that thing would be almost equal to 75% throttle on a stock TB. and to make 600hp, you wouldnt need anything larger than 70mm at the very largest. i'd bet you could do it with a 65mm TB even. and it'd actually be able to be driven
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well in that case ill go with anything between 65 and 70mm then,especially because my megasquirt setup isint configured to use a tps! (mapdot only)

as far as the cams go, if i had them add those 3-5 degrees of overlap in for me, would that mean that i would not need cam gears at all?
if so, great as its one less thing i have to spend money on!
so to clear things up for me,they take the stock camshafts and regrind to the spec that i nominate (in this case the grind 13 you mentioned)
again, if i can get it made locally, then ill get it done here using those specs, seeing your not doing them!


www.raceng looks like a good site, im going to try to get as much as i can locally, as the exchange rate is horrible for me at the moment, so ill enquire about that gasket at least.

also, im running a 5/16 (7.9mm) fuel hose, will i need to upsize or just get rid of the banjo fittings and keep it at that size? i plan to run a 700 hp bosch external pump
 

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for 600hp, you'll want like 1/2" for the fuel line with no banjo fittings

for the cams, just to clarify, you want to remove a few degrees of overlap, aka add a few degrees of lobe seperation.
the people at web really know what they're doing, so all you really have to do is tell them you want the grind #13, but that its for a turbo setup so you want 3-5 cam degrees less valve overlap. they'll hook you up
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks, i was just on the phone to my buddy, he recomends using copper rings with steel headgaskets!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
one other thing also, is it easy to get it balanced to rev to 8k without exploding?
 

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copper rings? haha, thats funny cuz it sounds like you're talking about piston rings, and that doesnt exist.
but noone makes steel head gaskets for us....
mls = multi layer steel
noone makes single layer or multi layer steel hg's for us.

but i think you heard him wrong, or he's a bit mixed up himself.
because you use steel 0-rings with a copper head gasket. not the other way around.

and no, it is not easy to balance it to rev to 8k. not only is it not easy, its not possible.
to rev higher would require a LOT of custom made internals for the block, as well as a custom made head.
things that limit our engines to 7200:
-rod-stroke ratio
-oil port size and shape in the main girdle
-valve spring strength
-valvetrain weight
-type of rocker arm
 

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Discussion Starter #8
perhaps i did hear him wrong, he has a very heavy asian accent, despite him living in new zealand for 25 years!
i will talk to him again today to confirm what he was saying, you realy can tell when someone does not know what they are talking about quite easily in these circumstances lol.
i think he was refering to using copper o-rings in the head and block with a steel headgasket?
perhaps i heard him wrong or dong understand, ill post the correct info when i can!

im going to find out if its possible for someone to make me a steel head gasket and if it works well on mine and if i get it for a good price, i might offer to advertise them to other people on this site if the manufacturers are interested!

as far as the high revving goes, its no big loss, its certainly not worth spending the money on to gain a further 800 rpm when one can just work on the power curve over the 4k- 7200 range, i was just curious to see if i could build an engine with a slightly longer power curve without boosting before 3500 rpm!
 
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